Just picked up a brand new Railking M1A Mountain today. It is a beautiful model with a Premier level of detail, and its nearly 26 inches long. We test ran it at the shop, and it ran beautifully, with some of the best sounds I've ever heard from an MTH loco. However, when I got it home the trouble started. I placed it on the track and turned the power on........nothing. The headlight didn't even come on. My first thought was the drawbar that so many have been complaining about, so I checked it. Both ends were plugged in super tight. So tight in fact that I had trouble unplugging it. So, I plugged it in again and even applied a little bit of pressure with some needle nose pliers to make sure it was tight. Still nothing. It won't do anything except sit there and look pretty. Then, to add insult to injury, I noticed that two of the handrail stanchions on the bolier had popped out and were dangling on the hand rail. To say that I am displeased is an understatement. Luckily I live close to the local o gauge shop and I will drop it off in the morning. Anyone else had a similar experience with this loco? Anyone have any troubleshooting ideas? BTW, my other locos still work perfectly, so the track is getting power. Thanks guys.
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Yes, I too noticed several areas where the paint is either coming off or wasn't even applied. I touched it up with a little black paint, but one really shouldn't have to do that to a $450.00 locomotive. I am concerned about MTH's quality control since their move to a new factory in China. I'm also not convinced that the drawbar is an improvement over the tether. Time will tell.
I would strongly recommend returning the engine for a full refund. I agree, in no way should one spend this kind of money for problems. By getting your money back, it hopefully shows MTH that these problems are not going to be tolerated.
I would strongly recommend returning the engine for a full refund. I agree, in no way should one spend this kind of money for problems. By getting your money back, it hopefully shows MTH that these problems are not going to be tolerated.
It was tested and fine in the store. I don't think that a refund is called for at this time.
I got mine last week, at first everything was great!! Then the problems started first, one of the vertical railings on the back of the boiler was broke off, not popped out of the hole but broken with a tiny piece still in the hole in the boiler. Second issue, some of the paint is coming off of the ends of the axles, almost looks like the side rods are hitting the ends of the axles. Third issue, is the loco started to make a growling sound when running on he layout, something in the motor/linkage seems to be hanging up. I contacted the dealer that I bought it from and I must say they were 100 percent helpful in the matter, they even contacted MTH and had them send me a RA number. I am very pleased and encouraged with the help that the dealer has given me. I think it is a great looking and sounding loco without spending a $1000.00 or more, but I know these things happen and it does get frustrating. Mine is actually boxed now and going to be sent out tomorrow. I attached a few pics.
Jeff
Attachments
I get broken parts from rough shipping but,how can there be binding/linkage issues when MTH tests every locomotive?
Jeff, my drive wheels look the same as yours. I'm not sure whats causing that, but I could live with that if not for the other issues. I just hope that it can e fixed, because I really like the model. As I said earlier, the detail rivals or surpasses Premier locomotives from a few years back. One thing I have noticed is the handrails and grab irons are made from a thinner gauge of wire than some of the older Railking locos. Im not sure why the switch was made because I think the old ones looked just fine.
I would strongly recommend returning the engine for a full refund. I agree, in no way should one spend this kind of money for problems. By getting your money back, it hopefully shows MTH that these problems are not going to be tolerated.
It was tested and fine in the store. I don't think that a refund is called for at this time.
Why not? If there is a problem with the engine regardless of whether or not it ran in the store, a refund is warranted. No one is expected to keep something they are not satisfied with. I had no problem or issue asking my dealer for my money back.
I have just about decided that I'm going to ask for an exchange, because he has two or three more in stock. But rest assured I will be going over it with a fine tooth comb before I take the replacement home. And it will definitely be test run extensively. I really don't want to give up on the proto 3.0 steamers because the sounds are absolutely awesome, and when it was working it smoked like crazy. Altogether a very impressive locomotive for the money. I'm willing to give MTH a second chance because I like the locomotive that much.
I have the same engine and it runs fine on my O42 and O54 curves. If you're running O31 I'd suggest using the longer drawbar that came with the engine.
I placed it on the track and turned the power on........nothing.
Are you running conventionally or under DCS?
