Gargraves flex vs sectional

The trick is getting smooth bends. Once you've mastered that, using flex instead of sectional should be fine.

We used both! The sectional curves are more consistent and easy to work with. The flex bends but I wouldnt try to bend it real tight. The sectional curves are fantastic, we have 072, 080, 089, and a couple 064.

Hi guys & gals,  OK I'm a newby, what is the procedure to getting a smooth bend on GG flex track.  I have some straights and this question has been on my mind as I plan my layout.

tommy 

There are many different methods for bending GarGraves, and everybody has their favorite. Some cut a plywood template, some use nails in a board, some a tire, some their beer belly!  I think the main thing is to have some support in the center of the bend, to avoid kinking.  When you buy a quantity of the track from GarGraves, they will provide a how-to leaflet.

Thanks everyone. I've found at least eight good discussions on the forum about bending the track. I was thinking to myself I could buy a box of flex and maybe never any sectionals. Sounds like that could be fairly reasonable expectation. It doesn't matter too much since I know I would try it anyway. :-)

Don't try to bend or force it all in one motion.  Take it slow and easy using several "small" bends to reach your final geometry.  Using small bends will give you the opportunity to anticipate kinks before they happen.  Be sure and realign ties with each bend.  When you reach your desired geometry even up the track ends with a dremel or saw.  You may also wish to open up the ends of the track a tad to receive the pins.

 

If you have some extra flex track, a little practice to get the feel of bending the track is a good idea.

 

Poppyl

I can tell you from experience, if you plan to do your entire layout with flex, be prepared to spend A LOT of time bending all those curves. Buy lots of cutoff wheels for your dremel tool, and get a couple pieces to practice with before you commit to all flex track. The couple extra dollars for the sectional curves pieces is WELL WORTH THE INVESTMENT!

I use Flex in areas that transition from curves or straights.  If I have a 1/2 circle or more I use the sectional track, a bit more expensive but provides better control of the curve with less hassle.

 

I post this all the time, but feel it's necessary to inform everyone...Gargraves curved sections are not exactly 054, 072, etc center-to-center.  Here's the link so you can see the differences:

 

http://www.gargraves.com/files/Sectionalspecs.pdf

 

It's not a big deal, but 1/2" could mean not fitting in a spot.  054 shows as 53-1/2" c-t-c (plastic ties) and 52-3/4" c-t-c (wood ties).  Most likely you can "spring" the piece to make it fit, but thought you'd like to know.

 

If you have long stretches of straight I would use the Flex for that too.

My layout is all Gargraves Flextrack.  I am a proponent of the bend it as you go method.  If you would like a few photos and instructions, send me an email.

.....

Dennis

I got my first flex track in........drum roll............1952. My dad bought a bunch for me but had no idea how to cut it or put it together. But, I'm still using flex. My new layout is not table top for much of the area and it's so much better to use flex track. I'm not stuck with any size curves though everything is larger than 072. Ross switches, Gargraves track. Don

There is one thing you can do with flex-track that is impossible to do with sectional track...eased (or "spiral") curves.

 

A curve with an easement looks so much better than the instantaneous jump from straight to curve.

My layout is 100% Gargraves flex-track with Ross switches.  I had no trouble bending the curves.  I suggest that you spray WD-40 (lots) on the ties prior to bending because it allows the ties to slip and slide.  The excess can be wiped off with a rag and some denatured alcohol.  The rest soaks into the ties and can't be seen.  Gargraves had a video available showing the process and if you are unsure how to do it, it might be worth the money compared to the price of damaged track sections.

My entire layout is flex and Ross also.  I made templates out of plywood.  You will get the hang of it in no time.  At first attempt it can be a pain.  Be diligent.  

Bill

What is the tightest curve you would want to bend with the flexible track?

 

I seem to remember reading you are pressing your luck to get O72 and you don't want to try for tighter than that. Does that sound about right?

 

I have always used all Gargraves Flextrack and Ross Turnouts. Like Dennis above I use the bend-as-you-go method. The sharpest curve arc I have personally used was 042[21" R].

I just looked on their website and they make a 0-32 preformed curve.......Paul

 

In the latest reincarnation of my layout I decided to go completely with Ross track and switches. Because of the design I only had to make a couple of cuts. I used all sectional track and the results were great.

