Gaps in tubular track connections

Maybe there's a better answer, but I would say, primarily because tubular track is so prevalent and inexpensive, that the best thing is re-measure, make sure and re-cut. Make sure when you cut that you file any and all burrs or filings. If they get into wheelsets and/or picked up by magnetized wheels, you'll have a lot of problems.

Howdy Ed!

I like tubular track that is seamless! Apart from the esthetics, it just operates better.

Some years ago I purchased a used set of track pliers that have a circular opening that grips the rail. When joining my "0" gauge track, I grip the rail with the track pliers and using a hammer gently tap the track together. As you can see - no gaps and happy trains!

Solder on top of the exposed pin and file it smooth. 

Thanks all!  

I always found that if I cut the fitter to the exact length/arc predicted by RRTrack, it would fit pretty much perfectly with little or no gap. 

Rod

You can adjust the ends as needed.   Gargraves track pictured.   Bench disk/belt sander.  Heavy abrasive disk. 

I've made custom Atlas track pieces. 

Down side:  Custom fit pieces probably can't be used anywhere else on the layout.  

Edit/Add:  Tuesday 9/1/2020, 7:10 AM.    You can make similar adjustments with a dremel tool and a cutting disk.  

Ed, IMO this is a very important topic for those of us who use tubular track. Thanks for posting it.

When I built my current layout in the late 1990s, I did some good things, such as building solid bench work by the book so I have a solid foundation for my layout, bu one thing I did not do is eliminate all gaps between my Postwar tubular track sections.

I believe these gaps are the biggest flaw in my layout, causing small voltage drops in different places on my layout. It would be a major undertaking for me to eliminate these gaps in the track, which is ballasted in place.

You folks now in the process of building your layouts or planning to do so should take heed to what is said in this topic.

Arnold

One thing I’ve definitely learnt from my O27 test track layout, is that even when screwed down, tubular track is prone to significant power drops over quite short distances. I’ve already installed several droppers and tbh, I’d have considerable reservations about ballasting it in place. 

This is my first ever layout.   No plans....no software design...therefore I have had to make lots of cuts in the track for alignment and fits 

It’s 16x8 on 4 separate 8x4 benchworks each of which are on wheels so I can work on one section at a time and don’t have to reach over!

I am connecting track feeders every few feet or so and guess that there will be at least 20 places in the complete layout where track power is being delivered   

this layout is certainly not to scale ( the track alone took care of that) and will never win an award but is great fun nevertheless as it took the time that retirement now affords me to focus on it!

One thing I did as a much younger man in the seventies was to solder wire jumpers between every single section of track on my layout. It was a lot of work but it really cut down on voltage drop.

I can't believe this hasn't been mentioned yet, but you lay and secure your first piece, then use a hammer to tap the next pieces rails flush. Secure that piece and repeat with the next. This results in seamless joints. Depending upon your track plan, you may find the need for custom length pieces which can be cut with a hacksaw or dremel type tool.

Bmoran4- agreed!   However I still get gaps due to the use of insulated track pins, which does add up when using many, and the inaccuracy of my cuts.  They are never more than 1/16” but was hoping that there was a tested way of eliminating even those!

thought of soldering and filing those...

I fill the track joint gaps in three ways.

One method is to cut a piece of track rail to a width of the gap with a fine hack saw or better yet a Dremel with fiber backed cutoff wheel.  I then use a small screw driver or knife to spread the cut piece open and put it in the gap and over the rail pin.  Then crimp it on with a small pare of nipper pliers. Push the bottom piece of the gap filler to the bottom or cut it off with a pair of diagonal pliers.  Advantage -  looks great, disadvantage- must use hack saw etc. and vise maybe not at layout

The second way is to use a piece of aluminum flashing or other metal about the same thickness of the rail and cut pieces of metal with tin snips, the same with as the gap and install as above in number one.  I have used pieces of metal from those old temporary monthly aluminum calendars used to fold on a wrist watch band for years.  Advantage - can be done at layout with tin snips

For insulated track pins, I fill gaps with cut off pieces of plastic wire insulation with the same inside diameter of the track pins.  If the track is already installed I slit the piece of insulation to slip it on.

Filling in the gaps is important to save wear on the pick up roller and train wheels and also to decrease noise.  I have filled dozens of gaps on my layout.

Charlie

EJC-1956: I was the same as you 25 yrs. ago when I wanted to revisit my childhood and build a 'tubular track' layout - albeit small - to rekindle the fond memories of my youth.  However, when I began, for me it was a challenging PITA to make the joints tight.

Several good suggestions have already been made on this thread to eliminate gaps but for me personally, and never having mastered 'soldering' skills, I'd have to say one of the best purchases I ever made - to either ensure tight joints OR to disassemble track at a later date when (inevitably) one wants to change their layout - was the O Gauge "T-Tracker".  Briefly, it's a vice-like tool that really works!

In the event you'd like to know more about this tool there was a Post on this forum (dated 10/06/18) entitled "T-Tracker track joining tool: Opinions" (sorry, I'm an old dinosaur and haven't learned how to link it to this thread) so just do a Search and you'll see it.  Note: There's even a picture of the tool in one comment.

Good Luck on your layout!

Everything that has been said plus measure twice, cut once!  If you still end up with a gap here and there fill the joint with Permatex Liquid Metal Filler.

Excellent ideas all around. It gives me a heads up with my pending 2021 layout build.

Don W, I like your tight track joints. Where did you get the ties? They look great.

EJC-1956 posted;It’s 16x8 on 4 separate 8x4 benchworks each of which are on wheels so I can work on one section at a time and don’t have to reach over!

That is an excellent idea. You can also pull those sections apart when you want to work on scenery or add buildings etc. I would love to see some pictures when you get done with it.

@tncentrr posted:

EJC-1956 posted;It’s 16x8 on 4 separate 8x4 benchworks each of which are on wheels so I can work on one section at a time and don’t have to reach over!

That is an excellent idea. You can also pull those sections apart when you want to work on scenery or add buildings etc. I would love to see some pictures when you get done with it.

Thanks for the compliment!  The idea was that it would be easier to work on and make it movable in the event it was necessary.  It’s made with 2x4’s and 3/4” exterior plywood.  Each section has 4” wheels.  Further I used molex connectors on each section so wiring can be easily disconnected as well.  

You can do a lot with solder and a Dremel

Good luck on that layout, Ed -you're off to a good start!

Jay - those supplemental rubber ties came from Moondog Express which I believe is no longer in business. Mounted on cork roadbed, they cushion the track and absorb some of the train noise which makes Mrs. W. happy.

Ed -what's on the barbeque and when can we drop by?

Definitely post COVID!!

The T-Tracker track joining tool will work with full sized track.  A pair of Channe-lock pliers will a do that job too.  Or a block of wood and a hammer on the none pinned track end during installation will also work.  Many gaps that show up probably come from odd sized track sections that were not exactly cut with curves sections being the hardest to cut.  These can be trued up with the filing or grinding the too long piece of track to the proper length.

My favorite track tool is a small pair of nipper pliers to tightening up the the track pins or the metal fillers use to fill the gaps.

See the metal gap filler in the lower right of the picture.  It is either cut off track sections to fit or pieces of aluminum flashing metal.

Charlie