Have you mounted Z-stuff switch machines under the table?

Sandy,

I have mounted 3 DZ 1000 switch machines under my table using RIP-RAP (Spelling?) mounts.   These have all the parts needed, including a "piano wire", and allow the machine mounting to be either vertical or horizontal.  My DZs are mounted vertically.  I originally wanted to do this with all my switches (last count was 22), but installing them was anything but a piece of cake for me.   Even with my wife's help, we both invented some new words.   Once installed, they worked fine.

Good luck.

Bill

Bill,  Thanks.  Where did you get the RIP-RAP mounts from?  I tried to Google them to no avail.  Have you heard of any that are easier to mount?

Thanks!

do you have any pictures?

The name of the product is Rix Rax, Steve sells them(Ross). They come with a specific tension wire that bends back when engines are traveling the opposite way of the through. (Thats if you dont hook up the Non derail wire from the switch motor.) The fastest way to mount them is to bend a 90  elbow on each end of the throw rod  then drop them down through the switchthrow arm form above layout.Once you get the undermount in the correct location to throw the switch there is usaully 1" to 2" of extra throw rod above the layout. Snip it off and bend another 90 even with the top of the track.This way in the rare event the rod comes loose from the switch motor it wont fall to the floor.

 Rix rax can be used with ANY  switch motor, there is also adaptors available to turn the switch motor horizontal.

I was always looking for someone to do what you are doing,but  with the Atlas switchmotors . Never made sense to me to want the best looking track then have a long motor right next to it. I guess its mostly people dont want to deal with the aggrevation .

I think you're looking for a Rix Rax under-table machine mount. You mount the DZ upright with a wire through the benchwork. The mount is shown here:

http://www.rixproducts.com/6280001.htm

Hope this helps.

Sandy, my apologies for the name.  After posting, I realized the name was wrong.

Bill

Bill,

Nothing to apologize for.  You pointed me in a useful direction.

Thanks,
Sandy

On the web site it looks like there are a few possible products that meet your description.  Which of these would be most appropriate for DZ-2500 and an Atlas switch?

628-0001   Rix Rax  $3.99

628-0005 Rix Rax Flat (under layout Mtg.Bkt. 3.99

628-0007 Rix Ajusto Pad 3.25

628-0021 Rix Rax 2 Under layout Mtg. Bkt. 3.99

Are any of them easier to adjust?

Thanks,
Sandy

I’ve mounted 32 DZ-2500s underneath the table on my layout.   I built my own mounts because I needed them as flat underneath the table as possible for clearance reasons.   The base is .060 white styrene plastic, with two pieces of 1/4“ square basswood super-glued to it.   The basswood piece that guides the linkage has a piece of 1/16“ brass tubing inserted so that the piano wire linkage moves smoothly and doesn’t wear a groove in the basswood.  I cut small slots in the white styrene base so that it can be screwed to the underside of the layout plywood and have a bit of adjustability.  All-in-all, the mounts were easy to build, and I made them in batches of 6 to 8 as I bought the DZ-2500s.

I experimented with .039, .032, .025, and .020 piano wire and found that the .025 has the right balance of stiffness and flexibility to drive my Gargraves and Ross switches.  Piano wire is available in 3’ lengths from a lot of hobby shops, including my local shop.

Here's what it looks like mounted underneath my layout:

Here's a close view of the linkage when not mounted under the table:

I use R/C aircraft servos for under the table switch machines but this will be the same for the DZ's . If you have a lot of them go to lowes get a 24 inch by 24 inch piece of sheet metal,and some #4 sheet metal screws .

Cut a rectangle with tin snips and bend a one inch flange on it and drill a 1/16 hole in the flanged part for your wire to stick up thru.
drill 2 holes on each side to mount it( If you have a drill press this goes very fast)
For wire I use 0.032 TIG welding wire it's stainless steel and stiff as heck

Try to center your switch machine in the hole in the table as best you can then I do this to both help with alignment and make the switch non- derailing
Drill a second hole in the switch machine arm. if your using 0.032 TIG wire a 3/32 bit will do it . now leaving about a half inch extra wrap the wire around a medium handle X-Acto knife about 2 or 3 turns is fine this gives the switch rod a little spring.

Now bend a 90 on that half inch extra of wire and put it thru the first hole bend a "U" shape with needle nose and put it thru the second hole . the extra sticking out of the second hole gets bent against the switch arm this keeps your spring from turning
remember the switch points on any Ross switch only move about a quarter of an inch.

The spring allows for a little give but and engine coming the other way can just drive thru the switch but don't worry there's plenty of pressure there to keep the wheels from picking the switch

This is one of my first switch motors I found it works better with a few more turns on the wire . That motor is smaller than a quarter.
If you make a template for your mount bracket it goes really fast and will be considerably cheaper than the Rix Rax mount