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As above, number of rails, size of flanges, type of couplers all have little to do with space required.  The way large locomotives go around tight corners is by having undersize cylinders, missing tailbeams, tenders ten feet back, and missing flanges.

A very nice 2-rail layout can operate on 0-27 curves if you either stick with small locomotives and short cars with wide swinging trucks and couplers or run NW2 Diesels.  Or allow gross inaccuracies in cylinders, tailbeams, etc.

Ted S posted:

Pete, Jim, nice work!  What are the room dimensions of your layout(s)?  Will you adopt me?  Or at least put me in your will!  

Thanks Ted! I'm not sure about the paperwork for adoption here in Canada though.  And believe me you don't want to inherit my debt... 

My layout is around the walls of a 39' x 25' basement, with one small peninsula. It's point-to-point. The yard and towns are built in mainly 5' x 24" and 36" sections connected by single track main on narrow shelves.  It's kinda like Roo's modules above, except minus his design and carpentry skills!

I highly recommend the sectional or modular approach. This layout is in its 4th basement now, and I can get it up and running in a couple of months, less if there's local help.  

CBQer posted:

Welcome home, brother.  My war was 50 years ago. Don't be worried about two rail. I don't know of too much three rail that can't be converted.

Dick

Now that Joe F has retired there is no one left to convert 3 rail steam locomotives. Especially those like Lionel and MTH that have captured axles. 

I wish there was someone to at least make custom 2 rail drivers. Then I would make a jig for quartering them but to my knowledge no one does this as well. So unless you are a good machinist don't invest in 3 rail steam with the idea of converting it to 2 rail.  

It is not difficult - just time consuming.  Stevenson has some tire sizes, and the used market still exists for all kinds of drivers.  I think I captured all of the 66" spoked USH drivers for my 17/64 cab forwards, but other sizes turn up regularly.

Joe offered a service at about a third of what it would cost for a non-hobbyist machinist trying to make a living.  I won't do it because it is drudgery even for my projects, and doing it for others would suck the joy out of the hobby.

But two rail is a mechanics' hobby, and once you learn how to do this stuff it can be very satisfying.  You can also buy RTR stuff brand new.

That’s good to know that the process isn’t difficult. My problem isn’t that I am lazy or need instant gratification but with my family situation I just don’t have the time to do it. However if I can retire in 5-7 years I will buy a lathe and try it. One of my goals is collecting at least one of every NYC steam locomotives produced. I have the A2 Berkshire in 3 rail. To my knowledge this wasn’t done in 2 rail brass but I may be wrong about that. This was the locomotive I wanted to convert. I also wanted to do a Pacific but that has been done in 2 rail so eventually I will just buy one. I will also keep a lookout for drivers. You never know I guess. 

Also … last month, Atlas stated here that all outstanding orders will be fulfilled this year. Which would include their 2-rail end-cab switchers …. MP15DC and the SW's.

If these would fit into your planned model railroad, these are perhaps the best running O scale engines, and require smaller curves. Very nicely detailed, too.

Have fun.

Last edited by CNJ Jim

There has been a machinist coming around to some of the local train gatherings who seems to be very interested in 0 scale trains and who has been doing some work for a few of the locals. It seems like it could be a win-win for him with Joe retiring. 

As a side note to Phil, I'm pretty sure the NYC A2 Berkshire was imported in brass by Overland. If it is the New York Central System engine that comes in Pullman green color, they seem to come up on e-bay from time to time.

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