I have several 3rd rail products- beautiful engines but I’ve had a few brass details get loose. The attachment point isn’t visible- what’s the best way to fix it? Crazy glue (CA glue), jb weld? I don’t think soldering would be good since it would mess up the paint?
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Depends on the component, ….CA is fast, but it’s also very brittle when cured, and doesn’t have a whole lot of strength, in addition, it can leave a white flash stain as it leaches across the repair area,…..JB quick is a good choice for decorative parts that need a decent bond. Another good choice are the varieties of 5 minute epoxies. All have short work times, so plan your repair accordingly, ……even small doses of any 5 minute glues can begin to lock up in 3 minutes,……
Pat
@harmonyards posted:Another good choice are the varieties of 5 minute epoxies. All have short work times, so plan your repair accordingly, ……even small doses of any 5 minute glues can begin to lock up in 3 minutes,……
Pat
I agree with Pat on this, but I use epoxy with a 30-minute curing time. For a small part, I mix the resin and hardener and wait five or ten minutes until it begins to gel and get tacky, then apply a dab to the part. I've re-attached small parts to Sunset/3rd-Rail brass models this way. If the part is bigger, I apply the epoxy sooner.
MELGAR
I'd go with Loctite 380 -- 90 seconds "adjustment time", one hour set time, 24 hour permanent bond. I once used it on two pieces of brass, accidentally misaligned them, ended up using a Zona saw to get them apart! Available from industrial supply places like Graingers or Zoro.
@modeltrainsparts posted:I'd go with Loctite 380 -- 90 seconds "adjustment time", one hour set time, 24 hour permanent bond. I once used it on two pieces of brass, accidentally misaligned them, ended up using a Zona saw to get them apart! Available from industrial supply places like Graingers or Zoro.
Loctite 380 is a fancy name for super glue, ……
Pat
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