Help with DCS PS2 problem

Sounds like a battery related problem:

1. - is the battery the original, white battery?  If so, throw it away.

2.  The purpose of the battery  is to save settings to the engine's memory after power is turned off.  One curtail setting being the engine's ID#.  If the id # is lost, you have to  delete the engine from the remote and add it again.

3.  Low volume can be increased while the engine is 'active', that is powered on.  Try and increase the volume with the #2 button on the remote.  If that does not work, you most probably have either a speaker (least likely) or a bad audio amplifier.

4.  For test purposes, you can install an alkaline battery but do not leave it installed.  Either purchase a new Green battery or a BCR and install.

bruce

Like Bruce stated, a white battery must be thrown away and replaced with a new green battery.  Your battery is DC and not AC.  Like stated, a new green battery will help.  Don't mess with that white battery.

When you power up in conventional and chop the power, how long do the sounds stay on?

Yes i  did type 6.4 VAC should have been VDC.  Where do i get the green battery?

All MTH dealers carry them and it is a common item.  You will be in good shape hopefully.   

WestMDRR,

   I always recommend a BCR when replacing batteries in either a P2 or P1 engine, they last forever.  The new P3 engines have them built right into the engines.

PCRR/Dave

FWIW, the stand MTH takes on the BCR is NEUTRAL.  Not for and not against.  They do work but do not last forever.  I come by many of them from PS-1 engines that I upgrade.  I have several that will go on this forum as soon as I am home this week.

I've already replaced two bad genuine BCR units that went bad.  One had a bad solder joint internally when I took it apart, the other had a bad cap that no longer held a charge.  They do not last forever.

I went with John's supercap suggestion. Working great for me.

Pine Creek Railroad posted:

WestMDRR,

   I always recommend a BCR when replacing batteries in either a P2 or P1 engine, they last forever.  The new P3 engines have them built right into the engines.

PCRR/Dave

What is a BCR?

http://www.jandwelectronics.com/

WestMDRR,

    It is really a Super Capacitor named BCR, I have never worn one out, mine have been in for over 10 years now, once in a while you can get a faulty one like Gun Runner John purchased.  Take the Battery out and replace it with the BCR, they last almost for ever.  The draw back is you must let your engine in neutral setting on your powered tracks, for about 5 sec each time you start your engine, especially if the engine has been off the tracks for a while, to charge the BCR for usage. Further on initial installation, let the engine set for about 10 minutes with the track powered up, and all works perfectly from that point on.  I use them in all my P2 engines and IMO they are a mandatory item for all P1 engine.  I know Marty is not overly fond of them, it's about the only thing we disagree on, when it come to our Hobby.

PCRR/Dave

I searched high and low to replace my white battery but no MTH green ones to be found in my area.

Took a while but I found this and seems to be working very well and was precharged in the package.

That one should work fine.  Any quality NiMh 7-cell battery should function just fine.

I threw 4 BCRs on the buy sell tonight for $25.00 shipped and they went in short time.  Some guys like Fords and some Chevrolet.  Whatever works for you.

First real mention I've heard of life ending on supercaps.

https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Rec...chargeable+batteries

12.99 w prime

RJR posted:

First real mention I've heard of life ending on supercaps.

There's a first time for everything.   Do a little reading on them and you'll find they are like any other electrolytic capacitor, they can dry out in time and fail.  They also are VERY intolerant of over voltage, that can kill them on the spot.

Personally, I prefer the batteries.  However, when I got tpo many engines, so that some didn't run for months, it became harder to have them charged, so when they started dying after 10 years of use, I went to supercaps on my PS2 rather than buy new batteries.  Supercaps do have operational issues that aren't present when you have a battery.

I've just started using 8.4 volt Lithium Ion batteries in 5 volt PS2 engines. The charging rate, I've been told, is compatible with the charging circuit in PS2 engines.

Barry Broskowitz posted:

I've just started using 8.4 volt Lithium Ion batteries in 5 volt PS2 engines. The changing rate, I've been told, is compatible with the charging circuit in PS2 engines.

I would be nervous using the Li Ion batteries for safety reasons.I'm assuming they have an internal PCB (protection circuit board).

What are the operational issues with supercaps not found with batteries?

On several occasions that rarely happen, cutting power shortly after powering up, so that the supercap can't charge up, apparenly causes the ID# in the loco to get scrambled.  Simply delete loco from one of your remotes and then re-add it.  This will reset the ID# in the loco, and other remotes will never know this happened.

A scenario:  A car on a train is derailed, but not shorting.  I may have turned off power to that block to keep layout running, and then closed down the layout, forgetting to re-rail the car.  Or, while layout is off, tiny fingers cause a derailment.  I leave layout a few days; supercaps drain.  I power up the layout and the block, hit startup, and start train moving, all within a few seconds.  Derailed car shorts.  Breaker opens.  When derailment fixed and breaker reset, loco can't be accessed.  Apply the cure above...  It works.

I also had this happen once with a PS2 loco with a battery that had been idle for weeks, with a 12-year old recently deceased battery.

All in all, given that having 27 DCS locos, some don't get frequent use, I'm glad I switched all PS2s to supercaps.

Barry Broskowitz posted:

I've just started using 8.4 volt Lithium Ion batteries in 5 volt PS2 engines. The charging rate, I've been told, is compatible with the charging circuit in PS2 engines.

We await further news!

I seem to recall some posts on the forum that for some electrical reason they should NEVER be used.

The nominal charge of a Li-Ion 9V rechargeable is 7.4 volts, I'd think that would marginal in the PS/2 application.  Most of the 9V LiIon batteries I find have something similar to this ad as far as charging.

I don't think I'll be putting these in any of my locomotives.

Why would one want to?

I can't say why you'd risk it.  There's no operational advantage that I can see.  If you want low self-discharge, go with something like the Tenergy low-self discharge 9V NiMh, that will last several years and still have most of it's charge.  Other than that, the additional capacity of the LiIon doesn't seem to be needed.