Fastrack vs Realtrax

You are opening a pandora's box that you don't want to open!  Ha ha, just kidding.  

 

The consensus on this forum so far seems to be that Fastrack is by far superior to the MTH product.  I too was in your position years ago and asked the same thing and the overwhelming answer was FASTRACK and do not go with MTH as it is unreliable unless nailed down in perfect alignment.  

 

MTH track and Lionel track is compatible with anything from MTH, Lionel, Weaver, RMT, 3rd-Rail, etc.....  You do not need to run certain trains on certain manufacturer's track.  I run almost all MTH on Lionel track.

 

Plus the switches are bulletproof I hear and I must say so far my large layout is problem free!

 

http://peytonoriginal.com/trains.htm

I like my Fastrack.  Only draw back is the price when you need a lot of small fitter pieces or O84 curves.

 

Realtrax should come with a free box of Band Aids.

I love MTH track as it does not rust in our damp climate. James

One of the things that I think sets us apart is that we swap track out of sets for customers - whichever track system you have or want - okay by us.....

 

We also pull track out of sets for people that don't need it.....

Ok, so it's not just me.  Everything else in the MTH inventory seems to be top of the line.  Wonder why the track is not.

I disagree that MTH Realtrak is not as good! Once you know how to assemble and dis-assemble properly, it works very well. I like solid track, which is quieter and more robust than tubular. Many use sectional track systems for temporary layouts. Not me mine has been a fixture for 10+ years. 

So Joe H. occasionally gets a "boo-boo", he probably wants the latest spiderman band-aid.

I think the thing to remember with picking a track to use on your layout is it solely comes down to YOUR preference. 

 

No one here can tell you what to buy so I generally would suggest trying out both and comparing their performance. I do think it is strange how Realtrak segments do not align well but as others have said the solid rail feature is really a big plus. So, like I said, it solely comes down to performance and maybe your aesthetic tastes. 

 

As for me, I have used both and found Fastrack to be much more reliable even though it is noisey on certain surfaces. Additionally, Fastrack looks, to my eyes, more realistic than Realtraks even though both are not perfectly prototypical. 

Garrett76,

    I run both, however FasTrack is my track of choice for the major part of my layouts.

Now RealTrax does have some serious benefits, especially as James indicated for anyone living in a humid climate, no rust at all, no matter how long the track is down, and once set up correctly and screwed down, it runs perfectly, and portrays Legacy and DCS signals perfectly.  However that is where the benefit ends. RealTrax Switches do not accommodate some Tin Plate Trains at all.   FasTrack on the other hand is easy to assemble & disassemble, cuts perfectly with the Rockwell X2 Portable Saw, and the new low voltage, wireless Command Control Switches, accommodate all different kinds of trains, including Tin Plate, and operate from the Cab2 or Cab1 remote control and are bullet proof stuff, and now come in 031 thru 072, along with 072Y.  The only trouble with the FT CC Switches that I can find, is the LED track side light, is not replaceable by the owner operator, when it goes bad.  Lionel must due the LED replacement at it's repair shop.  Further FasTrack transitions with Atlas O Industrial Rail seamlessly.  If you want to run Conventional Tubular with it, FT transitions perfectly also, even with the older 072/711 switches. FT Portrays both Legacy and DCS signal perfectly also.   Lots and lots of plusses from FT engineering.  I find using MTH RealTrax limits my layout design and running way to much, I do use it for the inner most circle, Lionel 031 FasTrack will not run inside Lionel 036 FasTrack, the FT road bed makes this impossible.  However the 031 RealTrax works perfectly.  Run both for the best results.  Further 027 Tubular will run inside the 031 RealTrax, if you want to engineer & run in this manner also.

Hope this helps a might.

PCRR/Dave

 

 

I use Fastrack, do have a little problem with rust but the track is great to work with.

 

Brent

My layout is about 25 X 14 in size.  My mainline is FT.  All of my O72 switches are FT.  My sidings are MTH.  Although FT is easier to work with, there are some qualities that I think MTH does better.

1) Better uncoupling track sections

2) Sturdier lit bumpers

3) Lit terminal sections that I like when powering a siding

MTH also gives me a different look for my sidings

I am very happy with FT and it has held up well and performs next to flawlessly.

I bought some used Fastrack 10" straights that have a little rust on the sides of the rail.  When you turn the track over there are little holes where the other track has little molded rectangles.  A quick rub with a nylon scrubber and some WD40 took care of it.

