HELP WITH ERR AC Commander

Your a bit dangerous there with those capacitor leads. I would. I would get a couple of lugs and go from brush to brush plate screw. Plus, strip some insulation back from a piece of wire as use in for insulation of the cap leads.

Edited this post. Blew one of your pictures up - So, I can see. The two wires next the antenna are in the right place. The last one on that same connector is in the feature spot... You have wire on the feature connector pin ? Last connection on the green connector on the other side from the antenna, Where is that wire going....It is usually for smoke/strobe? 

After, another  look that is why you light bulb is blinking. You have thewire on the feature connector and no the proper output for the light ...

http://www.electricrr.com/Manuals/Ac-V5-Inst.pdf

I converted postwar horizontal motor F3 to TMCC, but I can't remember if its LCRU or the AC Commander any more. LCRX for sure in the dummy unit.

I agree with the comment by Shawn about connecting one of the leads of the non-polarized caps to the brush plate screw. The capacitor might get worked back and forth and break if you connect ground to the frame. If you are really concerned about grounding, you could run another lead from the brush to the frame.

The blinking light could be the electronics trying to signal it has a weak TMCC signal, or it could be the light bulb is loose.

Going by memory, the light socket on my F3 was loose so I soldered a wire onto the outside of the socket and ran it back to a common location.

I am assuming you are using an incandescent light bulb, LEDs can pose a problem.

Shawn is correct, the bulb is certainly connected to the wrong lead if you intend it to be a headlight.  The front headlight should be connected to the middle terminal of the 7-connector terminal strip.  The "feature" is the smoke/strobe/cab light connection.  I suspect the blinking light has nothing to do with the issues with motor control.

I'm not familiar with F3's so please forgive me.

Maybe its the way the picture is, but it looks like the black "Feature" wire is connected to the Red wire that's connected to the "AC Hot" input. It also appears that the Black w/ white tracer is the "ground" and is connected to the chassis frame. The Blue, Yellow and Green are the field and brush wires.

Greg, As the others have said, use the solder lugs for the capacitor grounds and connect them directly to the brush block screws on the motor. No need for the ground wires to the caps. Also, try and keep the cap leads short to prevent shorting. Your "AC Common" should also should also  be connected here, if there isn't another wire already. Leave plenty of wire for flexing, otherwise the wire will eventually break.

Which wire is the center rail wire? Is there a ground wire coming off the motor/truck? As I said, I'm not familiar with F3's so please forgive me. 

Also, from one Vet to another, Thank you for your service!

With the engine on track, Command base on, Turn on power supply,  What does the engine do???  What position do you have the program switch in???   Do any lights come on???  If you hit the set button, does the headlight flash???   Have you tried to program the engine to the number you want to use, only two digits???   Put one end of the caps under the brush plate screw.   The middle wire on the program switch should be wired correctly to the board.  Wiring instructions must be followed...

Marty

Hey Guys, thanks for the helpful responses.  Shawn, in reference to the last wire on the 7 port connector, I had the wire from the light bulb connected there.  In the instructions is detailed that the light or strobe light could go there but I see what Gunrunnerjohn illustrated.  I didn't put the light bulb wire there because it illustrated the lamp needed to utilize port 3 or 6 as a ground, and with only 1 wire leading from the bulb, I didn't use it and opted for port 7 which it said could be used for a strobe or lamp. I'll move the lamp wire to port 4., and I am using an incandescent light bulb. As per the capacitors, I thought they had to be grounded.  Marty, nothing worked in accordance when I attempted programming, I guess I have some rewiring to do.  Thanks.. I will go over everything again.