Glue for ALL Reasons

There is: http://www.thistothat.com/

However, it lacks specificity of materials.  As such, collecting your own experience and asking others to gain their 1st hand experience to build your own experience of knowledge is probably something that you will have to pursue at some level.

I've found that for the most part, Gorilla Glue works on all those...

Here's one...

Glue Guide Link

It's specific to this manufacturer, pretty much.  I had Dave Gauss add this UK company to the Scenery Source List.  In a separate thread I expressed my enthusiasm for one of their bonding agents, Super 'Phatic Glue, that I've found to be superb for bonding wood to plastic. 

Hope it helps.  Martin's list is another.  I'm sure there are others that'll pop up.  I've not Googled this....maybe something else of use is lurking out there?

FWIW, always...

KD

If you only had one adhesive, epoxy would work on all items on your list but in many cases there would be better alternatives. You can pretty much cross off nylon, delrin, polypropylene, polyethylene from your list. I have yet to find any adhesive that works with these.

Pete

Try gluing polyethylene, polypropylene, teflon to each other or to other materials.  Some plastics just are a PITA to "glue" to anything.

Delrin is an annoyance, but a mix of Goo and CA will work........almost always.

There are specific epoxies for polyethylene; I've got a stack of parts that were laser cut in PE and some of an epoxy for PE that I want to test out.  I've been told the only other option is to actually "weld" it together.

I've glued teflon flex tubing to glass for an atmospheric hydrogenator - no idea what that stuff was other than it was a black rob that took a heat gun to apply.

This works fantastic for me.  Start with walthers goo.  Apply it to both surfaces and let sit for about 3 minutes and then push the two surfaces together.  This will hold well for general  glue but for stubborn or gluing things like the plastic rail guides in gargraves switches after you mate the two surfaces put superglue along the side of the glue.  When this sets up like overnight the superglue turns the goo to a rock and it is almost impossible to move the joint and usually will have the plastic itself break before the joint.  I have used this to join tiny things like brass castings to a brass loco and it is tighter than the solder joint.

Been doing that for a long time now, and actually, you don't have to even wait that long!

 
Goo on one surface and CA on the other and it's instant contact cement - sandwiching the CA works as well.  Rarely do I have to wait more than a few minutes after the joint is assemble before I can work with it.

Whether it works adequately on PE or teflon, I have yet to test.

OK, i haven't had the opportunity to try this on Teflon, Delrin or any of the other super slick materials, but for everything else where strength is needed i've been using Loctite 380. It was suggested by GRJ here in doing the coil coupler conversion on the WBB 44 ton switcher. i get it from an industrial supply house. Is it strong? On one joint i needed to take apart (that i misaligned) i ended up sawing it apart with a Zona saw! Good stuff.

jackson

I don't know how it works on stuff like Teflon or Delrin, as most stuff doesn't work on those.  I do know that my biggest complaint with Loctite 380 is if you ever have to take the joint apart, good luck!

Thanks Everyone for ALL the comments! Much appreciated! Terry

Late as usual, but I did just want to add a comment that may bear on just what a "glue"

is.

I am sure that most everyone here knows this, but since the "universal" question was asked:

- A glue is a substance that holds similar or dissimilar materials together with minimal chemical interaction with the materials being joined.

- A "glue" that is a solvent actually interacts with the materials being joined. Typically these are the same or chemically similar materials, obviously. Plastic cement (such as Testors) and styrene is the most common and well-known situation in our world. The materials are actually dissolved and form one piece after the solvent has dissipated. That is one reason that these joints are so strong. They aren't "stuck together"; they are one piece at this point, when enough solvent is used.

Not a great insight, but as long as you asked...knowledge is power.