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I was running and testing the latest version of my layout (no scenery yet), of which I run both Legacy/TMCC and DCS, using both remotes and a track power feed for each (one for Legacy/TMCC and one for DCS). Obviously, legacy power is off the wall outlet to the base, with the black wire (ground) to its own power feed track piece, and DCS via a MTH Z-1000 power brick into and out of the TIU and then into its own power feed track piece using red and black wires (power and ground).

Everything runs perfect, both Lionel TMCC/Legacy and MTH DCS locos with RMT passenger cars, all on the same layout.

However, I noticed all of my switches are at least "warm" on "one end" of the switch/turnout, and with one being kind of "hot" on one end of the turnout/switch.

Is this normal for Lionel Fastrack switches to be warm or hot to the touch on one end of each turnout/switch piece?

Last edited by chipset
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Chipset,

    This same thing happend to me before I got rid of my FasTrack switches and returned to the old Lionel 711's. With your FT switches you need to power your switches from their own transformer, take them off of the track power, the low voltage switches work better adjusted with their own power supply, I used my old ZW so I could adjust the required power needed to run the switches correctly, and yet not over heat them.  I even did this with my old 711's, they were just the oppsite and drew massive power to opperate correctly, when using track power.  Your FT low voltage  switches have a reverse problem, they require only a little power to operate correctly,

over heating them is definitly not a good idea.

PCRR/Dave

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

runrunner,

    John if you are running track power and upped your power more you might experience the same problem, if your FT switches are powered remotely with correct power this never happens.  This happened with 2 of our FT switches when using track power, I could not turn down the track power, cause the old 711 type switches would not work at all, with so little power.   Discovered using both kinds of switches on the same track power was not really a good engineering idea.

PCRR/Dave

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

I only use 6 remote switches currently. The switch should operate just fine when powered through the track. Over the years I  have read a few times that some people had had issues with heat. But since I do not power through my track I can not give you any first hand information.

 

I do power mine with a separate power supply. I did this mainly because my layout is set up to run both command and conventional. While the switch should work just fine between 8 and 18 volts sometimes running conventional I am below the 5 volts.

 

Another thing I like is that by powering them separately I have more power for those longer passenger trains with all the lights. A little positive is that when I am just looping the trains and not doing any switching I do not have to power up the switches. While the LED should last the life of the switch I feel not powering them when they are not needed is just a plus.

Here is an update, I did some re-arranging and although some switches are still "warm" in places, none are "hot" like before.

Some are hot on the metal middle piece? Not sure what its called, others on one end or the other on the actual tracks, but like I said "warm" but no longer hot.

I will take some pics and post asap, remember this is a Legacy/TMCC and DCS set up.

IMG_0279

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Last edited by chipset

Nicola,

   Your exact experience with the Command Control FasTrack Switches is exactly why I am now looking at them, very seriously.  This will be a big investment for me because I am total DCS right now, and will need the TMCC/Legacy light in addition to the Lionel CC switches.  If I were Chipset and ran both control systems already, I would definitely be looking into them big time.  I run a lot of Tin Plate trains and from my understanding the CC switches accommodate most all Tin Plate which is why I started looking at these switches in the 1st place.  Now just where to purchase is going to be the next question.  Do I purchase at Bill & Walts my local LHS or purchase on line.

Would like to hear some feed back on where I should purchase, for the best price and

replacement guarantee.  Things are changing so fast in our hobby now that keeping up with this kind of stuff is, starting to get away from me.

PCRR/Dave

1) You said the tracks are powered by both Legacy and DCS thru a Z-1000.  Any possibility that the 2 different voltage sources are summing the voltage?  Do they get warm if you just use Legacy/TMCC or just use DCS?

 

2) Besides the switch remotes are any other wires connected to the switches?  Like an AIU to parallel control the switches?

 

Intrigued....

 

Ed

Originally Posted by eddiem:

1) You said the tracks are powered by both Legacy and DCS thru a Z-1000.  Any possibility that the 2 different voltage sources are summing the voltage?  Do they get warm if you just use Legacy/TMCC or just use DCS?

 

2) Besides the switch remotes are any other wires connected to the switches?  Like an AIU to parallel control the switches?

 

Intrigued....

 

Ed

I have not tried one at a time, that would be a good test.

No AIU.

Originally Posted by Renovo PRR:

Here is some interesting information. I do not know how this applies to your problem but at least it is some info tho think about.

 

http://lionelllc.wordpress.com...or-constant-voltage/

Does anyone know which is the correct wiring for aux power?  This doc says remove the jumper and connect the hot wire only, while the manual for the ft switches says remove the jumper and connect both the hot and common wires.

Originally Posted by MrMoe50:
Originally Posted by Renovo PRR:

Here is some interesting information. I do not know how this applies to your problem but at least it is some info tho think about.

 

http://lionelllc.wordpress.com...or-constant-voltage/

Does anyone know which is the correct wiring for aux power?  This doc says remove the jumper and connect the hot wire only, while the manual for the ft switches says remove the jumper and connect both the hot and common wires.

One presumes the common is common all around for that wiring.  Obviously, if your aux power doesn't share track common, you'd have to wire it as well.

I have 11 remote fastrack switches on my layout all powered by track power and none of them have gotten warm or hot ever.  I run mostly 18V CC and sometimes conventional with post war.

 

If running command control where the power is always on everywhere, it just doesn't make sense to not use track power since they draw so little power for a split second when you activate them.  I can see the argument running conventionally where you may have a line or spur powered down and thus a turnout can't be thrown in that situation, but its just way easier and less to wire using the track power with fastrack.

 

They even throw with only minimum of power on the track as well.

 
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