glue

I use a good quality CA (super glue). I use the thin for parts that fit well and thick CA for parts that have gaps that I can't correct. Get a kicker/accelerator to speed the process along. Make sure you lightly sand the castings with a fine grit sandpaper before you glue them together to remove casting release agents and oxidation.

Here are the glues I have used recently. The Loctite is a thin glue, the Gorilla is thick and the bottle on the left is the accelerator. In the foreground are three N-scale metal models I built with these glues. Zap and Pacer are also very good CA's that you can find at a good hobby shop.

Mike D,

   You covered all with the Big 3!

PCRR/Dave

Gorilla glue with blue cap......I buy it at my son's Rite Aid......hobby shop is 3 hour drive so happy the Gorilla works well. 

Walthers makes a product they call "GOO"! Comes in a tube. It will hold those stakes firmly, yet if you ever want to remove them, you can!!

Fred (Fredstrains) 

Metal to metal, I'd use JB Weld

-Roger

Gentlemen-----I would like to thank you for your time and advice.   Bob Ottosen      ODD-D

JB Weld is an epoxy glue with metal particles for filler.  For metal to metal a 5 min epoxy will work fine. 

If you need to rebuild a part with missing sections use an epoxy putty that will not run like J B Weld.  Two good ones are MarineTex and Devcon.  Both have been used to repair cracked engine blocks and broken aluminum castings on outboards and I/O drives in the field or up the river.

Charlie