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Those are good old twin-coil switch machines that have been around for decades. The machine is mounted on a Tortoise-style bracket, which you may choose not to use.

The three connections on the right in your photo are the connections for throwing the machine back and forth. 12 to 18 volts AC or DC will work just fine.  The center terminal is the common connection and the others are the power to throw the switch each way. You must use momentary contact buttons/switches with these machines. You press the button which applies power to the coil, the switch moves and you let off the button to stop the current flow.

The multiple contacts on the left can be used to switch track power, set a signal aspect, turn on a light on a control panel or any other use you can envision.

You got a good buy.

Last edited by Rich Melvin

I have several of these mounted on the layout at my parents'. They are mounted vertically under the table. The wire sticks up through the table, and into the hole in the switch throw bar. It is set up so that when the switch is thrown, the top end of the wire moves the distance needed to close the switch points + maybe 1/8 to 3/16" extra. This way, the natural springiness of the wire being deflected to the side provides tension to keep the points in place. I made my own brackets, but the bracket in your picture appears to be designed for the same sort of mounting.

swmachine

Here is one on the layout I am building now. It is mounted in a similar way, but horizontally. This is in a staging area, so no one will have to see the hack job I did on the fastrack switch

20150214_223340

You can see that I have the extra contacts wired up (I am doing automatic routing in conventional), but if you are going to use DCS, I think you need only worry about the three contacts on the right side, right next the the coil. I do not know what the guys are talking about who are telling you these have to be run on DC, unless there is something very different about NJ machines.  Mine are all from Kemtron and Pacific Fast Mail, and they work fine on about 14 volts AC. The main thing is to be sure that the power is applied only for the short time it takes to throw the switch, because these will burn out if powered continuously.

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You made a good buy.  I had a dozen of them on my old layout but went to Z-Stuff on my new layout because they are easier to wire and come with their own push buttons.  I wish I had kept the old NJs because they are very reliable.  Never had one fail.  I did save three of them and plan to use them in far away places I absolutely don't want a failure.

Dennis

Last edited by Dennis

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