Fastrack Dwarf Signal Activation

Mth's version of 153 contactor??

IMO mth version works better than Lionels..

What dwarf signal do you have?  Exactly how are you using it?  You can use insulated tracks with Fastrack the same way you do with any other track system, so you can use something like my 30100 Insulated Track Signal Driver, or any other insulated track control relay.  In the past I've sold kits to build these for less than the assembled version.

The cheap fix is to isolate one of rhe outside rails.  It is a little more work with FT than tubular track.  You can determine how long you want the block.  I use a cheap relay (about $2 on eBay) to control changing the signal.  You can also get relays with a delay function (about $6).

Actually, it's less work with Fastrack, all you have to do is remove the cross links and you have insulated tracks.  With tubular track you either kludge some insulators under an outside rail or you buy insulated track sections.  You also have the purchase option with Fastrack.  I like the relay to have some bounce protection so you don't get a blinking light when you're entering or leaving the insulated track section.

This is not Fastrack.  Gargrave and Ross switches, Gargraves track.   The dwarf lights are activated by DZ 1008 relays associated with DZ 1000 switch motors.

Dwarf light (5) and (6) wired.

DZ 1008 relay mounted under the table.   Square black boxes marked (3) and (4) that power dwarf light (3) and (4) also pictured.

Mike CT posted:

This is not Fastrack.  Gargrave and Ross switches, Gargraves track.   The dwarf lights are activated by DZ 1008 relays associated with DZ 1000 switch motors.

No offense Mike, but this has little to do with the OP's query since he does use Fastrack, and doubtless doesn't use the DZ-1000 switch machines.

Here's a video on making an insulated FasTrack section. insulated track section

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Actually, it's less work with Fastrack, all you have to do is remove the cross links and you have insulated tracks.  

And pull up the rail by bending the tabs to remove the track pins....  

Not real difficult though...

Why are you removing the track pins?  At the ends of the insulated rail section, you just chop the rail with a Dremel cutoff wheel.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Why are you removing the track pins?  At the ends of the insulated rail section, you just chop the rail with a Dremel cutoff wheel.

Still can make contact even if you cut the pin off. I usually take the pin out and file the rail down a little bit or use a Dremel to grind it down a bit so there's a decisive Gap between the rails. No risk of electrical contact.

These folks make more affordable Infra red detectors:  http://www.azatrax.com

Thanks for all of the replies! My dwarf signals are MPC era ones. 

Tfabrizio posted:

Thanks for all of the replies! My dwarf signals are MPC era ones. 

The dwarf lights I pictured above, are also MPC era.   A relay may be required.  IMO. Dwarf lights can be associated with switch position. (green) through and (red) out, as wired above.  I have Atlas dwarf lights on my layout, a bit different they are also wired to the switch motors. 

Another small stand Switch indicator.  These indicators are mechanically connected to the Atlas switch motors and turn when the switch motor is thrown.   There is a small light in the yellow head, unfortunately, wired for 12 volts, was a bit much, and replacement is difficult.

if you don't want to modify track, the 5" 6-12060 has cuts in the rails and jumper wires underneath that you can remove to create isolated rails. Any track in between two of them will be the trigger track.

The video of the modification is not that difficult, as you can see. I prefer removing the pins. Then, it can be returned to a regular track again if needed. A curve can be used, too.

I would recommend powering the signals from the accessory terminal of the transformer. Then, use the outside rail to connect the common and light them when a train occupies the trigger section.

Some automotive stores carry .110 female quick disconnect terminals (crimp) that fit the FasTrack tabs underneath. If not one near you, you can find them on eBay. Soldering is the other option.

Moonman posted:

if you don't want to modify track, the 5" 6-12060 has cuts in the rails and jumper wires underneath that you can remove to create isolated rails. Any track in between two of them will be the trigger track.

The video of the modification is not that difficult, as you can see. I prefer removing the pins. Then, it can be returned to a regular track again if needed. A curve can be used, too.

I would recommend powering the signals from the accessory terminal of the transformer. Then, use the outside rail to connect the common and light them when a train occupies the trigger section.

Some automotive stores carry .110 female quick disconnect terminals (crimp) that fit the FasTrack tabs underneath. If not one near you, you can find them on eBay. Soldering is the other option.

Thanks! One more question, since the dwarf signal is not just an on/off accessory, how does the insulated track work? I can understand the concept of power being applied once the train rolls on to the insulated section, but I can't wrap my mind around how the light will change from red to green. 

Sorry for the newbie questions!

Is this signal that you have 6-12883?

Instructions here

The reason I mentioned the 30100 Insulated Track Signal Driver is that you do need a SPDT set of contacts at a minimum and a way to power the lights when the insulated section is not occupied.  Here's a simple diagram that depicts using track power for the signal.

Moonman posted:

Is this signal that you have 6-12883?

Yes. That's the one