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Well I must say I have had the curse come and go. And last night it returned. I brought down from the shelf my Pennsy K line K4 with cruise. Hooked up my new MTH heavy weight passenger cars. Dialed up the voltage from the ZW-L and everything was ok. 5 minutes later the Lionel fast acting breaker went off. Hmm. too many lighted passenger cars maybe?

No. It was the Kline K4 shorting out. So I removed the tender. Put on a separate track. Sound came on and I could operate the whistle and bell via Cab 2 without the engine. Strange? but worked ok.

Next put engine on and the short continued.

Opened it up and the board near the cab smelled like burnt electronics. Great I thought.

I believe this is the integrated cruise and motor driver board? Flipped it over and it was charred around one of the Triacs.

Question. Are K line electronics known to spontaneously short out? Nothing was off the track.

I would like to remove these boards and replace them with a more stable circuit board but keep them TMCC.

Does ERR have a plug and play replacement.

If I cry "Uncle" Who could help me repair this locomotive with upgraded ERR boards? How much would this cost?

My biggest fear is I buy the replacement K line board and it fries itself out again....I may have not have found the root of the curse. The R2 board was fine.

I noticed if I unplug the board the short discontinues and the locomotive lights come on.

Help!

 

 

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If this engine had K-Line cruise there would be a vaned sensor on the flywheel? If so its not worth looking for a replacement board. An ERR Cruise M would be the best alternative. I agree its not a typical failure mode though. To verify your motor is OK you could disconnect it from any circuitry and hook a battery or DC power pack to it and see if it turns.

 

Pete

 

 

The K-Line driver board can be replaced with the ERR Cruise Commander M, it's a pretty easy swap and will solve your issue.  Obviously, I'd check and make sure the motor is good and it's leads are not shorted to the frame before replacing the electronics.

 

I'd probably recommend the ERR route and not going with another unsupported K-Line board.

 

I have a few K-Line locomotives, none have gone up in smoke.

 

now the aft board of that. The motor driver board looked and smelled burned.

 

Again, it is odd this board just toasted itself just sitting there? Never had one do this.

 

Notice how the black wire just melted on top of the board itself. What would cause this?

The motor was not binding and the throttle was never turned on.

 

 

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Here is a picture of the connector I removed and the short was eliminated. All the locomotive lights came on. Is this main power supply?

I also notice in this picture the cruise switch wire has come loose. (This I believe was attached when I opened it).

 

 Below is another picture of the fried board

 

 

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So reading over the post. I have a Lionel Union Pacific B unit powered which I will never use... cannot find the A-A units. Can I swap the motor driver board out of this unit and plug into this one? Its missing an R2 board anyway.

 

Will the K line R2 board be compatible? This later K line engine I believe had 100 speed steps... and ran awkwardly with a cab 2 throttle.

I am thinking since I am ordering from ERR just to upgrade both the R2/R4 and a new motor driver board with cruise.

 

Originally Posted by Boxcar Bill:

B&O Bill,

 

  I think I can still smell the oder of the magic smoke. Yours was not the first and J daddy's will definitely not be the last even though the numbers are dwindling.

 

Bill

Bill,

You have that right. The whole basement stunk of a burnt board. Even my hands and clothes...

So have you seen this on other K line engines? Did a board replacement nixs it?

thanks,

Last edited by J Daddy

yeah, last board I tried to repair it burnt the copper strips up so bad it warped the board and burned the copper strips right out of it.

 

So Dan, should I order two?

 

Odd thing is it does not look like a plug and play?

My board vrs ERR board... I feel like Greg Brady here buying his first car...

what are all these extra connections fur?

 

 

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The 4 pin black molex connector is for track power (red-black) and motor power. The 4 pin white connector just gets swapped from the K-Line to Cruise M. I think there is direction information on that connector. Serial Data gets connected to the 10 pin white connector on the Cruise M and tied to serial out on the R2LC connector or spliced into the serial line to the tender connector. 

Takes only a little longer to do it than to type this post.

 

Pete

 

Hmm yeah Dan, looks to be the same area of the board as mine. Did you find what the root cause was?

Seems that these boards may be pass their freshness date?

 

 

Well I learned a "cheap" lesson. No more K line engines or be prepared to upgrade the boards.

 

I sent a note to Ken at ERR. I will see which board will set me back the 85 dollars. Argh.

Gunrunnerjohn, I think the problem was below the connector and the flames came up and melted it.  There was nothing plugged into the connector.

 

Looks like I have 4 engines that could use the Cruise M in.  K-Line scale Hudson, K-4, and shay. Also, a Weaver 2-8-0 without cruise.

 

J Daddy / John I have no idea what the root cause was.  I was running it fine and it stopped and started smoking/stinking.

Dan

While on the subject of K-Line cruse, I have the K-Line Big Boy and Allegheny, both factory TMCC.  I know there is a cruse kit for them, but I haven't gotten them yet.  Do I need to have the motor from this kit to use the ERR cruse, or will it work without it?

 

I also have a K-Line GG1 with factory TMCC without cruse, nor was there a cruse kit for it.  Can I add cruse to it with the ERR kit?

Originally Posted by Boxcar Bill:

Sinclair

 

Use the Cruise"M" in both to replace the motor driver. You don't have to change the motors. Check out the instructions on ERR web. Simple installation.

 

Bill

I had glanced at them, and it talked of the Allegheny with cruse.  Mine doesn't have it so I was confused.  But I reread it and it looks like you are removing the function of the K-Line special cruse motor by cutting a wire out, is that correct?

Originally Posted by sinclair:
Originally Posted by Boxcar Bill:

Sinclair

 

Use the Cruise"M" in both to replace the motor driver. You don't have to change the motors. Check out the instructions on ERR web. Simple installation.

 

Bill

I had glanced at them, and it talked of the Allegheny with cruse.  Mine doesn't have it so I was confused.  But I reread it and it looks like you are removing the function of the K-Line special cruse motor by cutting a wire out, is that correct?

Correct

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