Help With Tomar Ground Throws

Hi Rich, I realize this is an old post but I’ve been thinking about posting my solution to the forum and I came across your question. I love these switch stands and have several on my O gauge layout. None of them rotated freely out of the package but the fix is straightforward:

1) Loosen the set screw and remove the lens assembly.

2) Remove the lamp and attached wires.

3) Carefully remove the spring clip.

4) Remove the cam/post from the base.

5) Using super fine sandpaper (e.g. 1000 grit) polish the post including where it meets the cam at the bottom. Using a small piece of the same sandpaper rolled small enough to fit in the base polish the inside of the base hole, the bottom of the base where it can contact the cam, and the top of the base where it is contacted by the spring clip.  There will usually be some paint here that the clip can catch on.  Finally clean up the spring clip with the same sandpaper to remove any edge flashing left over from the stamping process.  

6) Apply some graphite (I used greasem from kadee but a pencil should work as well) to the cam post and reassemble the  switch stand being very careful not to lose the spring clip.  Ensure the spring clip is located correctly in its slot on the post.

7) The switch stand should now rotate effortlessly.  When installed the throw wire has a dogleg where it connects to the cam.  This dogleg is crucial in that it provides the moment arm necessary to rotate the cam the full 90 degrees. If you find the stand still hangs up at either end of the throw, increase the angle of the dogleg slightly ensuring the throw wire is not rubbing against the adjacent tie.  If it is, consider undercutting the tie to make more room for the throw wire.

8) I had great success using the supplied throw wires but I re-bent them to work better with my Atlas switches. I also made some of my own.  After doing all this my switches and switch stands operate perfectly.  I’ve included a couple of examples both opposite and on the same side of the switch machine for those with Atlas switches. I also have these on my switches running with z-stuff machines.

Lots of work left to do on this layout but after a couple of years sitting on the shelf these are in and well worth the effort.

Does this ground throw work with both a switch motor and no switch motor (fully manual)? Also - does the light get power from the track (TMCC / DCS @18v) or from a separate lower power source?

I like the dwarf signal indicator. All manual Ground throws will be used on the new layout and I'm investigating options - thank you for bringing up this post.

Paul

The switch stand (directional lantern) is rotated by the movement of the switch throw bar so either manual throw or motorized switches will work. The bulbs are very small (approx 1.8 mm) 16v incandescent “doll house” lamps.  Tomar recommends no more than 12v for lamp life so I run them off a separate accessory transformer.

Paul, you might want to give these a look.  www.all-aboard-trains.com.  They are available direct or on eBay. Made in Alabama.  I have either used Tortoise motors or Caboose Industries throws. I was redoing my lift out bridge and decided to add a siding for a little more operation. These looked similar to what the Rutland that I model used. They are pricey but I decided to take the plunge. Install was far from a drop in. My track was already laid and wired up as the original plan was to just use a Caboose throw. But the lighted lantern sold me. First off. It must be installed on the straight thru side of the turnout. Not really where I wanted it. The handle lifts up and rotates an eccentric. There is a notch it rests in to keep it in place. Pretty much like the prototype. First issue was the eccentric crank hit the tie. I decided to notch out the tie for clearance with a Dremel. Yes it would have been best to do it from the underside. But I wasn’t about to rip up the trackage. The stand is really nicely built and is probably right to scale. The mounting portion is a very small base. With really small mounting holes. I had nothing that small that would fit through the provided holes. I had already soldered on some brass strips to the base with holes to accept a #2 screw. This won’t be used that often. I prefer function and strength over looks.

L.

Once everything was painted and touched up it looked better. Added ballast around it and some tall tufts and it hides most of my modification. At least at a quick glance. It works very well and the points  fit up snug against the rails. A little bit of fiddling to get the rod to the throwbar the correct length. I substituted piano wire.

I e mailed the owner and we later had a nice conversation over the phone.  I commended him on a nice product. But told him this would be something that would look more at home on a Proto 48 layout. Most 3 railers aren’t going to rip up trackage to install these or want to modify the ties. He mentioned they were designed to be mounted with track spikes. Something most 3 railers don’t have in stock. Still if you don’t mind these type of projects and haven’t laid your track yet. These are really nice. My suggestion to him. Make the mounting portion a little more robust. Mount the stand to an already made base with the equivalent to some Ross or Atlas ties. In the case of Ross. You would just cut their ties back a bit and simply butt the mounted stand up against them. Distress the ties a bit and they would blend together. I told him. The lights are a selling point for 3 railers. The complicated installation. Not so much.

Thank you Peter.

Dave, I have not seen a high lighted switch stand before in O. Quite cool. I can see this for the lead switch into a yard. I'll have to look into this a bit more. Thank you for sharing your detailed experience with this product.

Paul

@Dave_C posted:

Paul, you might want to give these a look.  www.all-aboard-trains.com.  They are available direct or on eBay. Made in Alabama.  I have either used Tortoise motors or Caboose Industries throws. I was redoing my lift out bridge and decided to add a siding for a little more operation. These looked similar to what the Rutland that I model used. They are pricey but I decided to take the plunge. Install was far from a drop in. My track was already laid and wired up as the original plan was to just use a Caboose throw. But the lighted lantern sold me. First off. It must be installed on the straight thru side of the turnout. Not really where I wanted it. The handle lifts up and rotates an eccentric. There is a notch it rests in to keep it in place. Pretty much like the prototype. First issue was the eccentric crank hit the tie. I decided to notch out the tie for clearance with a Dremel. Yes it would have been best to do it from the underside. But I wasn’t about to rip up the trackage. The stand is really nicely built and is probably right to scale. The mounting portion is a very small base. With really small mounting holes. I had nothing that small that would fit through the provided holes. I had already soldered on some brass strips to the base with holes to accept a #2 screw. This won’t be used that often. I prefer function and strength over look

Once everything was painted and touched up it looked better. Added ballast around it and some tall tufts and it hides most of my modification. At least at a quick glance. It works very well and the points  fit up snug against the rails. A little bit of fiddling to get the rod to the throwbar the correct length. I substituted piano wire.

I e mailed the owner and we later had a nice conversation over the phone.  I commended him on a nice product. But told him this would be something that would look more at home on a Proto 48 layout. Most 3 railers aren’t going to rip up trackage to install these or want to modify the ties. He mentioned they were designed to be mounted with track spikes. Something most 3 railers don’t have in stock. Still if you don’t mind these type of projects and haven’t laid your track yet. These are really nice. My suggestion to him. Make the mounting portion a little more robust. Mount the stand to an already made base with the equivalent to some Ross or Atlas ties. In the case of Ross. You would just cut their ties back a bit and simply butt the mounted stand up against them. Distress the ties a bit and they would blend together. I told him. The lights are a selling point for 3 railers. The complicated installation. Not so much.

Would these be viable to use with tortoise machines if they were modified to not lock into place? Looks like typically they'd be used to perform the throw, but I'd prefer to have motorized switches with these providing the correct cosmetics.

Andrew, I’d contact them. They were good at responding to my e mail and we talked at length later on the phone. I’m guessing they can be built without the manual throw in place. So just the eccentric would rotate for the light. The one thing about them. They must be placed on the straight portion of the turnout for everything to work.