FastTrack Switch Control with Toggle

I believe Red is power and Black and Green control throw.  Yellow is for the light.

 

Hope that helps a bit.

 

C

Toggle replacing regular controller or in addition? Anything you probably need to know is on page 6 of: http://www.lionel.com/media/se...s/57056712045250.pdf --Joe

Thank guys.  Would you believe that I have 5 of the O-72 remotes, and the manual I was looking at was missing that little box telling you what color was for what?

 

So it looks like, to me, that Black is the return (ground) while Red/Green are hot and control the throw (Red=curve, Green=straight) and the yellow powers the light.  Anyone know what kind of power to toss through yellow?  I'll open up the switch when I get a moment and see.

 

Thanks for the link!  (I added the notes to my manual so I won't lose them).

 

-John

 

I'm guessing 5 volts, though I've never thought to measure one.  I'd set the switch on the bench upside down, connect a transformer to it, and measure the output from the light power terminal to common.

You have the wiring colors correct. The voltage is 4.5 volts DC.

You do not add 4.5 volts to the circuit. When the switch is powered the circuit will send either 4.5 volts negative or positive between yellow and black depending on the way the switch is thrown.

Denny

That's right. Momentary contact from red to black for turn, or green to black for thru. You can light an led with a resistor in series with the yellow wire, and black is the common for that. The switch sends + 5 or so for the green led, and - 5 or so for the red led. 

As long as we are adding details:

 

You can purchase 5 MM Red/Green BiPolar LEDs:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Di...;hash=item3f0fe84a86

 

connect LED Positive to black

connect LED Negative to 470 ohm resister and then to yellow

 

(the resistor can be in series to either side of the LED)

 

Denny

Since the switch presents you with positive and negative voltages, you really want a 2-wire bi-color LED and a resistor for this task.  For 5 volts, you can use anything from around 220 and up for a resistor value.

Good catch gunrunnerjohn,

The ebay listing was for three lead instead of two. Duh, that is what happens when I rush.

Try this listing instead:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-BIP...;hash=item53eba60b6d

 

 

Looks a lot better for the task.

Thanks for all the help on this one guys!  Just gonna paraphrase so I make sure I understand.

 

The yellow wire supplies roughly 5V (maybe 4.5V) of DC (+ green, - red) to power a light with - with the return being black (same black used for the red/greed wire return).  A bipolar LED would be best, with the appropriate sized resistor wired in series between the yellow and black wires?

 

Thanks again!  Once I get the blocks wired up (I run conventional) getting the switches wired is the second step.  :-)

 

-John

 

Sounds right, and I'd recommend you flop a Fastrack switch on the bench and just connect a resistor and a bi-color LED between yellow and black and see if it works.   FWIW, it worked for me here, just tested it to make sure we didn't have something wrong.

Thanks John,

 

It will probably be a little while before I have the right parts to try it out - I need power to the tracks and my taxes done first.  But at least I know what I need to do now.

 

-John

 

A resistor and a bi-color LED are all you need for each of the indicators.

Did I miss something? Should this be a MOMENTARY contact toggle switch?

 

Swav

clrctrains.com

You bet, it sure should.

Another example of how we all know too much. We, (all of the above responders), know that it should be a momentary contact toggle switch. Yet the word momentary only appears once above. The original poster was still in the blind because everyone else assumed.

 

Like the story of phone tech support about the computer not starting up correctly. Finally the key question, "is it plugged in", met by silence.

 

Actually the original poster specified that he was going to use a momentary switch. He stated it in this way (ON)-OFF-(ON). Of course, doesn't hurt to re-mention it from time to time for those who might have missed it.

If the original poster sends me an email with his contact info I would be willing to send a couple of momentary switches, leds, and resistors to experiment with, gratis.

 

Cheers

Denny

Okay, I have been working with the numbers and have a few followup questions - some have quoted 4.5V or 5.0V as the voltage for the LED circuit on the switch.  I went through Jameco and found a bipolar/bicolor LED, id 94553 (green/red) (size T1), Volt is 2.6V, 30mA for Green, 15mA for Red.  If I run the numbers, I would need the following resistors:

 

Green: 4.5V :: (4.5-2.6)/0.030 = 63 ohm

Red: 4.5V :: (4.5-2.6)/0.015 = 127 ohm

 

Green: 5.0V :: (5.0-2.6)/0.030 = 80 ohm

Red: 5.0V :: (5.0-2.6)/0.015 = 160 ohm

 

So I would think that a 100 ohm resistor should probably be adequate to the task.  But other posters have mentioned resistors in the 200 to 400 range above.  So, an I messing up my math or formula above?

