Getting started with Kadee couplers?

You probably should wait until you get the loco, since KAdee now makes 3-4 different couplers - Overset, Underset, longshank, and the traditional 805s.

Probably the cars will be fine on that radius.   The loco may be the problem.   It will go around the curvers, but the center of the pilot may swing outside the edges of the track.

You may have to get creative in mounting the couplers on the loco.   Kadee used to include instructions on mounting the coupler without using the box to get a wider swing.   I think they still include these.   And an option to get the most swing would be to use the longshank coupler and install without the box.

Not hard at all. The coupler to use is the Kadee 806 which has a short shank and box. However, if you're willing to do a bit of work with a Dremel cut-off wheel, use a Kadee 805, but shave 1/8" off the rear of the box. This will clear the hi-rail coupler mounts on the power trucks and allow you more coupler swing. My ES44, Hybrid, SD70ACe's, Dash 9's and Dash 8's all handle 36" radius (O-72) curves with cars coupled.

I went Kadee all the way and have been using the 745 which are totally awesome!!!! Metal coupler shank and head, hidden springs, plastic base.  Perfect for me- I use the on all my engines and freight cars.  Best Kadee I've use so far as these are brand new .....

I forgot to mention the other two Kadees you can use which have a better appearance. The #740 can be used in place of the #805 and the #743 can be used in place of the #806. Same mounting and modifications as the 800 series, but the coupler looks a lot better. The mounting screws supplied by MTH are typically in the pouch with snow plow but in case they aren't there, use 2mmx8 screws (I bought a bag to have a round for Atlas cars.) I have some on a couple of recent engine purchases like this guy (I'm probably going cut the trip pins since I have a preference for manual uncoupling.)

Thanks again for the helpful advice, gents.  I will get started on the well cars right away, but I won't be able to post progress till I get the loco this summer (probably more like this fall or later?).  I'll share a pic when I do.

This is my first foray into 3RS.  I am not going to convert over everything I have, but I am also going to fix the pilots on my NS SD70M to run with the ES44AC.  

Martin,

Welcome to the fold!

All I can say is, you'll enjoy running a train with all Kadees.  You're right in that you don't HAVE to convert everything, but there's no reason you can't have a separate "Kadee" train just for this purpose.

I was looking at one of my engines the other night (can't recall which one) but I had actually cut the length of the coupler box almost in half, the coupler was hanging out of the end.  there was enough coupler box that the spring didn't fall out and the coupler pivoted like it should.  I may have done it because I didn't have any short-shank couplers in my box and took matters into my own hands

Gents,

Here's how the install of the well cars turned out with the #743 Kadee. 

(Now I can't wait to get that ES44AC to pull them)

Thanks again for the help, guys.

Martin

Make sure you get a coupler height gauge from Kadee as well. The coupler on that car looks a tad high. You want to make sure all your engines and cars are the same, correct height. 

Yeah I just guessed on the height. When I get my engine ill use that to set the standard

Martin, like LOS said...get the gauge.  Some of my engines have no shims while others had to have shims from 1/16" to 1/4" thick.  I don't recall anything that was too low (the body would have to be raised in that case).  I don't have the ES44AC, but someone should be able to tell you how thick the shim will be.

Get a Kadee height gage, or measure very accurately from the instructions.  

That way, if you start out setting all your couplers are the recommended height, everything will compatible down the road if you buy something new or sell something.  And a lot of stuff even 3 rail comes with built in pads or shims for the right height.   A lot of atlas cars come with shims in the package to set the height, particulary the USRA series boxcars (OSB, DS, and Steel rebuilt).

Ditto what prrjim stated!

It is absolutely IMPERATIVE to use that Kadee coupler height gauge! 

Martin,

Wonderful scratch-build. You will have no problem with that size and style of car behind an ES44 on 072 curves. I like medium-shank Kadees for the MTH models of these big G.E.s. With a short shank coupler, the cut levers will rub together in 072 and maybe 081 curves if you run two engines in a consist. The 745s are my favorite because they have the new coupler head and have the plastic draft gear box, which is more conveniently trimmed to fit (and you do have to trim it to fit the medium shank coupler on this engine).

The coupler height comes out just about right on the ES44s, so you won't need to shim. My "eyeball" sense is that you will find you have to shim the coupler down on your stack car just a little. (Buying or making a gauge is indeed a good idea).

RM

I have a few spots with 072/080 S curves. My first attempt at 805 Kadees on GGD cars found a problem only in these spots. Any particular type of kadee to try? 

There are two paths you can try:

1) Try the new "long shank" Kadee coupler assembly in their 700 series. Check the Kadee web site.

2)  File out the sides a bit in the metal 805 gear boxes. This will give the couplers more side to side swing.

As Hot Water stated, I filed out the sides of the draft gear box on all my GGD cars, and also ground down the front corners of the coupler shank itself (the wide part where the spring goes) to allow 072 curves. They didn't have the 700's series couplers yet when I did mine so I also drilled new holes in the coupler mounting pads to move the Kadees outward.

   Once you have them installed on the cars, a little touch up with flat black paint will hide any bare metal spots.

I've been trying to install Kadee's on Weaver and Atlas equipment, but apparently have been using the wrong screws.  I bought Kadee screws, part number 256, but they do not fit the threaded mounting holes.  The 256's were recommended by Kadee.  Can someone give the correct screw size  for use on Atlas and Weaver equipment and where they can be obtained?  Is there a Kadee part number so I can order them?

2/56 thread screw work fine with the Kadee's but the cars may be tapped for a metric thread...

I've never trusted whatever's on the cars and just re-tapped them for 2/56 and been done with it.

Thanks very much for the info.  That definitely helps!

I thought weaver cars had plastic floors? There not threaded. Are the newer cars different?

Weaver cars do have plastic floors, and their coupler mounting "locator" holes are NOT threaded. That is why I have always used #2 self taping "sheet metal" screws to mount Kadee couplers.