Holes for Running Wiring in Layout

I use auger bits like these to make way for wiring in the cross members (Mine are 2x4). For drilling pine, the inexpensive Harbor Freight deal is more than adequate. I put holes where I need them and usually use the biggest hole that won't seem to compromise the structural integrity of the cross member. I don't find a need for grommets.

A few years back, someone on this forum recommended using 1-1/2 inch plastic pipe clamps attached with one screw (out of two) to the bottom of the cross members.  You can then just slip your wiring inside clamps and don't have to worry about "pulling" wire. Easy to add where you want them as you start wiring.

This works well for me.

Ken

Gentlemen,

   Banjoflyer has this down to an art, the PVC hangers work exceptionally well and are reusable for different layouts, I even reused mine to mount my 6V batteries for my upgraded HHRC recharging.

I doubt I will ever drill holes in any platform understructure ever again, in fact I went to PVC Saw Horses eliminating most of the wood understructure completely.

PCRR/Dave

I used a 1/2" or 3/4" spade to punch holes in my cross members.  I drilled one hole in each side of a framed square, except for the ones to the exterior of the layout.  The Bigger hole were more towards the center of the layout where there would be wires.  I run the wire where it needs to go, attaching it at the end, then I pull taught and cut to length then attach.  The wires are then up above the bottom edge of my framing so I don't have to worry about wires or clamps getting caught on as I use under the table for storage (I don't have a garage to keep boxes and tools in so that's where they go.).

Thanks for the suggestions, guys.

The clamps are a great idea, but I think the holes-in-the-cross-members gives a "cleaner" look and, like Sinclair said, eliminates any possibility of something getting caught on the clamps or wires from underneath.

I like those auger bits, too.

1" auger holes.

I vote for holes in the framing members.  If you use a spade bit, do what Mark has suggested in the post just above mine.  Otherwise you could drill most of the way through, then finish the hole from the opposite side.  

A hole saw will give a clean cut but if they are not sharp and of a better grade, then you will be getting tired pretty quickly.  Especially drilling overhead.  

Auger bits are the fastest because they draw the bit into the wood and allows you to let up on the pressure, thus saving your arms a bit.  But again tear out on the back is an issue, so again, Marks suggestion.  

Mike CT posted:

1" auger holes.

Mike's wiring work is absolutely delightful. 

George

banjoflyer posted:

If you do choose to drill holes in the framing here's a little trick that will insure a clean exit hole. Clamp a sacrificial piece of wood ( 1X4, 2X4 etc.) to the "far" (back)  side of the piece of wood where you want the hole. When you drill the hole advance the bit a little beyond the thickness of the piece being drilled. The bit will drill slightly into the sacrificial board but the pressure between the two pieces will keep the backside of the hole from "blowing out".

You will end up with no ragged edges on both sides of the hole.

Mark

That's a great idea! 

George

Old Hungarian saying, "Far easier to drill holes in cross pieces before assembly than after everything is together and you're under the layout."  Not really an old Hungarian saying, I just made it up.  John in Lansing, ILL

rattler21 posted:

Old Hungarian saying, "Far easier to drill holes in cross pieces before assembly than after everything is together and you're under the layout."  Not really an old Hungarian saying, I just made it up.  John in Lansing, ILL

Hungarian or not, you're absolutely right. I have a table top drill press and, based on the suggestions, I will pre-drill a few 1" diameter holes in each cross-piece with an auger bit and use a sacrificial piece of wood to prevent excessive "tear out". I'll keep everyone posted on the layout progress once I get started.

Mike - that's an impressive wiring job and love the wire channels. 

MIKECT the gray wire retainers what are they and where did you get them. It is a great idea and your wiring is fabulous. 

RJT posted:

MIKECT the gray wire retainers what are they and where did you get them. It is a great idea and your wiring is fabulous. 

Grainger Supply   Click on the link, there are different sizes.   The covers are ordered separately. 

I suspect Mike could be a telecommunication guy as that sanitary look is worthy of the big switch rooms in the large hotels here in Las Vegas.

Excellent sir.

Richie C. posted:

rattler21 posted:

Old Hungarian saying, "Far easier to drill holes in cross pieces before assembly than after everything is together and you're under the layout."  Not really an old Hungarian saying, I just made it up.  John in Lansing, ILL

Hungarian or not, you're absolutely right. I have a table top drill press and, based on the suggestions, I will pre-drill a few 1" diameter holes in each cross-piece with an auger bit and use a sacrificial piece of wood to prevent excessive "tear out". I'll keep everyone posted on the layout progress once I get started.

Mike - that's an impressive wiring job and love the wire channels. 

That same Hungarian also pulled all of the wire and made the track feeders before attaching the deck. "Far easier to pull wires and splice in taps while standing up"

GVDobler posted:

I suspect Mike could be a telecommunication guy as that sanitary look is worthy of the big switch rooms in the large hotels here in Las Vegas.

Excellent sir.

Thank you   Electrical contractor retired, (69).  A lot of data and telephone, later years.   Note: there are number cards, (1-45 most common), available at most electrical supplies.  Number, (Identify), each wire/cable, a big plus.   Basic wire management with staples and cable ties, in addition to the pictures above.  

Thank you, all, for the comments.  Mike CT.

banjoflyer posted:

Before you drill a bunch of holes in the layout framing consider other options. Many operators choose to use plastic conduit clamps attached to the underside edge of the cross members.

That allows for easy addition of more or new wires without drilling any holes and having to feed the wire through each hole. By removing one screw and pivoting the clamp new wires can be "dropped in" the clamp and then it is re-secured:

 

The clamps come in many sizes.

Mark

I'm a big fan of this method!

I HATE NEAT WIRING.

I am one that is guilty of not drilling holes prior to putting the deck work on top of my layout. Makes for fun job to run new wires under my layout. 

How exactly does clamping a piece of wood opposite of where you are drilling keep it from having a really rough exit. Reading about using a clamp of wood to have a cleaner exit hole, how exactly does it do that. Do you just keep going until you it that block of wood, or do you drill into that block off wood a little bit.

All of my holes have really rough looking exits that look like they can give you pretty nasty splinters.

And then there's the Forstner bit design for a very clean-cut hole...

Using a sacrificial backer board is still a good idea, but the chips are bigger (less 'dusty'), the drilling speed can be reduced, and the hole is very clean, not as ripped and chewed as with a spade bit.  I use Forstner bits for a lot of my projects.  I should think a 3/4" bit would be quite adequate bored in several points along the centerline of your braces for typical layout wiring needs.

BTW, some of the commercial benchwork folks have pre-drilled holes in their bracing.  A search of these products can give you an idea of how they approached your question.

OTOH, all of the other non-bored ideas (clamps, PVC, etc.) are good alternatives to a neater, more organized under-table situation. 

Hey, you might even keep a mirror handy to proudly impress your visitors with your finesse and just how much of a neatnik you really are!  I wish I could say I'm proud enough of my under-table maze to do this, but.......

Stay limber.

KD

Don't drill holes! It just makes wiring more difficult and it's messy. I use these 1/4" nylon loop hangers screwed to the benchwork, then run a zip tie through them.

When you are done running wires, you can zip and clip the bundle tight. If you need to add, just put a second tie through the loop. Remove the first tie, then tighten the new one.

I used these from Home Depot. Very easy to add wires and snap shut again. I used  the slotted wire channel that Mike CT suggested for my switch panels. I pre install extra switches in the cover to make hooking up the next building easier.