 

Thanks!

 

-John

 

Hello John,

 

I use the bipolar 5mm LEDs and insert a 480 ohm resistor in the circuit. I do this as I do not want a super bright LED in my panel. Each of my panels have up to 22 LEDs so I don't need a face full of bright lights to indicate what a more comfortable brightness can provide. As you can see below the brightness is perfectly OK with the 480 ohm resistor.

 

Denny

 

Thanks Denny - especially for all the pictures.  I will be doing something vaguely similar.  I am still working on the wiring for the power first (but trying to get an order together for the parts I need next).  With three little girls though everything takes longer then I want it to.  :-)

 

-John

 

Denny,

 

Where did you get the LED mounts that you used on your control board?  And how thick is the board itself?  I used 1/4 inch plywood - but when I looked for mounts at Jameco I could only find ones for a thinner board.  Did you get yours from a different company?

 

-John

 

Hello John,

I used 1/8" panels. The one on the left fit on a 12" by 24" sheet that I purchased at Ace Hardware. My other two panels are larger than that so I had my local lumber yard order me a sheet as they did not have any in stock.

I ordered bezels for both the 5mm and the 3mm LEDs on eBay.

I have plenty of surplus items that I can send in a care package if you let me know how many switches you plan on controlling. I purchased a larger number of momentary switches that I did not use as they were too stiff for my liking.

So, just drop me a email with your details and I will send it to you at the latest in two weeks as I am off to Germany on Saturday. If you respond in time I can send them before I leave.

Cheers

Denny

Thanks for all the help on this one guys! Just gonna paraphrase so I make sure I understand. The yellow wire supplies roughly 5V (maybe 4.5V) of DC (+ green, - red) to power a light with - with the return being black (same black used for the red/greed wire return). A bipolar LED would be best, with the appropriate sized resistor wired in series between the yellow and black wires? Thanks again! Once I get the blocks wired up (I run conventional) getting the switches wired is the second step. :-) -John

 

 

Hello John,

I was reviewing some of the forum threads and re-read this one. The red wording above is not correct. It should read that the appropriate sized resistor is wired in series between the cathode of the LED (the short lead) and the yellow wire. You can see this in the diagram below.

Denny

 

 

Denny-

 

Thanks again for all the help - and thanks for the care package!  I started testing different combinations of LED and resistor - so working through that (I use 3xAA to get to 4.5V so I can test at my desk).  Also need to get the drill out and start making some 1/4 holes for the toggles and the bezels (thanks for that, by the way - I didn't know what they were called and I have been searching the web for "LED mount" and didn't find what I was looking for, I type in "bezel" and there is what I was looking for...)

 

Now, on the attached document you have an orange 3mm LED hooked up through a 1000 ohm resistor and the 1N4148 Diode - is this so you can light the LED using regular track power?  Does this work with conventional control (ie if you return the handle to the zero position does the LED then go out?)

 

Thanks again for all the help (and watch my progress in my John Mk 1 Layout thread in the construction area) and I will be writing up a complete list of what I use and pictures when I am done.

 

-John

 

Hello John,

The diagram represents the panel details for a turnout, uncoupler button, and siding power switch with power on indicator. The panel in the second photo supports my yard and these components can easily be seen. The orange LED is lit when the siding is connected to track power. As you have already deduced, the orange LED is off when there is no, or very little power on the siding. The LED gets brighter as more power is applied.

I run conventional and this system is fine for me. You could get creative and use a DPST or DPDT toggle for siding power instead of the SPST and use one pole to push 12V or so through the LED whenever the siding is powered on, regardless of the track power voltage.

Cheers

Denny

Hello John,

I have modified the diagram to include my above post info. Instead of the SPST toggle for the siding power, I have replaced it with a SPDT (you can substitute DPDT) toggle. The first pole acts like the original. The second pole connects the LED to 12V power when thrown.

Cheers

Denny