Finishing Wood Kits

It may very well be that my techniques are in fact 40 or more years old - they still work,

for wood kits I've used both sanding sealer and thinned lacquer to seal the wood. bare wood will soak up the paint coat, but that may be OK, especially if you're looking for an old, weathered car. the sealer then acts as a primer coat.

depending on the car's road color I use either Scalecoat, Model Master or Floquil paint, all solvent based. I try to always spray coat with an airbrush. in some a cases I brush paint, but then thin the paint for better flow and to lessen brush marks. I tend to finish a model looking like new and then weather.

if you use lacquer based finishes, don't use them over an oil based varnish finishes. the lacquer will lift the undercoat, making a mess.

Thanks. Is it advisable to paint inside boxcars with sealant? I was told it is better to let them "breathe" to prevent warping.

Strange.  I was always told that both sides of wood car sides should be sealed to prevent warping.

Ed

That's what I thought.

Ed Kelly posted:

Strange.  I was always told that both sides of wood car sides should be sealed to prevent warping.

Ed

 Is it advisable to paint inside boxcars with sealant? I was told it is better to let them "breathe" to prevent warping.

I've never sealed any car (or structure).  Warping might be more related to the use of non-solvent based paints, which I don't use on wood. 

I've never painted the inside of a car except when I was installing a detailed interior......

I think that there are a lot of myths floating about....

I guess sealing the inside is dependent whether it is exposed to climatic swings, mostly in humidity. having had problems with other organic materials, namely the paper on foam core board, I'd seal the inside if you expect wide changes in humidity.

I have always used thinned model airplane clear dope to seal wood kits, but first be sure to remove all sanding dust that may get lodged in the surface detail (like scribed siding). I usually apply the sealer with a brush, and after the first coat dries, give the surface a light sanding with very fine sandpaper (or a rubdown with fine steel wool) to knock off any "fuzz" that might get raised by the sealer. Again, a careful cleaning to remove any new dust that may have gotten stuck in the details, along with a light dusting using compressed air, then a follow-up coat of sealer. I usually prefer to spray the last coat of sealer, and then begin applying the color with my airbrush. Model airplane dope is getting hard to find, as is solvent based paint, but using water based paint on wood (especially if it is unsealed), is likely to increase the chances of warping problems.

Bill in FtL

I tend to agree with MWB. I've had good results brushing Tru-color (the type made for brushing), Floquil, and scalecoat 1. Results were good spraying the same brands, even using a spray can. 

I do like to prime with a spray primer, such as the $1.30 cans from Walmart. 

Tend to use Clover House dry transfers as well, so sometimes I need to spray Krylon matte before applying them. The Clover House instructions state not to use Testor's dullcote.

brr posted:

Tend to use Clover House dry transfers as well, so sometimes I need to spray Krylon matte before applying them. The Clover House instructions state not to use Testor's dullcote.

Rustoleum makes a Matte Clear that appears (at least so far to me) compatible with Clover House dry transfers.