Glue for Trestle construction, FINAL photos of progress

Hi Roger

I am a big fan of the Gorilla Wood Glue

http://www.zorotools.com/g/00064182/k-G1050917?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw={keyword}&gclid=CKPioPvF_rsCFSho7AodGBYAEA

This works well for me

I used CA gell, than a shot of accellrator. 

+1

I would use carpenter's glue, for wood on wood, as you have done,  but for other connections of wood to metal or other materials, I would use two part epoxy.

I'll second Gorilla Wood Glue.  It is pretty amazing.  But carpenters glue is fine, too.

Thanks guys, I just wanted to double check with everyone before progressing further.

Titebond III (not I or II) - grabs in minutes, super-strong when cured, dries to a dark brown that looks good even if it gets out onto a few places it shouldn't, much less expensive than super-glues.

Jim

+2

Roger.....I think the suggestions above all  have their merits but I vote for Titebond III as Jim mentions above.  Another great glue is the Gorilla glue.  I used Gorilla Superglue on my train sheds, which are all wood, and in a matter of seconds they bonded and were dry...ready for immediate use. 

Alan

With any wood, I use yellow wood glue.  but I never stain it beforehand: I figure maybe the glue works better on virgin wood - no proof of that but I have never had problems using yellow glue on raw wood that is well fitted and clamped.  Never expect to.

I ran out of my regular CA ZAP instant glue one night. I had a back-up as the hobby shop is 3 hours away.....and I build in the middle of the night sometimes....but I opened it and is was hard as a rock.....so I asked my son who runs a Rite-Aid if they stocked any 'instant' glue. He brought me home a bottle of Gorilla CA instant gel. GREAT stuff....I have now converted to it for most things.

My dad was a carpenter and he always used a powered wood glue, but that was back between 1960-80 and I don't recall what brand it was.  I do recall that he mixed it with water and it was so strong the wood would break before the joint broke.

I'm using CA less and less, it doesn't get into the wood like I want and have had wood and plastic joints come apart.  The Titebond III sounds like a winner!

I have used Liquid Nails for wood construction projects before.  Don't know if it comes in small tubes for model work.  I glued a 2x4 to concrete once when I built a wall.  Then I had to move that wall a few inches.  I had to use a sledge hammer on it and couldn't move that 2x4.  All I did was just break up the 2x4 in chunks.  I ended up having to cut it off the floor with a Sawzall.

Rick

Roger,

I like to use two types of glue on things that may have to take a beating or cannot be welded together like styrene. On a wood trestle, I would use wood ( carpenters) glue and back it up with CA where possible.

When I build Korber kits that were constructed of urethane plastic, I use CA and a glue gun. I have found this to be an effective way of keeping these type of kits together.

Good luck and have fun constructing the bridge.

Alan Graziano

Wood to wood -- Carpenter's glue.  With the one exception being if there is end grain in a joint.  Then it's Goo on the end grain and CA on the other surface.

When using carpenters wood glue, how do you clamp all those little pieces overnight until the glue sets?

Clem

I have to second Alan as I use and recommend Gorilla Super Glue on my ELevated bridge system and on the train sheds. I would recommend that it be used on unpainted or unstained surfaces though.

 I use a good yellow wood glue like Titebond 2 or 3 on all of my other bridges with great success. I have experimented w Gorilla wood glue which works well however dislike the expansion process as it cures.

jim r from bridgeboss.com

I have about a dozen small spring clamps - Home Depot.

Also have a couple of dozen cloths pins.

Also, if I can lay it flat, then on the glass work surface it goes with a 1x12 on top with a gallon paint can on top of that. 

I might also put a steel wire pin through some joints for reinforcement and cover the ends over with an nbw casting later.  I also have a handful of lead bricks,

Clem K

A variety of clamps, spring clothes pins, rubber bands and I drill mini holes for inserting cut-off wire brads as dowels.

Also use weights on joints if assembling single components off site.

I agree with all of your suggestions, small plastic clamps, gallon paint cans, bricks, weights, etc.

see examples below.

jim r from bridgeboss.com

Guys, thanks again for all of your suggestions.

Just wanted to thank everyone for their suggestions on the glue. Just wanted to show you that I took your suggestions and have started the trestle build. Picture of the trestle upside down right now.

Roger, that is impressive. What type of glue did you end up using?

jim r

Tite Bond III.

Works unbelievable for me.

The trestle looks great, Roger.

I'm glad the Titebond III worked out for you. I have become a real fan of the stuff for all wood or cardstock projects.

Jim

As Roger has done, you should always stain wood prior to assembly. If you glue it first then the glue seals the wood, keeping the stain from penetrating and you'll end up with spots of bare wood showing.

That's quite a trestle!

The RC guys build entire flying airplanes with CA except on high-load areas and then they use epoxy. I use Aleen's tacky glue for most of the wood projects too. CA is fast, but it is somewhat brittle and will break on shock loads. Wood glues, all of them, using PVA are somewhat flexible when cured and are more forgiving. most wood glues need to be clamped. CA doesn't really have to be other than to hold it still until it cures.

Incidentally, if you want to increase the shelf-life of CA, put it in the freezer. It doesn't freeze, but doesn't react either. CA cures by moisture in the air. It gradually absorbs this when in the bottle being used and will lose its ability to cure properly. Freezing extends the shelf life indefinitely. In fact, that's how they manufacture it; in equipment that's very cold. Can you imagine if that stuff set up in the machinery?

Wow!  Very impressive.  Please post updated pictures.  I build a long curved wooden trestle--f feet long, 13 inches at highest point and it took over 50 hours.  I can't imagine how much time you'll have invested in that trestle!  Wow again!

John,

Since you ask, here is the "finished" trestle waiting for the 1st trial fitting. Still a lot of work to go, but very enjoyable for this old man.

I say "finished" as I am sure I will still need to make some adjustments.

How do most of you mount the trestle to your layout base?  It looks like Rogers are uneven, rough in and then shim or ?  Cover the base then with some kind of ground scenery? 

Roger

Looks GREAT !!!!! cant wait for the photo of it in place

Steve

Oh, MY!  That looks incredible!  Great job.

I can't wait to build one someday.  

Jim does accelerator work on this? I kinda like instant stuff.

Clem

Clem,

No, it's a carpenter's glue - not a CA, so no accelerators.

I like it for its superior grab over other carpenter's glues, its dark color when dry, and its low price compared to the CA/accelerator route. I just try to prevent glue from becoming the most expensive part of a project.

Jim

The Titebond III dries probably in less than 30 minutes. Hold very tight in about 15 minutes.

Roger...

I almost missed these pictures!!  ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL my Friend!!  What a fantastic looking trestle and I can't wait to see it in person when we come visit.   Is it going where I think it is???..back in the corner at the end of the main walkway?  How tall is it and did you use a plan or freelance it??  WOW..I am so impressed!

Alan

Thanks Alan,

Yes it is going into the corner. It is 38" tall at the tallest point. I used a Black Bear template for the bents. Other than that it is like the rest of the layout "freelance".

Looking forward to seeing you all in about 3 weeks. Stay warm buddy.

Rockler woodworking stores have a newer CA glue made for wood working.  Its called NEXABOND.  There are a few types with different open times.  I think the one I've been using has a 3-5 minute open time.

Elmer's yellow wood glue use on truss and plate girder bridge construction. I believe that Elmer's has a gel wood glue and they offer a wood glue that accepts staining/painting.