Ganging Command and Remote Fastrack Switches

Doug,

   Yes you can wire the FTCC Switches together and then simply us one FTCC switch number to activate the switches from your Cab2 or Cab1L.  In fact if I remember correctly I had an older non CC switch laying around and even used that one and it worked also, because the sold wire simply activated the non CC switch, as the FTCC Switch itself activated all the other switches.  I do not know if Lionel has made any updates to block this from happening or not.  Remember all new FasTrack Switches are currently being produced FTCC by Lionel.  

If you want non - FTCC FasTrack Switches purchased new from a store inventory, better get them quick, unless you plan on purchasing them on the used market.

PCRR/Dave

Thanks Dave, I know the FTCC switches easily gang by assigning them the same number but how do you connect to a non CC switch to make it respond when a FTCC switch is thrown? There are plenty of the non CC (remote) switches available new on the shelves and the used market is flooded. When I find them cheap enough I upgrade them to CC with the ERR switch commander.

Doug,

   You need to open each switch and wire them to each other under the switches, then re-insert them back into the layout.  Test them before you re-insert them into the layout, by using the Cab2 to activate the 1st switch making them both work.  It is better to use all FTCC so you have no wiring.  I was just advising you that I remember doing this with a nonFTCC Switch one time, to see if it would work, I quickly discarded the idea and sold my original FT non CC switches.  The object however with FTCC switches is to remove all wiring.

PCRR/Dave

Doug. You would use the remote control connections on both switches. You would run wire from the command switch to the non command switch. 

I use non command remote switches in tandem with Command switches when they are on passing sidings and as crossovers on my floor layouts. 

So do I just connect the Out and Thru terminals from one switch to another? That seems too easy...

Connecting the thru and out connections together allow the switches to operate with the remote controller handle. But, they will not both switch (I have not tested this to be sure but the thru and out are inputs, not outputs) when operating with the CAB only unless they are both command switches with the same address. Of course, with no thru and out wiring at all, programming both COMMAND control switches with the same address will allow both switches to switch with the CAB.

CJack,

   There is a way to wire it so the Non FTCC switch does activate when the command switch is initiated from the HHRC, Ryan can probably give exacting connection instructions, it has been years sense I had this set up.  I wanted to eliminate all the wiring so I sold all the original FT Switches, rather than keep them on the layout.  I wanted to go forward with the technology and eliminate all the Switch wiring, and I did.

One thing however I do not know if the FTCC Switches can be activated by the WiFi Ap or not, I do believe there is a way to do this also, however I do not use the AP to actually give instructions on how to make it happen.

PCRR/Dave

Anyone else know where to grab an output from the command switches to activate a non-command switch?

That is certainly possible if the connection(s) are made on the internal circuit board. I don’t think there is a public schematic. I have never seen one, only have seen an internal wiring diagram.

A simpler way would be to purchase the command control add on boards from Electric Railroad, ERR. Install a board into each non CC switche, program them with the same address, and switch both with one CAB action and use NO wiring between the switches.

DOUG...Are you sure about the cost? I thought Lionel only makes CC switches with a remote now for one lower price than it used to be. You need to check into that. Nick

Positive, the difference is between new and used. New CC switches typically go for $90-$109 when not on sale. On sale you might be able to scoop one up for sub $80. Whereas the "old" remote switches you can get used for $40-50 all day long, but then you have to add $30 for an ERR module to convert to Command and it becomes a wash between buying new vs. used. If instead you can buy one CC switch and have it control a "slave" used remote switch you have just saved $30-$40 by using an "old" remote switch in place of a new CC switch. Definitely makes sense if trying to do crossovers or sidings where two switches  to work in tandem.

Sounds like Conrail5065 says to just connect the remote control ports on both switches and it will work while some of the posts below his contradict that. I will give it a shot and report back.

CJack,

   No doubt about it the wireless set up is best, I do wish I had kept the wiring information on how we did this, it does work.  However to me it was not worth the effort to set it all up.  It's why I discarded the engineering idea of using it and sold my original FT switches.  Then Guns advised me of the ERR upgrade, and that also turns into lot of work.  However if you want to save the money, using your own time and some wiring, go for it in that manner, or upgrade the FT original Switch with ERR.  I am sure Guns kept the upgrade info, I did not.

Doug K,

Conrail5065 is correct, connect the ports under the switches and it activates both the FTCC Switch and the wire connected regular FT switch, from the HHRC. It is a simple wire connection, however there is limited space and we soldered the wires together to make it happen.  I had to play around with the connections until I made it work.  Using Track power once the FTCC switch is activated by the Cab2 HHRC, it activates the regular wired switch connected to it also.

PCRR/Dave

Did you actually disassemble the switch by taking the 15 screws off the back and solder to wires inside the switch?