Regardless, a bit more detail regarding your power and wiring would be helpful.
It was test run in the store on conventional. At home I have an MTH 75 watt transformer connected to a DCS remote commander......the system that comes in the starter sets
It was test run in the store on conventional. At home I have an MTH 75 watt transformer connected to a DCS remote commander......the system that comes in the starter sets
Maybe this engine had in fact been run with the "full" DCS system and the ID was reset. Try running it on conventional.
It was test run in the store on conventional. At home I have an MTH 75 watt transformer connected to a DCS remote commander......the system that comes in the starter sets
You need to do a factory reset. The starter sets DCS only respond to engines that are identified as "0". If the hobby shop assigned it to another number say 1, it won't be recognized.
Just a thought
I would strongly recommend returning the engine for a full refund. I agree, in no way should one spend this kind of money for problems. By getting your money back, it hopefully shows MTH that these problems are not going to be tolerated.
It was tested and fine in the store. I don't think that a refund is called for at this time.
Why not? If there is a problem with the engine regardless of whether or not it ran in the store, a refund is warranted. No one is expected to keep something they are not satisfied with. I had no problem or issue asking my dealer for my money back.
Because I think MTH and the store should be given a chance to fix the locomotive. You have your opinion and I have mine.
I also thought about a factory reset, however even if the dcs remote commander doesn't recognize the loco, shouldn't the headlight at least come on when it receives track power before I press start up?
I also thought about a factory reset, however even if the dcs remote commander doesn't recognize the loco, shouldn't the headlight at least come on when it receives track power before I press start up?
No, it will do exactly nothing. The engine needs to be Factory Reset and not added to a DCS Remote after the reset.
I also thought about a factory reset, however even if the dcs remote commander doesn't recognize the loco, shouldn't the headlight at least come on when it receives track power before I press start up?
AGAIN have you tried to run engine in conventional mode on your track???
Yes it is possible. Does your dealer have the DCS system? He can do the reset. G
I had a similar issue with my Evolution Hybrid last year. At my dealer it worked great, I got it home and used my remote commander and it did nothing (no lights also). So, then I dug out my DCS. It worked perfect under DCS. Next, I did a factory reset using the DCS and tried the remote commander again. The engine fired right up. So, I called my dealer and they said that they did try the engine out on their DCS system make sure everything worked correctly. They had received several engines DOA and wanted to make sure this one was in working condition.
-Ryan
I bought a 254e proto-2 set last year and it was new in the box from MTH. It would not work with the Commander that came with the set. I did a factory reset with my dcs and it work fine using the Commander Controller. I also bought a 262e proto-3 set and it worked ok with the Commander controller.
They need to find a way to reset it either from the commander or a jumper. Seem MTH could have a few unhappy people thinking their engine is broke and all it needs is a reset.
Marty,
I had a pre-production model of the Remote Commander and the doc mistakenly said that a transformer reset would Factory Reset a DCS engine. After explaining to them that that was just wrong, they changed the doc.
Unfortunately, there's no way to get a Factory Reset into the DCSRC handheld since it's a one-way communicator. It hasn't got the ability to query the track to find out the DCS ID# of the locomotive to be reset.
Just picked up a brand new Railking M1A Mountain today. It is a beautiful model with a Premier level of detail, and its nearly 26 inches long. We test ran it at the shop, and it ran beautifully, with some of the best sounds I've ever heard from an MTH loco. However, when I got it home the trouble started. I placed it on the track and turned the power on........nothing. The headlight didn't even come on. My first thought was the drawbar that so many have been complaining about, so I checked it. Both ends were plugged in super tight. So tight in fact that I had trouble unplugging it. So, I plugged it in again and even applied a little bit of pressure with some needle nose pliers to make sure it was tight. Still nothing. It won't do anything except sit there and look pretty. Then, to add insult to injury, I noticed that two of the handrail stanchions on the bolier had popped out and were dangling on the hand rail. To say that I am displeased is an understatement. Luckily I live close to the local o gauge shop and I will drop it off in the morning. Anyone else had a similar experience with this loco? Anyone have any troubleshooting ideas? BTW, my other locos still work perfectly, so the track is getting power. Thanks guys.