Flickering Caboose Lights

You can do the same thing with O gauge.  Here was one of my experiments that worked well with zero flicker and nice fade when power is killed like a conductor is turning down the oil lamp inside the caboose.  There are of course many ways to do this, but this is what I ended up doing.

Here is the same flicker free LED caboose being compared to an normal incandescent caboose that does flicker over turnouts.

The parts and tools you need are in the first video.

The fade out is a nice effect, which I imagine is produced by the particular capacitor you use.

For those of us who are assembly-challenged Henning's Trains makes an LED lighting regulator board that is only $17.99 for a pair: 

http://henningstrains.lightspe...-2-pcs-jwanda/dp/255

I have used this for passenger car lighting and am prepared to swear by it.

I happen to be the guy that designed and builds the lighting regulator mentioned.  For convenience, it's hard to beat, but some folks want to "roll their own".

Here's the basic circuit that controls the LED lighting, this one is DCS compatible as well.  The resistor at R1 is selected for the intensity of lighting you desire.

Thanks Everyone ..............Great Vids !

I like the ready made units.

What LEDs should I use?

I have the pictured ones from Evans.  They are set for 7-19 volts.

It is necessary to use these?  Does John's board already do the job of the rectifier?

Thanks

Dave

Hennings also has GRJ's board packages with the LED strips, wiring, etc.

http://henningstrains.lightspe...ng-kit-jwanda/dp/253

Yes, his board includes the rectifier component that converts track AC voltage to the DC voltage needed by LEDs.  While in principle you could attach the Evans LEDs, you'll get better results using the LED strips.  Those individual LEDs cast a relatively narrow beam.  The LED strips cast a broader/wider illumination pattern which I think looks better for car interiors.

You can use individual LEDs or LED strips as Stan states.

Do you run command with 18V constant voltage on the track, or conventional with variable voltage?  The modules can be used with either, but you'd configure the LEDs a bit differently.  If you run conventional, I'd parallel two or three LED's in the caboose to light it.  If you run command, I'd use some of the LED strips.  Let me know if you need some short LED strip pieces, I always end up with some short stuff when using the reels of them.

GRJ: Pardon my ignorance, but in your circuit diagram, what is component "L1 - 22uh" ?

That would be the 22 micro-henry choke for MTH DCS compatibility.  I put them in all my stuff that will draw power from the rails and uses filter capacitors.

The logic goes something like this. Even if you don't use DCS, the 22uH inductor is inexpensive. So if rolling-your-own, why not include it just-in-case.  It does not affect the performance of the circuit for conventional or TMCC/Legacy operation. 

It is also the one component in the circuit that you won't find on the shelf at Radio Shack.  As OGR might delete a direct link to that auction site, here's a suitable L1 - less than 3 cents each.

Thanks Gents for all the replies.

I operate mainly in command mode.

I will order the modules from Henning's.  I trust they ship to Canada.

I would like to try the "strip" LEDs however for my application (single light rolling stock) I would only need a few.  I assume the strip can be cut to include the number of lights desired?

Thanks John......I will email you off line for some of those short pieces.

Dave

I have to say, I honestly like John's circuit better, so my version 3.0 will be similar with a choke and LM317T.

You could easily add a choke to what I have now, (version 2.1) but at the time, I didn't have any).

I just need a rainy weekend with nothing going on to play with it on my bread board and try a test install. 

My only requirements are that it works for both traditional transformer control as well as command control, not flicker going over gaps at slow speeds, and a reasonable brightness level even at 18 volts.

I highly recommend the Henning's modules.  Plus, in addition to GRJ himself, there are many here on OGR who have the module so questions will get answered promptly.

While there are variations in LED strips, the most common type can be cut on 2" boundaries where the copper islands are in the above photo.  You then solder 2 wires from the Hennings module to the copper-islands.

Thanks Stan...

So it appears to be 3 lights per boundary (minimum).

One could go less but you would have waste.

Are these the strips that Hennings sells with the passenger kit you mentioned earlier?

Dave

As noted earlier you could hook up individual LEDs to the Hennings module instead of using the strips.  The strips are configured to operate in multiples of 3.  A group-of-3 LEDs will not work if you cut the strip between the boundary point.  That said, there are LED strips that are twice as dense...so 3 LEDs every inch (well, to be precise 3 LEDs every 2.5cm instead of 5cm).  But per the current Hennings website photo, the strips in the kit appear to be 3 LEDs every 2".

As for "waste" even you don't use the full-length of whatever is supplied, the unused sections could be saved for another lighting project.  So, for example, if you buy the complete kit from Hennings and have leftover LED sections, you could later buy just the modules to power those leftover sections.

I save all the "cuttings" from working with these rolls and use them for short pieces in stuff like a caboose or other similar application.

That nicely sums it up Stan.

I placed an order on line with Hennings for the Passenger Kit.

Thanks for your offer John, however, now with two full strips coming I should have enough to complete and "practice"  with.

Thanks Guys for your help.

Dave

Lookin' good, we await your results.