Foam Core Elelvator (12/12,MORE New pics)

Nice, can't wait to see it finished.

Looks great, A good way to fill in a corner. What glue do you use for foam core. 

I love working with foam core board. Makes an inexpensive, stable core to have exterior treatment added.

Malcolm,

Looks absolutely terrific!

I really like foamcore and have used it for my large 3D backdrop buildings (below).  All structures in the photos are foamcore over a wooden framework with Plastruct and Evergreen styrene sheet exteriors.

t8afao - I used Elmer's and plastic cement for the foam.  You can't use the plastic cement or CA on the foam innards - it will melt the foam.

Malcolm - what glue did you use?

George

I used hot glue. I will use latex based liquid nails for the metal siding.

George, Looks great!

Malcolm

Very nice

keep us updated when the project is completed.

This is the look I am going for. I have several photos that I made too. This was was made by David Howe. The mill has no rail service now although the rail is still there.

Malcolm

Malcolm, Nice job and would like to know where you plan to buy your metal siding as I want to build some warehouses for my layout too.

Great to see folks building things themselves.....and not spending huge money! Nice work!

Those kinds of buildings are common in my neck of the woods.  Many of them are concrete since I live close to the "cement belt".     They have metal roofs and wood or metal supports for overhanging roofs like the one over the dock.   They weather to various shades of grey ranging from light and dark grey to a  to almost yellowish white.

Would be easy to model in the manner you are doing.

Very Nice! I can't wait to see the corrugated roof, I'm curious on how this is made.

Cesar

Great Job

Can't wait to see the finished project! Don't forget to post those photos as well

Dave

I started making the corrugated siding today. I am using Reynolds extra strength aluminum foil. The process involves laying the pre-cut strips on a piece of J&T corrugated styrene and then forming ridges with the "corrugating tool". The Reynolds is pretty thick and holds the corrugations even with handling.

I am going to use Crafters Pick latex adhesive. It works very well when used as a contact cement. I tried it last night and I was unable to remove the foil without removing the paper from the foam-core as well. No photos today but I will have some tomorrow.

Malcolm

Hi Malcolm, I am wondering if this model is being built to HO scale since your most recent postings have noted that you were making a scale change?

Bob

New pics and it is  O scale Bob

Nice!  I've built elevators of Evergreen and Plastruct corrugated siding, but, as you

know, an O scale elevator eats a lot of sheets of that, so...what is a "corrugating

tool" Thanks.

So you use a piece of plastic corrugated sheet as a pattern? How do you press the alum foil in to the pattern?

Happy Thanksgiving.

Dick 

Malcolm, that's very creative.  I like the look you have going on there.

Thank you all & Happy Thanksgiving!!

The corrugating tool is a piece of the corrugated J&T styrene taped to a wood shim. I pre-cut the aluminum foil strips and press them into the sheet of corrugated material with the tool. I then cut them to length with a NWSL chopper.

Malcolm

Malcolm, what is a NWSL chopper?

My guess is that foam board is easily cut with a straight edge and razor, where Masonite or thin plywood has to be cut with a saw ( tablesaw).

Dave,

To answer your questions:

1. Yes.  In large structures like my mills, foamcore will warp without wood frame backing.  But only a minimal framework is needed.
2. Materials like masonite are harder to work with than foamcore.  It is much easier and quicker to make a precision cut with a metal ruler and a razor blade (foam cutter) than use a hand saw or saber saw to cut masonite.  And it's harder to get a precise cut with those tools as well.

I think I need to explore putting up my foamcore clinic someplace.

George

A foam core clinic with photos please gets my vote.

Regards Daryl

Well at midnight when I am well into a project I dont need to start up the Table saw for the neighborhood and it is very easy to cut glue and paint, extremely light weight.

OK, here it is.  It is a self-contained PowerPoint slide show (you don't need PowerPoint to view it - just double-click).

George

Hi George,

Excellent article. Simple and to the point. Thank you kindly for posted it.

Regards Daryl

The warehouse in the attached photo is a mock up I built last year from carboard with a timber frame. I mainly use it to get an idea of how a scene might look.

Regards Daryl

Nicely done. Looking forward to seeing the completed version.

Dave,

Thank you.  By the way, the tool is NOT attached to the ruler.  I simply used a metal straightedge yardstick.

The tool is called a Logan Straight Cutter Model 701.  I got mine at A.C. Moore, a craft store.  It's a bit pricey ($25), so I suggest signing up for their weekly e-coupons and buying it at 50%.

George

Logan Straight Cutter Model 701.  That is nice.  I have been using an Xacto Foam Board Cutter and Xacto Craft Knife with a Metal 18" Ruler, but for those big long cuts that Logan would make those cuts easier.

Malcolm,

The elevator is coming along nicely. Keep up the good work.

Tried everything to open the powerpoint but to no avail....I don't have power point but did try Open Office and a few others but could not get it to open...

Alan

Hmmm.  Alan, you don't need Powerpoint to use the file.  It should have opened with a double-click.  If you still don't have any luck, shoot me an e-mail (gpandelios@verizon.net) and I'll send you a copy tonight.

George

1/4" poplar craft wood (1/4" x 2" x 3' at Home Depot or Lowe's) is what I used. 

Oh, Home Depot also sells wooden yardsticks for $0.88.  Those would also work and they are cheap!

George

New photos. All siding in place and styrene sheet roof started.

Malcolm, looks terrific!! 

George

Another pic with some weathering started.