first ERR install attempt questions

I would leave the volume pot too.  Your call on the speaker.  The MTH speaker is 8 ohm and can work too.  If you want smoke and HL control, you will need a tether with at least 6 wires.  Not sure every one has a month long back log, I do not.  Though if some parts need ordering fromr ERR as a dealer you will have a wait.  G

Check the voltages to the locos various lights so you can either change them or condition the ERR voltages to match them. Will diodes and or resistors be needed?

Trace the wires to see if you will need them for example the chuff switch if used, loco to tender tether, truck's power wiring etc.

Make a wiring diagram before you start to you get it right the first time.

Have some soldering skills and supplies like heat shrink tubing.

I always bread board the components before I start to check out the boards for correct operation so I know if they are not working in the loco I made a mistake and the boards were not defective .

Carl

Is the install video on Legacy Station's website?  Can you provide the link?  

Some notes on your project.

(1.) Lamps in older engines tend to be 12 to 15 volts, as Carl noted.  Replacing lamps front and rear with higher voltage lamps (18 to 20 volts) may in the long run be an advantage.  Some steam locomotives had a constant voltage board front head light.  There may also be cab lights, marker lights, front and rear.  

(2.) Some cases those older speakers PS1 were 16 ohms, be sure, as GGG noted, it is an 8 ohm speaker.

(3.) May be best to leave the smoke unit hooked as is.  Older Sleuth units draw a lot of amperage, and don't play well with newer electronic boards, IMO.

(4.) Most older tethers are (4) wire, as GGG indicated, (6)wires would be nice, (8) even better, depending on what you want to control/light.

(5.) One electric motor or two??  Older large can motor(s), or new, compact can motor with a flywheel(s). A Bigboy is a large model/a lot of weight.   There is usually a fair amount of discussion, about the advantages of replacing the motor(s) as part of this project.  IMO.

(6.) The install instructions should be available from the ERR website, Copy the instructions and work through the project before you purchase the package.   This allows an understanding of the project.  You should be able to make a material list beyond the package, that may be needed. 

(7.) Antenna installation and Tender shell isolation may require some additional work.

(8.) Sound package for an articulated steam engine may be a bit different.

Cruise Commander Install manual.    Click on the underlined phrase to link.   Note: This may not be the correct install manual for your project.   From the ERR website. (Contact Us).    There is a phone number on their website. 

Best wishes with your project.

Mike CT

GGG posted:

I would leave the volume pot too.

Since the pot is soldered on the ERR RailSounds Commander, you'll have to take it off and solder to the board to use that volume pot.

PJB posted:

Is the install video on Legacy Station's website?  Can you provide the link?  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZw1Gz4ejv8

UPFan posted:

Ok this may be a stupid question but here goes.  After watching the install video from legacy station I think I can do the ERR Cruise Commander and Railsounds commander install.  And with the months long backlog with most installers and the costs involved I think I am going to give it a try.  However...when tearing out the old boards in the tender what do you remove and what do you not remove.  This would be on a PS1 big boy with QS1.  From the video I saw he rips out everything and leaves the wires to the tether and the electrocoupler and thats it.  Would it be the same or is it more complicated.  Thanks and sorry for the dumb questions.

Jon

Jon, IMO there are no "stupid" or "dumb" questions.. You choose to ask some valid questions about your install that I'm sure many others here are interested in too, and for some reason may be hesitant to ask.. Here on the Forum we are lucky to have many different people with varied talents that a willing to share their knowledge with the rest of us.. I hesitate to name names for fear of leaving someone out, but Gunner John and GGG work with these installs on a daily basis and we are fortunate they are willing to share their expertise with us!! MY $.02..

Neel

Really no stupid questions on this forum, except the ones you don't ask.  That's how we learn and can promote the hobby.  The satisfaction of doing some jobs yourself can be very rewarding.  The OGR forum members experience range from professional train mechanics/medics to people who have never worked with electronics or soldered before.  The more people we get involved doing, the more solutions we can find to problems we may encounter.  FWIW

ogaugeguy posted:

PJB posted:

Is the install video on Legacy Station's website?  Can you provide the link?  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZw1Gz4ejv8

Thanks!

This is MTH engine so there are no 12-15V bulbs, wish there was as that would be great for TMCC.  The rear bulb which is directional is 1.5V so it has to go.  The Headlight would be track voltage 18V which will be ok, but the output would be better with 12-14V if your controlling from TMCC.  Big Boy has a fan driven PS-1 smoke unit.  No cherry switches on MTH so you need to use the supplied reed switch and on tender would probably be best.  Or else more wires to the engine.  G

GGG posted:

No cherry switches on MTH so you need to use the supplied reed switch and on tender would probably be best.  Or else more wires to the engine.  G

George, surely you've heard of the Chuff-Generator, it's a prefect fit for this application.   You can actually have truly synchronized chuffing at any rate you desire.

Of course  But this is his first upgrade, so small steps first!  G

I think it's easier to get the Chuff-Generator running than to fool around gluing magnets and reed switches to wheels and trucks.