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I have a Fast track layout, operating with post war ZW's conventionally, with independent constant lighting for 0-72 conventional switches; all work well.

 

EXCEPT: I have ONE command control 0-72 switch. The rails have power. But the switch does not have power. I wired it up per the instructions.

 

What should I do/not do, to make it work?

 

Thanks in advance,  Mark

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Don't take these questions wrong, since a few imply maybe missing something in the instructions, but these are the first thoughts that come to mind:

 

1) Was it working and it died, or did it never work since you installed it?

 

2) When you mention constant lighting for the conventional switches, do you mean using auxiliary power for the lamps and also the switching action?  (so you can switch if there is no voltage to the track itself)  If so all the little jumpers were removed for these switches right?

 

3) Related to #2, are you sure the small metal plate used as a jumper is installed securely underneath the misbehaving switch?   (this implies the switch is not intending to use auxiliary power, though)  Your comment specifically calling out that the track has voltage and the switch does not work leads me to think you are trying not to use aux power for this TMCC switch.

 

-Dave

Dave,

 

Thank you for responding:

 

1. Switch has never worked and it is brand new.

 

2. Little jumpers removed. I use independent power to light and power the switches, that is, turn them if there is no train running, with the lamps on. Powered by a PW ZW throttle dedicated to the switches only.

 

3. I will investigate the small metal plate you refer to.

 

4. I will think through aux power, TMCC and what I am trying to wire. I did have TMCC, but removed it when we installed a new heating system and I had to dismantle about 1/3 of my layout. So, I bought more 0-72 switches (conventional, but one command). Am mulling over Legacy, upgrading my ZW's and, meanwhile, am redoing the layout. I thought it was wise to wire everything conventionally, before I returned to command control.

 

5. I believe the issue has something to do with the command switch obeying a command setting (whatever it is) and not responding to conventional control. I believe I have to get the misbehaving switch to speak the same language as in conventional.

 

Thanks for the insight. I will advise the results.

 

Best, 

 

Mark

Originally Posted by Balto:

What is the number of the O-72 command switch?

 

Are you operating it with the switch controller that comes with the switch or SC2 control?

-----------------------

 

The number is whatever Lionel assigned to it. I am running conventionally only.

 

I am using (or trying to) the switch controller that came with it.

 

 

 

Originally Posted by barrister2u:

3. I will investigate the small metal plate you refer to.

 

Sorry for mixing terminology.  Just to clarify, I meant the jumper underneath on the terminals for that comment too.

 

I've had one where the command board died, but still functioned as a traditional remote control switch.

 

If it's not in warranty anymore, you might carefully remove the underside (something like 10-14 screws if I recall).  The first thing I would check out would be if any of the harnesses are unplugged from the boards.

 

Do you have any block sections or isolated sections installed anywhere near this switch?  I'm fishing here and wondering if it's possible there is not a good ground via the rails.  (but if that was the case, you wouldn't  see the lantern work either - it sounds like the lantern is functional)  Scratch that, I just re-read and saw you say the rails have power.

 

Have you tried manually changing the position by turning the lantern to confirm the switch doesn't work starting from either setting, or have you just left it where it started at this point?

 

-Dave

Originally Posted by barrister2u:

Dave,

 

Thank you for responding:

 

1. Switch has never worked and it is brand new.

 

snip

 

Best, 

 

Mark

There was a thread on this...wrong wire connections from the factory. There is a fix, flipping the position of two wires. I don't know the details.

Originally Posted by cjack:
Originally Posted by barrister2u:

Dave,

 

Thank you for responding:

 

1. Switch has never worked and it is brand new.

 

snip

 

Best, 

 

Mark

There was a thread on this...wrong wire connections from the factory. There is a fix, flipping the position of two wires. I don't know the details.

 

 

I will check this out.

 

Thanks,  Mark

I went through some of the posts on the Yahoo FT group and it appears two wires are crossed incorrectly from the factory.

 

I posted, asking which two wires. The post is pending, meaning Mike Spanier has to approve. It is 3.37 AM and he is probably doing something else right now.

 

It appears to be an easy fix and, if so, I will try. However, because it is a new switch, if it involves opening up those 14+/- screws, I will return it to Lionel.

 

Mark

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