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I have a number of Fastrack CC Remote switches on the layout I'm building. I find I'll need to extend the wire whip to the remote to be able to have the controler at the control station. what gauge wire do I need? I will be providing constanr 14v to each switch, so I just need to extend the switch controler wire.

I was loocking at 4 conductor telephone wire, but only fine it in 26Awg.

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Try to get 4 conductor telephone wire with the same color individual wires as in the controller (red, yellow, green and black).

If you're just extending the remote controller wire and want to avoid having to disconnect and then reconnect the wires at the controller (which can be a pita), just cut the existing wire in the middle; cut a length of new wire you need to insert; cut and strip all 4 ends and then reconnect (same color to same color) using connectors (like Wago's or jelly bean connectors).

A little more work, but eliminates any issues with re-wiring the remote controller.

It may be the same stuff, but I bought wire designated for home security systems. A large spool of it was fairly cheap. It has four solid conductors with colors coordinating with the OEM switch wire. I never opened the switch controllers. Instead, I simply removed the OEM wire at the switch’s terminal block and wired in one end of the extension into the terminal block.  Thereafter, I tied the OEM wire to the opposite end of the extension. That way, I didn’t need to cut the OEM wire. This was helpful when I removed the switches and sold them off - it was easy to remove the extensions and wire them back to their original configuration.

Yes sir..... that's my plan too.  Remove controler wires from the switch, replace with corresponding colors in telephone wire, run the replacement whip to a terminal block at a good location, and attach the correspondng colors from the controller whip.  Done....

Also running dedicate 14v power to the switch. Don't think I need the ground as the ground can return through the track power feeds. I'm running a PW-ZW, I found all the 'U' (common) terminals are in phase already.

Thanks for your reponse confirming my intent, and have a great holiday seaon with trains - Tony

@Tman129 posted:

...replace with corresponding colors in telephone wire, run the replacement whip to a terminal block at a good location, and attach the correspondng colors from the controller whip

....Don't think I need the ground as the ground can return through the track power feeds. ..

The black controller wire does not need to be extended from the switch either, make that connection at the control panel to a nearby common layout ground. As well, the RSC wire is only needed if you want position indication.

Also, be aware, if wiring aux power for the first time to new to you Fastrack switches, many were manufactured with the internal terminal order incorrect compared to the stamped labels on the cover and the manual. Meaning- if you connect to what you think is aux power in, it might be wired to the track 3rd rail.

Check before installing on the layout after removing the track power jumper. Being truthful, you really show just go all the way if you have them open and address the folded tab electrical contacts too. https://ogrforum.com/...5#168247930427190045

Yes, it means open the back cover, yes, all the screws, yes, every switch, even if new.

I bought 13 from different dealers and all 13 were miswired. That's 100% failure rate.

Again, multi step fix:

#1 correct and inspect terminal wiring order

#2 solder critical folded tab electrical connections- the back cover is off anyway.

#3 before installing the metal cover back, ensure it cannot short to the poking up solder joints and wires of the terminals- even better add preventative insulation to prevent any short rather than depending on an air gap.

It's your time your effort, and a soldering iron and some insulating tape, but doing it up front, before installing the switch, or do it later, when the problems kick in, now it's buried and has scenery around it on a hard to reach area of the layout.

@Tman129 posted:

All good points....
How will I know if it's wired wrong?  When it smokes from the short between your Aux power and the track 3rd rail.

do you have any photo's of what's wrong and what's right?

Back to the links I previously provided https://ogrforum.com/...5#168247930427190045

Highly suggest you follow the standard multi point "bulletproofing" modifications and inspection on any fastrack switch before installing.

As seen here https://ogrforum.com/...1#163461606334295091

and here https://ogrforum.com/...8#162053334063720688

Folded tabs- recommend soldering all of these type of connections

Again, specifically there EVEN is a PDF link below previously posted to the forum describing the out of order compared to labeling terminals. https://ogrforum.com/...520Issue%2520Fix.pdf

Also, again, specifically the KNOWN possible problem of out of order (mismatched) compared to the stamped labels on the cover.

Thanks to @gunrunnerjohn who posted this https://ogrforum.com/...57#82945629914850757

https://ogrforum.com/...520Issue%2520Fix.pdf

And when you get it wrong

Last edited by Vernon Barry

Again, sorry in the direction this has turned. You asked what on the surface would/could/should be simple question and answer.

Due to defects in manufacturing and quality control, as well as some manufacturing problems where the folded tab electrical connections are known to possibly become a problem over time and usage, your simple request to use aux power, and wire up some switches in a more permanent layout turned into a fiasco.

I do not wish this upon anyone.

Last edited by Vernon Barry

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