Help with PS2 5 volt System

Bob,  The best way to test is to place it on a conventional test track and see if the engine starts up.  If not, it may have died during the last shut down.

If the board is totally dead, you can try replacing the Vo;tage Regulator in the long 3 wire harness, but this is a long shot.  If still doesn't work, the board usually can not be repaired and the only way to repair the train is via an upgrade to a PS-2 3V system.

If it does run conventionally, then there are options to get it to work on DCS system.   G

Barry and G,

I finally had an opportunity to put the engine on the track this evening.  The engine was not in my handheld.  So I went through the steps to add engine.  The message I got when I did that was No Engine to Add.  This doesn't sound good.  My next step is to see if it will run conventionally.  Will have to rearrange some wiring to test it in the conventional mode.  Will do that this weekend.

Thanks for all your help to date.  Will let you know what happens.

Bob

G,

The engine will not start in the conventional mode either.  Oh nubbins.  So I can assume this is the end for the board.  I read on another thread that you (G) can test the boards and possibly perform repairs to them.  Is that true?  I also read in a thread that a PS2 3v board can be substituted in an engine that has a 5v board without having to replace the harness. Is that true?

I await your reply sir.

Bob

Bob,  Yes and Yes.  In general if a 5V won't click and at least activate the lights, then normally it is not repairable.  If you know you have good continuity from the engine to the 7 pin power connector, and the board doesn't start up, most likely it is dead.

There is a PS-2 3V board with 5V connectors that can be installed.  You need the hardware kit which has the heat sink mount, 4 ohm speaker, 2.4V battery and charge harness.

Mounting is slightly different but usually no issues placing it in the near vicinity of the original board.  G

G,

I have a spare 3 volt board with mount.  If I understand you correctly, I need a new harness?  I thought I read in a thread on the Forum somewhere that you could use the 5 volt plug and connect into the 3 volt board.

Can or do you repair 5 volt boards?  Do you have boards for sale?  Depending on your reply, I might decide to install a ERR Cruise Commander although I rather stick with PS2.

Thanks for your help.

Bob

You can pull the header plastic enclosures off the 5V board connectors and place them onto the 3V board, then the connectors will match up.  The pins are the same, it's just the connector housings that are different,

You'll need to replace the battery harness and use a 4 ohm speaker.

Bob,  The harness you need to change is the battery harness only.  The PS-2 3V boards use a 4 ohm speaker and a 2.4V battery with rectangular charge port.  The 5V board uses a 16 ohm speaker and the 8.4V battery with round charge port.

You can carefully pull the black connectors off your PS-2 5V board and install them in place of the white ones on your 3V board.  You now have a PS-2 3V board with 5V connectors.  Then you need to change the battery, battery harness, and speaker.

Just be careful removing the connectors because the pins are easy to bend/break.

I do have a PS-2 3V with 5V connectors already installed.  MTH Part number is AE-15/16 for this board set.  I also have the hardware kit with battery, speaker, battery harness, heat sink and screws.  (IC-23 for Steam and IC-24 for Diesel).

I can repair 5V boards but only light FETs, the light control buffer, and the audio amp.  Anything more serious is not repairable because you can't separate the boards without industrial type equipment.  Plus most parts have become obsolete for the 5V board, including the audio amp now.  G

I guess I should save my dead 5V boards for salvage audio amps.

G,

Thanks for your help.  I'll make a decision on what to do soon.  At that time I will contact you for the items you mentioned for pricing information.

Bob

I use a hot air rework tool with a heat spreader.  Since I'm not that concerned about the board after it's already dead, no problem.  As far as getting the old one out of the working board, you just chop the leads off first and remove them one at a time.