The primary difference that I see are the switches. The RealTrax are crude compared to FasTrack.

Other than that, I think lock-ons look dumb. But, they both run trains.

Video1

Video2

 

Here are a couple of links to YouTube videos comparing the two track systems. As it stands today, I believe that both now have hollow rails. My preference has always been FasTrack over RealTrax when it comes to frequent assembly/disassembly. 

Unfortunately Realtrax is no long made with solid rail.  MTH with to a shaped tubular rail a few years ago.

 

Stuart

 

 

It is a pain in the Butt to hook up the MTH Realtrax. I use the Fastrack with a DCS Z-1000 and the DCS Commander.

I really like the solid "t" rail design of MTH realtrax over the shiny, oval-top tubular fastrack.  It kind of bugs me that you can see the reflection of the ties along the sides of the rails on fastrack.  Never had a problem with alignment between sections of realtrack.   

Realtrax has a tubular profile nowadays, so the "T" rail design is no more.  However, you can still get Atlas track with solid rails.

 

I have both on my layout.   I have one long Fastrack line and 3 Realtrax lines.  Lionel is much easier to assemble.  However; it is LOUD compared to the Realtrax system.   I sometimes find the noise irritating and shutdown my outside line.   With that said, it's also a conventional line and the Realtrax lines are DCS.   It could be that the speed control of the DCS system makes me think it's much quieter than the Fastrack system. 

Panther97,

   If you use the right noise suppression set up, they end up making about the same amount of muffled noise, lots of different ways to deaden the noise factor with both kinds of track.  Guns is also correct the newer RealTrax is no longer solid rail, I own both types of RealTrax, and I do like the solid rail better.  My inside loop is completely solid rail and I have never had any problem with it, course it stays assembled and screwed down, all the time, it's definitely not the kind track to take up and down all the time, the electrical tabs get damaged to easily.  Once set up and screwed down correctly, all my different trains run smooth as glass on it, when no MTH switches are involved.  

 

PCRR/Dave

 What is the recommended noise suppression setup for Fastrack?  I have an OSB type of material under it.   It did the job with the Realtrax.  I'm game to try something else with the Fasttrack.   I like the solid rail as well.  Do not try to combine the solid and hollow rail with Realtrax.  That doesn't work well.

Panther97,

    No I did not try to combine the solid and tubular RealTrax, had enough to make the inner oval with the solid.  I understand they do not match all that well.

 

The noise suppression I use is the Block Sound Suppression Ceiling Tile on top of my 3/4 Ply platform, with a piece of inside outside carpet over the tile, so the platform looks like a child like wonderland.  It kills the rail sound so dead that my wife ask me not use the building technique on the upper parts of my multi-level layout, she actually likes to hear the trains run at Christmas time, in our living room.  I got my old Sound Suppression Block tile for free out of an old building that was being torn down long ago, however Lowes now sells a similar product.

PCRR/Dave

Good idea.   I have indoor/outdoor carpet  on top of the OSB as well.  There doesn't seem to be an issue with Realtrax.  I'm actually expanding the layout.  I'll try out the suppression block on the new section.  Thanks for the tip.

Panther97,

    If you can re-engineer your entire layout with the Suppression block tile under the full layout you will see a big difference in the noise level thru out your layout.  Just adding on may not make as big a difference as you would like to hear.  Good luck with your expansion project.

PCRR/Dave

Agreed.  I'd like to try it out on the new section before I expand into the existing layout.   I actually noticed the materials at Lowes in the past.  It crossed my  mind but didn't know if it would work. 

Fastrack for days...

Panther97,

   If you are planning a fairly large addition to your layout, then you will definitely hear a big difference as the trains runs the new addition that has the sound suppression block tile.  If the addition is just a small piece, the effect will be minimal.

PCRR/Dave

 My addition is going to be 8x8.

The funny thing is that in its RTR Catalog, MTH still says that RealTrax has a T-Rail.  Each year when I pick up the new RTR Catalog, I always take a glance to see if they've changed it, and they never do.  Here is the 2015 catalog and scroll down to Page 64 under "Realistic"

 

http://mthtrains.com/sites/default/files/2015ortr.pdf

 

 

MTH's editing department needs to proof read better. 

I believe today's MTH Realtrax hollow rail is still T shaped.....well kind of...The formed T rail is not very well done, at least in the RTR sets I purchased. The hollow track was sold, did not like it. I did like the old MTH solid track and looks, it can be wired for 2R too. I tried FT and just did not like the shape of the rail, but I did not have any electrical connections issues as I did with MTH RT....

