Fastrack o72 LH switch continuity issue - need help

Solder the folded tab connections internally. I realize you are saying, you mean I have to open every switch, make these mods, solder these joints- YES.

@Vernon Barry posted:

A known issue is the folded tab connections inside almost every fastrack item. This goes back to the days of the older Lionel Tubular switches, those folded tab connections are best soldered to ensure good electrical contact VS hoping, praying that the limited pressure from a bent tab and stamped metal plates makes an electrical contact- let alone carries multiple Amps of track power.

Bulletproofing switches 101.

While this picture is from a damaged switch from mislabeled aux power wiring, the folded tabs of the ground plate at the end of the switch are seen in this photo as stock. They depend on that crimp of the folded tab making contact and over time that can and does tend to loosen and fail.

The center rail follows a more critical path with several in series contacts and plates to get from one end of the switch to the other.

This just shows some of them in the center of the switch

Again, not completely surprised on a stock switch without any "bulletproofing" soldering modifications to see it fail after passing likely high current current during a typical derailment.

Further, there are more details in this topic link https://ogrforum.com/topic/162475945159561503

Please read all those posts and pictures- a lot of info and photos are in that topic.

I’ll get to work and see if this fixes it, Thanks!

I soldered the areas needed and now have power at entry and through the through and spur.  The led light and remote still not working but on a spur.  Thanks for your help!

Does the turnout automatically change position (anti-derail feature) if you roll a car into it from the direction opposite where the swivel rails are oriented?

@Mrtbig posted:

I soldered the areas needed and now have power at entry and through the through and spur.  The led light and remote still not working but on a spur.  Thanks for your help!

Important- what is your power source? I'm asking because Lionechief sets come with a DC wall pack. The Switches require AC for both indicators to work (red and green).

Steve - No it is not working.

Vernon - Lionel 180 watt brick.

Thanks

If this switch was working and then suddenly stopped, the most likely causes are either:

1. Burned up 2 Ohm 1/4 Watt resistor ( acts as inline fuse ) it's covered in black heat shrink.
2. Or a bad component on the control board.

Here's a link to one topic showing/discussing the resistor.

If it's the Motor Control Board, EDIT you may have to call Lionel for the part.  Last time I checked the boards (part # 691-TRC4 A00) were available on their Customer service website for around $25, but I'm not finding them at the moment.  See next post for revised part info.

After a little more digging, I found the Motor Control Board.  It seems they have revised the part number, but is still listed as a replacement for the older boards as well as the newer ones.

Here's the Link: > 691-TRC4-A01