The key with Gargraves flex track is "patience grasshopper".  If you want to slap all of your track down in a day, go with sectional.  I prefer the longer runs and fewer joints.  I have messed up my share of curves and on occasion still do but I have also managed to create a curve on the inside of some 0-27 sections using those sections as a template.  To ensure smooth curves I use a piece of sectional track upside down, sliding it along the top of the GG track.  This stuff had been around forever which is a testament to its usefulness.

If you can afford it, the sectional track will give you nice, smooth, concentric curves, if you want a spiral transition you'd have to use flex track. Sectional straights will allow very straight mainline runs. Many are track laying experts and can do perfrct jobs, others (us included) not so much.

Have seen hand bent (or in 2Rail hand laid) curves which look "straight" to the eye and then an articulated comes running by and you see the front truck and engine wandering back and forth under the boiler.

 

Bending flex track into curves will give you diameters not factory available. Have seen layouts made both ways and both look great because we're there to have fun with friends and run trains, not survey the right of way.

 

The image from Laidoffsick shows how beautiful perfect track looks. Sectional is faster going down too.

I forgot to mention I also recommend Ross Switches to go with the Gargraves Flextrack.

.....

Dennis

 

Laying Flextrack:

I have steel rulers/straight edges of 1', 3', 5' and 8', all of which serve to keep track straight when held against the Flex tie ends. I place temporary screws in the track and then remove them and fill the holes after glue ballasting.

 

All of my flex track is laid center rail to a marked centerline on both straight and curve arcs and I bend and fasten it as I lay it. I always leave the trailing joint on a curved track section unfastened back 9 ties from each side of the joint, until the 37" section is bent and laid to the center mark going forward with a screw about every 9 ties except left out at the leading joint which will be a part of the next trailing joint..

 

To form a perfect curve at the trailing joint after driving up the skittered rails part way, I place a block flat on the benchwork against the tie ends at the trailing joint and ease it in until the center rail at the joint is over the marked centerline. Then I install a retaining screw each side 2 ties back from the joint. Going to the leading end, I drive the skittered rails on up at the trailing end, but not jamb tight. Then I cut the track off at the leading end along a tie, dress the cut ends with Jeweler' files and proceed with installing the next section.

 

I mark my curve arc center lines with a broken section of steel tape that has a hole dirilled at the 1"mark to place over a pivot point, usually a 4p finishing nail is the pivot. The tape has holes for marking the track centerline with a Sharpie as you swing the tape/radius at: 22"[042], 28"[054], 37"[072], 43"[084], 49"[096] and all curves in between if desired.

 

Measuring to extablish a pivot point is simple given that you know where you want your track laid--6"from the wall/edge, etc. It takes some rigging and outrigging for establishing a pivot point for elevated curves and inside curves but not complicated---it is just measuring and screwing 1x4s to framing as the rigging.

 

 

 When working curves don't try to bend short sections of less than 18". You can bend it but it makes aligning the joints as noted above essential. Work out your lengths all the way around the curve to use the longest sections possible. 

 

 

A number of folks (myself included) build easements with sectional track.  Works well, looks good, and is easy.

For instance, if a curve is Gargraves O-72, I might start with a O-113 and O-89 leading into the curve.  Or, perhaps just a single O-106 section.

 

I use Fastrack on my layout: 

My O-60 diameter loop has O-72 easements and O-72 turnouts minimum. 

My inner loop is O-48 governing diameter, with O-60 curves and O-60 turnout minimum.

On my previous layout I had a inner figure-8 of O-36 diameter, which I fed with O-72 half or full section easements from the straigths.  Looked nice, and the trains did not "jerk" into a curve, they flowed or eased into the curve.

 

Sectional track easements are easy to do, and look good.  No hassel with cutting and bending.  To each their own, both ideas work great.  I went the flex-track route when I was in HO.   A dozen years ago I used KATO Unitrack in "N", and always used a wider diameter as easement flowing into a curve.  Adding easements one way or the other is a "must" for me.

I used gargraves w/ross switches and loved the workability of the flex track. I did use some preformed but for the 80% of my road is flex. A friend and fellow enthusiast , TomTee, gave me a homemade track bending block that works great. It actually massages the track into a nice form for cutting. I have made a couple for myself as I use them for spacing also!! A couple of passes on the table saw for each slot, so it is not overly tight