HELP! Smoke was released!

If more than just the triacs were damaged, you could replace it with a ERR Cruise Controller M.

http://www.3rdrail.com/err-3rdrail/index.html

Classic failure of the K-Line cruise module, as stated, the ERR Cruise Commander M is probably how you're going to fix it.  Let me guess, the fire was the same as this one, right?

Gunrunner John, isn't that 2 pin connector going to the battery or super cap?  Does this model have that 24 ohm resistor in line to the battery/supercap?  Might it be a SMD resistor in this model that burned up when the charge voltage was being sent to it when it was powered up due to a shorted battery or bad super cap?

@CALNNC posted:

Gunrunner John, isn't that 2 pin connector going to the battery or super cap?  Does this model have that 24 ohm resistor in line to the battery/supercap?  Might it be a SMD resistor in this model that burned up when the charge voltage was being sent to it when it was powered up due to a shorted battery or bad super cap?

No, you are confusing an MTH PS1. This is a K-line with cruise. Totally different board and function.

Thanks Barry.  This is why I prefer the E unit and going woo woo, and ding ding. A lot less technology to break, but don't do that in public.

Thanks rplst8 and gunrunnerjohn !

So I assume that these boards are prone to failure, No other electronics were compromised, and replacing the "cruise" board would resolve this completely Is the ERR Cruise Controller M a drop in replacement?

Comparing the photos online to mine, the wire connectors don't match. Also mine had a black wire soldered out the back of the board.

Talking about the Ni-MH 9v 260mAh battery; Probably should have been disconnected before storage ?? Replacement ? Life span ?

Thanks again everyone!

The black wire on the back is just a ground, it's not needed for the ERR CC-M.

I'm a little surprised that if you truly have a K-Line cruise board that it doesn't match that picture, all the versions from #1 to #4 had the same connector layout.  I looked in my parts drawer and Version 1, 3, and 4, all have the identical connector layout.

Maybe a picture of what you have?

This is what I have; (sync removed)

Left to Right: 7 pin > 2 pin > 3 pin > 4 pin (below that) > and 2 pin by 4 block pwr. conn.

Looks like all the connectors are in the same place to me.  That's 100% certain to be a K-Line cruise board.   And, it cooked in exactly the same place as about a dozen I've seen that came before it!

gunrunnerjohn,

This is from 3rdrail.com / ERR. Cruise Commander M. I don't see it! Maybe I'm missing something!

I thought you were talking about the two K-Line cruise modules.  Now that we're on the same page...

To install the ERR CC-M, you'll need the 4-pin PWM signals from the motherboard, and the 4-pin black Molex that has track power and motor.  Then you use the 10-pin connector supplied with the CC-M to connect pin-1 of that connector to the serial data. You do not use the 6-pin connector on the CC-M, that's for factory programming.

The K-Line cruise doesn't use the PWM signals, so you'll have to use the CC-M kit 4-pin to 4-pin JST-EH cable to go from the motherboard PWM connector to the CC-M.

The K-Line cruise has serial data coming to it, I don't recall the exact pin that it comes in on, but you can tap into that wire for the serial data.

Yikes!

So no drop in board!

So, Option 1 would be to by a CC-M and try to retro fit it to the K-Line / Lionel engine ? This, w/o knowing the pin out of the MDK board. ERR does have their pinout for the CC-M on their web site.

Option 2, (if possible) Rebuild the MDK, but w/o knowing the cause, it would be hit or miss

Option 3, [Nuke it] Sell it or part it out!

I'm glad I did not buy this ........... !!! Don't know why anyone would buy these either!

@ZAK posted:

Yikes!

So no drop in board!

So, Option 1 would be to by a CC-M and try to retro fit it to the K-Line / Lionel engine ? This, w/o knowing the pin out of the MDK board. ERR does have their pinout for the CC-M on their web site.

Option 2, (if possible) Rebuild the MDK, but w/o knowing the cause, it would be hit or miss

Option 3, [Nuke it] Sell it or part it out!

I'm glad I did not buy this ........... !!! Don't know why anyone would buy these either!

There is a 4th option-

You can use a plain jane DCDR board. This is the non cruise PWM based DC motor driver board, the cousin to the ACDR board.

This is the same size and shape and mounting.  It only uses the 4 pin control cable- no serial data required. It does need a 4 pin (compared to the 6 pin) power connector. These are cheaper than going ERR Cruise by quite a bit. Heck we used to get these every time someone upgraded to cruise- out came a working DCDR.

I have a bunch of the DCDR boards in my parts drawers, as stated, they're cheap.  As for finding the serial data, that's what an ohmmeter is for.

Vernon Barry,

What is a DCDR board and who supplies them?

What am I giving up with a DCDR board?

Thank You

Sorry, another 'family' member was responsible for the previous sarcasm

gunrunnerjohn,

How would checking impedance help with identifying wires and pin placement ?? I think I'll just use a continuity tester for that.

Would you be willing to part with any DCDR's ?