Got repaired engine back from MTH

a lot of couplers are problematic I use these to keep them shut you never even see them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140752496006

A new coupler is cheap, and you can also give it a shot of dry lube to see if that helps.

Those dog bow rubbers look "ok" however what is the shelf life of them?

it is an entertains idea though, just not sure what Pip, my Jack Russel would 

make of me buying bows. I already told him I was gonna put him in a Tu Tu for

Halloween!!

Is dry lube graphite, or a similar substance?

I have had some on couplers for three years. 

I buy old flat cars and the couplers are the only thing wrong so I put on the rubber bands.

If the armature plate is metal, take a pair of long nose pliers and bend it up.  It will put more pressure on the coupler and not pop open.

Bob

Bob, the coupler in question is an electrocoupler.

Yes, graphite is what I use, but it is messy if you're not careful.  It works great, which is why I use it.

John.

I looked at the MTH Mohawks and they all had mechanical couplers.  Couldn't find one with electrocouplers.  Also looked at the Madison cars.  All with mechanical couplers.

Bob

Perhaps that's what I get for assuming.   If it's a mechanical coupler, I'd just replace the spring if lub didn't fix it.

For T&P the 30-1114 is PS-1 but they made a 30-1303 in 2003 which is PS-2 with EM coupler.

Doesn't the PS/1 have an electrocoupler?

Both the 30-1114-0 and 30-1114-1 locomotives have electrocouplers according to the parts breakdown on MTH: http://www.mthtrains.com/searc...esolr_search/30-1114

It is the 30-1114-1.  Mechanical couplers on both tender and cars.  The problem with the car (observation) is that the coupler sagged and the uncoupling device dragged on the center rail.  All of the passenger cars tend to uncouple when in motion.  I tried oil and now I'll try graphite.  My concern is that if I replace the couplers with new, they will have the same flaws.

I have a few older that drag the thumbtack on the rails now and then. I cut a dot of duck tape and put on the bottom of the tack, no more issues.

I also have a few that pull open under heavy load, those I wired shut with a twist tie wire. I have considered the little rubber bands but haven't bought any yet.

And bending the metal strip for more spring action works on some older cars.

Before you try graphite, use a cleaner to clean all the oil out, they don't mix that well.

John, Yes it does, I got sucked into the mechanical only post line, which was the -0 version with DCRU/Whistle.  Both the PS-1 and the PS-2 version have the EM couplers.