FASTRAK UN COUPLING SECTION

Sure you can solder.

Pretty much.

I would cut the track with a circular cutting wheel and a Dremel Tool, trying to cut as straight as possible.

I think you have it figured out.  Are you cutting the track with a Dremel or how?  The plastic roadbed can be problematic, but maybe that was just me.  I see no reason why it won't work.  Be careful with those Fastrack uncoupling tracks.  If you are using the button provided, they stick, and when they stick and you don't notice it, your uncoupling track melts all around it.  And then you will be cutting it out again, a soldered joint, ... I can hear the expletives now.  Best to wire it to an OTC and make it Cab operated only.  

William,I will use a 4 inch angle grinder with a thin cut off wheel.A buddy of mine said to use a door bell switch for the uncoupling section.They don't stick and are not as clunky.I will let you guys know how I make out.Thanks,Nick

I'm probably late, but I have been thinking about your project. If you just cut the pins on the Fastrack on one end of where you need the UCS it might make less of a mess. I have powered a siding with one by cutting the black wire and tying into that with a power wire. It takes the place of a 1 3/8 section to make the block. If you cut the pins you already have the break where you want it and don't have to solder rails. You can supply power and ground through the hole you make for the uncoupler. I changed all my buttons to a push button 10A from an auto parts store; mount easy through a 1/2" hole. I just think this might be easier than cutting the roadbed and also not be so hard to mate the new track sections, as you will still have mating pins on one end. Let us know how you make out.

William 1 posted:

I think you have it figured out.  Are you cutting the track with a Dremel or how?  The plastic roadbed can be problematic, but maybe that was just me.  I see no reason why it won't work.  Be careful with those Fastrack uncoupling tracks.  If you are using the button provided, they stick, and when they stick and you don't notice it, your uncoupling track melts all around it.  And then you will be cutting it out again, a soldered joint, ... I can hear the expletives now.  Best to wire it to an OTC and make it Cab operated only.  

Been there. My button stuck and melted the plastic around the magnet before I realized what was happening. I have a new one in place. I haven't had any problems yet.

I'd be taking the track out. Only 3 or 4 -10" should let you get it out. Try it with some extras on the side to see how many you need to liberate a piece and put uncoupler and five back in.

If you are going to do surgery, you'll need to solder the rails as you won't be able get any pins in there.

I think the angle grinder is going to make a mess. A Zona razor saw or hack saw will work ok. I make the custom sized track sections with a hack saw.

If the surroundings are tight, a Dremel sized tool is better suited. A harbor freight deal is cheap enough.

You'll being doing the same process as a custom track. Taking out a few inches than replacing it.

Just my 2¢...

Take some videos of this action

Thanks Carl.Nick

Did you attack it yet?