hi everyone. So I’m a little unfamiliar with troubleshooting ERR & the gunnrunner products. I bought this T1 with an ERR upgrade & the gunrunner super chuffer & chuff generator already installed. It used to chuff but now it stopped working. It’s not chuffing at all and I just want to see if I’m reprogramming it right.
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You do not remove any wire from the tach reader. Also the flywheel does not get turned 1/4. After you connect the jumper wire then spin the flywheel as many times needed to move the actual drive wheels 1/4 turn. That equals 4 chuffs. Then cut the jumper. You should be set. I’m sure GRJ will help you further if needed.
@romiller49 posted:You do not remove any wire from the tach reader. Also the flywheel does not get turned 1/4. After you connect the jumper wire then spin the flywheel as many times needed to move the actual drive wheels 1/4 turn. That equals 4 chuffs. Then cut the jumper. You should be set. I’m sure GRJ will help you further if needed.
Hi, I just tried this and still no chuffs. Do I need to be in program or run? Does that matter?
The C-G calibration doesn't care what mode you're in, all it needs is power and being able to manipulate the config jumper.
Note there is a specific sequence that has to be followed for the calibration.
You should first verify that the C-G is reading the tach strip by rotating the flywheel and seeing that the LED blinks for ever stripe. There is a procedure to reset to sensor test mode in the instructions Note that the C-G is shipped with sensor test mode active.
To return to sensor test mode, do the following:
You should be in sensor test mode to check the tach sensor at this point. Each strip should blink the led as it passes.
If the sensor reading test is successful, do the following:
That completes the calibration, when you power up, you should have chuffs at about 1/4 a rev of the drivers. Sometimes it's necessary to do this procedure a couple of times to get it right, it's easy for the flywheel to move enough between finger rotations to add extra counts.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:The C-G calibration doesn't care what mode you're in, all it needs is power and being able to manipulate the config jumper.
Note there is a specific sequence that has to be followed for the calibration.
You should first verify that the C-G is reading the tach strip by rotating the flywheel and seeing that the LED blinks for ever stripe. There is a procedure to reset to sensor test mode in the instructions Note that the C-G is shipped with sensor test mode active.
To return to sensor test mode, do the following:
- Power off
- Add the cal jumper
- Power on, LED comes on solid
- Remove the cal jumper without moving the flywheel
- Power off
You should be in sensor test mode to check the tach sensor at this point. Each strip should blink the led as it passes.
If the sensor reading test is successful, do the following:
- Power Off.
- Connect the cal jumper
- Power On, LED is on constant
- Rotate the flywheel to give a quarter turn to the drivers
- Remove the cal jumper (power still on!)
- The LED should go out
- Power Off
That completes the calibration, when you power up, you should have chuffs at about 1/4 a rev of the drivers. Sometimes it's necessary to do this procedure a couple of times to get it right, it's easy for the flywheel to move enough between finger rotations to add extra counts.
Ok I just tried putting it in sensor test mode. The LED is not blinking. And just to clarify the final step for sensor test mode. Power off, then each strip should blink the LED?
Correct, you need to get the sensor reading the tach strip before you'll ever get chuffs. The most common issue here is the sensor spacing, it should be from .8mm to 1mm from the tach tape. The next issue is I've had a few folks put the sensor in backwards, that doesn't work. 
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Correct, you need to get the sensor reading the tach strip before you'll ever get chuffs. The most common issue here is the sensor spacing, it should be from .8mm to 1mm from the tach tape. The next issue is I've had a few folks put the sensor in backwards, that doesn't work.
Backward & not work!! Imagine that lol, well I tried again and moved it closer to the tape to get that exact .8-1mm spacing and I’m still not getting any chuffs. Im wondering if my sensor went bad. It was working fine until yesterday; it became erratic, then just stopped working.
Did you reset to sensor test mode and see if you're reading the tach stripes? Do that before you worry about chuffs. Once you are reading the stripes, then calibrate it and see if you get chuffs.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Did you reset to sensor test mode and see if you're reading the tach stripes? Do that before you worry about chuffs. Once you are reading the stripes, then calibrate it and see if you get chuffs.
Yes I did try resetting the sensor to see if it’s reading tach strips. It’s not. I followed the steps to reset, powered down them moved the flywheel..... no blinks
In that case, assuming the wiring is correct, the C-G has been killed.
Ok, I thought so cause it did work a day ago. Not sure what killed it, But thanks so much for chiming In & helping me sort this out.
That's very unusual that it would work normally and with no changes stop working. That would be a first out of hundreds shipped. Usually, they die because of mis-wiring or shorting a wire to the frame.
Does the LED ever light, like in CAL mode? Does it go out when you remove the cal jumper? Just trying to figure if the uP is alive.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:That's very unusual that it would work normally and with no changes stop working. That would be a first out of hundreds shipped. Usually, they die because of mis-wiring or shorting a wire to the frame.
Does the LED ever light, like in CAL mode? Does it go out when you remove the cal jumper? Just trying to figure if the uP is alive.
The led does light. Sometimes when I run the engine Very slowly the led will go out and the engine will stall. I will also sometimes get a random single chuff
I also double checked the wiring.... it’s wired correctly
The light comes on regardless of wether the jumper is in place or not. Does that matter?
If the light is on all the time, even when you remove the jumper with power on, then the uP isn't alive, that's what I'm trying to determine.
The light stays on even when I remove the jumper. What is the uP?
Microprocessor, it's the chip with 8 leads in the center of the board. It sounds like it's out to lunch from the description.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Microprocessor, it's the chip with 8 leads in the center of the board. It sounds like it's out to lunch from the description.
That little guy I circled is the uP? Also notice the red led... it’s always on
If the calibration jumper is installed, it'll always be on.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:If the calibration jumper is installed, it'll always be on.
The jumper is not installed
Then I'm afraid the C-G is dead, that's the only reason a working one would have that jumper installed. Any chance you can send it back to me, I'd like to see what happened?
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Then I'm afraid the C-G is dead, that's the only reason a working one would have that jumper installed. Any chance you can send it back to me, I'd like to see what happened?
Sure, just need a shipping address
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