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Have a figure 8 of FasTrack on the floor from my son's Horseshoe Curve set.  I was running a train on it when I noticed a buzzing sound.  At first I thought it was the locomotive I had out as I had just finished repairing it and was testing it, but when the loco moved, the buzzing stayed in the same place.  I wiggled the track and it went away.  I took the loco off and lubed it since it seemed to be repaired and put it back on the track to program it (It's PS-1.).  I turned the power up and got a loud buzzing from the track, and the loco acted like there was no power at all.  Wiggled the track and buzzing stopped and loco came to life.  Needless to say trying to get to feature 40 took a while with the track issues.  The transformer never acted like it was getting a short, but when the track buzzed, the loco acted like there was no power.  Has anyone had this problem with FasTrack or any other track before?  It's my 1st time seeing it.  But then this has been the worst looking FasTrack I have ever seen being my 4th RTR set with it, and I've bought a lot on the bay from split RTR sets and some new from my LHS.

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I have found this with poor pin connections. I just bend the offending pin with pliers to give a more positive connection (more friction to the sides of the tubular track) and the problem goes away. A track signal test with the engine can also help find poor rail joint connections, as the DCS signal may drop at the same point. I have improved signal strength from 3-4 to 9-10 by improving the pin connection.

 

Hope this helps: Joe K

Originally Posted by sinclair:

Guess I'm going to take a pair of pliers to it tonight it sounds like.  Thanks.

When I "fix" fastrack connections I insert just the tips of the "male" ends. Then crimp the "hollow"/female rail just past where the tips are. Then fully connect track.

 

This helps prevent "overcrimping" and not being able to connect the track.

Last edited by RickO

A handy tool that I've found, to have for crimping track joints is a small set of "end nippers." About 4-6" in length, just enough to give a good crimp, not so large that you've got enough leverage to chomp the rail right off!

 

You just put the cutting surfaces on each side of the rail, below the pin on tubular, about in the middle on fastrack, and give a good squeeze.

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