All of my gargraves track work fine except 2 switches that seem to be a different style. Anyone have a fix for them shorting out when they pass over this style switch?\
First photo is the issue track... second photo is the okay track.
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A troubleshooting technique I learned here on the forum is to use pieces of electrical tape to cover the suspect portions of the center rail. Be sure to cover the side of the rail, where the backside if the wheels likely touch or arc to the center rail. (Where your arrows are)
If that works, without interfering with the center roller contact, you are all set. Otherwise you might carefully adjust the center rails inward, toward each other, to open the gap for the wheels to pass through, without using the tape on the center rail.
Hope that helps.
Will
O Scale Will posted:A troubleshooting technique I learned here on the forum is to use pieces of electrical tape to cover the suspect portions of the center rail. Be sure to cover the side of the rail, where the backside if the wheels likely touch or arc to the center rail. (Where your arrows are)
If that works, without interfering with the center roller contact, you are all set. Otherwise you might carefully adjust the center rails inward, toward each other, to open the gap for the wheels to pass through, without using the tape on the center rail.
Hope that helps.
Will
Can it really arc from the center to the ground outside rails?
Yes, (through the wheel) look where the arrows are on the pic above, and realize how close the back side if the flange is to the center rails when a car is pulled through the switch.
Are both the rails with the red arrows connected to one another electrically ? They both need center rail power by the looks of the switch. Just not at the same time. If they aren't connected in any way. You can turn each one on individually by using a relay. It looks like your wheels may be contacting them passing through the turnout. When going straight through the turnout. The rail to the left should be unpowered. When going through the curved portion. The one to the right should be unpowered. Switch position can control a relay which can power up each rail depending on how the switch is thrown. The only thing it's hard to tell is the center rail as it connects to your other track work on the right side. It looks like just the top portion may contact a wheel passing through. The tape mentioned is probably the best way to test.
I don't have an Gargraves turnouts. I have mostly Ross. I have an early version 3 way. Lots of rails and lots of problems. Everything is wired up as best you can. Trouble is some engines work perfectly and some just have a hard time navigating it. Diesels with 4 pickup rollers will crawl through it. Most steamers are fine but a few will through some arcs.
Dave_C posted:Are both the rails with the red arrows connected to one another electrically ? They both need center rail power by the looks of the switch. Just not at the same time. If they aren't connected in any way. You can turn each one on individually by using a relay. It looks like your wheels may be contacting them passing through the turnout. When going straight through the turnout. The rail to the left should be unpowered. When going through the curved portion. The one to the right should be unpowered. Switch position can control a relay which can power up each rail depending on how the switch is thrown. The only thing it's hard to tell is the center rail as it connects to your other track work on the right side. It looks like just the top portion may contact a wheel passing through. The tape mentioned is probably the best way to test.
I don't have an Gargraves turnouts. I have mostly Ross. I have an early version 3 way. Lots of rails and lots of problems. Everything is wired up as best you can. Trouble is some engines work perfectly and some just have a hard time navigating it. Diesels with 4 pickup rollers will crawl through it. Most steamers are fine but a few will through some arcs.
That's the weird thing the larger legacy diesel with 4 pickups sd-90 shorts out but my small ALCO s-2 crawls through with no problem.
Dave_C posted:Are both the rails with the red arrows connected to one another electrically ? They both need center rail power by the looks of the switch. Just not at the same time. If they aren't connected in any way.
Yes. They are connected by a tab on the switch to eachother.
Have issue with 042 GG switches shorting out. And ran trains in the dark spotted shorts used painters tape to cover shorts after numerous runs of different mfg engines in both directions removed tape and applied clear nail polish shellac to areas let dry and no more shorts. I was surprised by the number of places on the switches shorting with different mfg and vintage engines pick up rollers. Now to resolve frog jumping will try some sanding and smoothing of entry points.
One thing that is vital to prevent frog jumping is the spacing of the Guard Rails, AKA Check Rails. The inside of the opposite wheel rides against the Guard Rail and if it does not do it's job the wheel passing through the frog may split the frog. The shape of the flange is also important if it is too deep or too shallow plays a role. Reading the NMRA standards for track and wheels can give you insight though not a direct one for one comparison. j