 

Best thing, try a loop of each and make up your own mind!

 

In all of the gauges I have played with, sectional track systems have quirks that need delousing. Real Trax, Fastrack, Atlas, Tinplate and the rest are no exceptions. There is no one sectional track system that is ideal!

 

Perhaps the best track system for a temporary floor layout is tinplate.

I've had very good results using Fastrack for our floor layouts. The connects have always been solid and I can usually run a fairly large layout with just a single power drop.

It does seem like some of the recent production runs of FT have had some electrical issues but most of my inventory is a few years old.

The FT switches are tough to beat for smooth operation and reliability. 

The biggest drawback to FT is the rigid nature of it and how "geometric" it is compared to hand laid track that usually has more soft, gradual, organic curves. As wider radius sections become available, this shouldn't be as much of an issue.

I'm planning on building a fully scenic'd, hi-rail layout with FT in the coming year. Really want to see how realistic it can look.

 

Fastrack. A far better design for assembly and continuity.

Ill throw in my opinion, for what it is worth.  I use all Fastrack 072 switches with Lionel O tubular track.  Yes, it did cost a hefty price to replace all of my switches with Fastrack switches, but they just work much better especially with newer locomotives.  as for the tubular track, well it works great for me.  I make my own cross ties and ballast it and it looks good.  I am curious about the noise suppression?  I like the noise, trains make a lot of noise in real life...right?

I'm using Fastrack on my layout with O-36 curves except 2 places where I'm using Realtrax O-31 curves inside the Fastrack curves using the Fastrack Transition piece combined with the Realtrax Adapter piece to connect together.  I use 1/2" thick black soft foam with 1/2" overhang both sides of track. I foam glue the foam to the green matting on the layout or painted plywood on elevated sections and foam glue the track to the top of the foam. No screws used to hold track down reduces the Fastrack rumble a lot. Pleased with the results so far as I slowly remodel the layout. Fastrack should had made an O-27 instead of O-31 so it would had fit inside the O-36 curve track. I totally prefer Fastrack over the Realtrax.

I have boxes of Fastrack that came with sets and the only use I have for them is for display shelves otherwise it stays in a large box unused.

 

I was most concerned about noise and reliable track power signal and price.

So I used mostly Gargraves comes in very long sections even the curves, very quiet on a soft or sound deadening base very low track noise very good conductivity half the price of Fastrack and does not rust if you get the Stainless steel track.

 

I also picked up some used Atlas got a deal on it and it works very well, but the curves are in shorter sections and connections not as good as Gargraves.

 

If you are doing a home permanent layout then it is very easy to ballast any of the above. Both are reliable and easy to work with.

 

I do a lot of shows with big set up on carpet. Several loops of track.

I have found what works best for me for very easy connections, very low noise, very reliable connections and track that stays clean is the old K-Line Super snap track, or same track with pins.  You can still find some in some stores or used. The turnouts work very well, also have some on the home layout.

This track is now made by Ready made trains;

http://www.readymadetoys.com/susntruma520.html

 

Excellent track have used it for many years doing several set ups each year, reliable good connections and most importantly low noise.

 

Personally I have tried and used Fastrack, it is far far more noisy then anything else on the market and the most expensive. I took a section apart to try to see if I could cut the noise it has little plastic tabs that stick up and hold the rail in position so there is no practical way to fill the dead space where most of the noise is. The track works like an amplifier with a hollow empty space between the metal rail and plastic road bed with small holes underneath. It is just like a speaker box amplifying the sound. There is nothing you can do to make this part of the track more quiet.

I have tried it on carpet filling in underneath etc.

 

I also found at shows with a larger set up the connections did not always stay together tight the plastic tabs wear out loose tension when connected and reconnected. I always had problems with track dead spots when running long trains at shows with the above problems.

The Fastrack rusts / pits easy, seems to pickup more dirt and need cleaning more then any other track I have and I have not had good luck with the track ends staying aligned in some cases. As for looks it does have a good looking base but the oval shaped rail to me looks very toyish compared to most other brands especially Atlas and Gargraves that have a much more scale appearance.

 

I know a lot of people like it but it is up to you try it see what works best for you.

If  you can handle the noise and extra cost go for it.

 

I recall going to various train show and some I have seen have the Fastrack screwed to the plywood. In all cases all you hear is the roar of the track noise it drowns out all the sound of engines, bells whistles etc.

 

You could sell any Fastrack you have to purchase something else at a lesser price.