Hi everyone. I have a Milwaukee Road GP9 TMCC equipped circa 1997 that is real tired. I would like to make it a non-powered unit to hook up with a powered unit. I removed the shell and see that it only has one motor. The driving truck is screwed directly to the motor. Without taking everything apart, is there an easy way to make the powered truck free wheeling? I would like to have the lights, remote uncouplers and sounds to stay intact if possible. I will wait for your replies.
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You're going to have to remove the truck screws (from the bottom) that hold the motor assembly in place, there is no easier way I don't think.
Can you post a photo of the bottom of the engine/truck with motor?
Bob,I already did that. There was one screw holding the truck to the motor. What I need to do is remove/separate the gear from the motor to the gear in the truck.
The motor should lift right out. If it won't move, maybe there's a second screw you didn't see? I think some of those older units had two screws holding the motor. Otherwise try twisting the motor and truck assembly to loosen up the fit - either you've got another screw or it's just jammed.
This engine should have the 2028 type motor...Remove the motor mount screw from
the power truck, now remove the armature and related parts from the motor, now you
have a motor housing with out the innards, you can put the brush plate and its two screws back on so they don't get lost. Now with the power truck, remove the screw that holds on the top plate, remove the top plate and you will see a gear assembly with a side gear and center gear, remove, it just lifts out. Re install the top plate and re mount the motor to the plate. You now have a dummy engine that is free wheeling.
All this should only take about 8 minutes to do...
Marty
Thanks everyone! This dummy has a dummy.
Great response guys!! Very helpful. And Paul....you may have a dummy but your are not a dummy..
Alan
that's what the forums for,
helping one another.
Thanks again everyone. Alan, a little self-deprecation never hurt anyone especially when it is done in jest.
How did this little project turn out???
Marty
Martin, I separated the truck from the motor. I then took the cover over the top of the truck. The gears that the motor turned came out as a set. I put the top back on the truck, the truck and motor together and I have a dummy GP9. I never needed to remove the armature. Thank you for your help!
NICE!
Great topic and very timely for me. Thanks for asking the question Paul. The responses are very helpful.
Paul
Now I just have to find the parts to make a powered unit out of my Williams dummy, I want to go the other way.
Gunrunnerjohn, is there anything from my '97 Lionel TMCC GP9 that I turned into a non-powered unit that you could use? I'll give you everything except what I need to keep it as a dummy.
chck out these power kits to turn Williams dummys
into power units
Gunrunnerjohn, is there anything from my '97 Lionel TMCC GP9 that I turned into a non-powered unit that you could use? I'll give you everything except what I need to keep it as a dummy.
Thanks, but I don't think there's anything there that would be useful. I suspect the kits that Popi posted are the way I'd have to go. For that kind of money, I'll probably abandon the idea, that's way too much for the task!
chck out these power kits to turn Williams dummys
into power units
Thanks, but I don't think there's anything there that would be useful. I suspect the kits that Popi posted are the way I'd have to go. For that kind of money, I'll probably abandon the idea, that's way too much for the task!
As GRJ noted the cost of the upgrade kits are relatively expensive ($210 MSRP). As we are all well aware, the sale prices on new Williams units are far less than the motor upgrade kits. When I have wanted to power a dummy, I have bought another powered unit. When I cannot find the livery I want, I buy the type locomotive I want in another livery and transfer the dummy shell. When I cannot find the type locomotive that I want, I look for a find a different type that has the same motor and trucks. This permits purchasing the cheapest unit available on blowout that will work. I then sell any extra peices, i.e. frame, shell, reversing unit, trublast board, dummy trucks, etc. I usually have a net cost between $50 and $75. Pat B.
I'd like to find a sharknose A unit chassis, that's the set I want to power. I could also power the B unit, probably pretty easier to find something that would fit for that one.