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I now have 7 electrics  I could run with catenary system. I'm going to set up a separate track for this, simple design, 40' oval no switches, no tunnels, no bridges, I am going to keep it simple since this is my 1st attempt. 

I have read many articles and several forum posts about this system. I still would like to here from those who have been down this path before any advice.

How much power needed for overhead messenger wire, 14 -18 volt, what makes the best set up, (post,arm,wire) that is economical?  How far apart do the posts go, if the messenger is on & you touch it do you get a shock?  Do Lionel & MTH engines run at same voltage using the catenary system  , do the contact arms need to be cleaned often and so on.

Any help from experts will be appreciated,  thanks.

Last edited by Jushavnfun
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If you see sparking, it is not built properly.  You may look for some past posts I have done on catenary.  I run several hundred feet of live wire on two different levels.  I run all catenary on DCS.  It can run conventional but I have never seen a reason to do so with DCS.    My catenary was made to look like something Lionel could have made in the 50s.   Building a catenary system is no small job if you want it right.  I have seen some beautiful scale systems with all the add on wires for pull offs.  Most of them are for show only.  If you build a system, make it work.  My system has been in place for over 12 years and functions one hundred percent.  Take your time and do it right.

I never built an Cantenary system but I did read a post on these pages on the subject that I thought was interesting, in fact it could of been by Marty above. What the builder did was add weights to his system to keep the lines tight when room temperature changes causes expansion and contraction.

Like I said I have no hands on with it but I thought is was a cool idea.

As Marty points out, "building a catenary system is no small job" but he did a fantastic job with his.   I went the easier way by using the MTH catenary system.  Mine is not as extensive as Marty's and I didn't have to build anything.  Out of the box the poles and catenary are bright silver so i sprayed the poles with a textured brown paint to look old and the catenary with a green to look like the patinated copper.  The MTH system is pretty easy but takes some planning particularly the curves.  The catenary wire bends and holds its shape but, depending on your radius, you will have to compensate for the locomotive overhang which will move the pantograph off center relative to the center rail.  You can adjust the MTH posts up and down and move the catenary hanger in and out but there is no lateral forgiveness, so be sure to plant your posts one at a time and check each with a locomotive to be sure.  To power it all you need to do is connect your center rail wire to the terminal on the catenary post base.  Paint after you have the geometry figured out.  Mine is powered but, at the moment, I have only one GG1 that can use it.

IMG_3393

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  • IMG_3393

I have always loved this subject on live catenary. I have made two different styles, one for my O gauge Bowser trolley and one for my kitbashed standard gauge MU cars. For the O gauge I made my own poles and messenger arms out of two different sizes of all thread and the wire I used was Marklin . That Christmas set was a 042 over under figure 8. It ran flawlessly !! If I can find a photo of it I will share it.  For the standard gauge set I made my poles and messenger arms out of shelf supports and shelf brackets. All cut to size with a hack saw and/or dremel.  for the wire I used an inverted standard gauge rail. ( I had some junk track lying around that I used.) It too works great.   And no to your question about getting shocked. Although I some times tell people to stay clear of the live wires. LOL

Now for the O gauge, I just selected a starting point on the figure 8 and mounted my poles where the Marklin wire ended. I kept the wire exactly over the center rail and never had an issue. I will add it was pretty easy for me because I was using a Bowser trolley with a Lionel GG1 pantagraph mounted in the center of the roof. There were no issues of engine over hang.  As long as your pickup is over the power trucks you shouldn't run into  too much of a problem.  Thats what I did for the standard gauge power unit.There are more videos on the standard gauge catenary on my u tube channel , standard gauge toy train catenary.  I too wanted it to be simple and toy like in appearance and construction. Hope this helps in some way.

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standard gauge toy train catenary

FOR WIRE, MTH's system uses what I would call a modified Marklin(HO) fixed catenary truss that is attached at the ends to an outrigger on each pole. You can obtain Marklin wire trusses on Ebay. FOR POLES I use old PITTMAN poles (also on Ebay)  with an attached outrigger for the Marklin wire trusses.

I made the outriggers  and a base for the poles that clip to the track on my 3D printer.

Jushavnfun posted:

I now have 7 electrics  I could run with catenary system. I'm going to set up a separate track for this, simple design, 40' oval no switches, no tunnels, no bridges, I am going to keep it simple since this is my 1st attempt. 

I have read many articles and several forum posts about this system. I still would like to here from those who have been down this path before any advice.

How much power needed for overhead messenger wire, 14 -18 volt, what makes the best set up, (post,arm,wire) that is economical?  How far apart do the posts go, if the messenger is on & you touch it do you get a shock?  Do Lionel & MTH engines run at same voltage using the catenary system  , do the contact arms need to be cleaned often and so on.

Any help from experts will be appreciated,  thanks.

I have about 15 pages on the subject that I have cut & pasted over the years from this and the other forums.  No sense in reinventing the wheel.  Be happy to email you the file if you wish.  My email address is in my profile.  Ball now in your court. 

I installed the MTH Catenary on my small layout a little over a year ago.  It works great and is very easy to set up.  That being said, it can be very hard to find.  I have the catenary connected to the same ZW that the inside third rail is connected to (but on a different handle) so I can run two trains on the same track at the same time.  

The 2340 pulling the passenger train is powered by the catenary.  The 2332 is powered by the inside third rail:

https://youtu.be/UYxO_yWlky0

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