Homasote

homasote will hold a screw much better, no static electricity and not dangerously flammable. I vote for the "sote"

Yes, the homosote will hold screws much better, and the foam emits highly toxic gases if burned. Homosote needs an underlayment of some kind, such as plywood or a closely spaced support structure, because it is not structural and will change shape (droop) if not supported.

Just to avoid confusion:  It's Homasote.  

This insulation material, which may not be readily available in some areas) has been used for many years by modelers in all scale for topping layouts--usually mounted on top of a plywood underlayment, which is highly recommended.

Many modelers today use the 2" thick Extruded Polystyrene (also mounted on a plywood underlayment) if they want to create scenic features that extend both above and below track level.  This material is lightweight and easy to cut/carve.  It does not provide all the sound reduction properties of Homasote, but in many/most cases that does not matter all that much.  In O gauge, though, some want that extra sound reduction.

I used Homasote for years on my layouts, but now prefer the Extruded Polystyrene.  Of course, once it is mounted and carved, it is usually topped with some other more solid scenic "topping" such as Hydrocal plaster, joint compound, or Sculpta-Mold (my personal favorite).

Homasote for sure for the reasons mentioned.

Chris

Another advantage is that Homasote can be quite cost effective if you have the tools to cut down 4 x 8 sheets.  Here's a link to a site that outlines making creating roadbed strips froma a full sheet of Homasote.  

http://www.housatonicrr.com/DIY_Roadbed.htm

At least three cons to be aware of concerning Homasote.  It's essentially a pressed paper fiber product that can absorb and release a lot of moisture as the seasons change.  Many users will seal it with paint before laying track or ballast.  Secondly, it's a real mess to cut or use a router bit on to shape ballast profiles.  I highly recommend you cut it outside unless you have an exceptional vacuum system attached to your table saw.  Even better would be to cut it at your neighbor's house!  And lastly, it is quite a bit heavier than the foam board.  It's very dense, and more "grippy" (for lack of a better term), which is why it holds spikes more successfully.

Here is the link to the Homasote website page for locating sellers.  Most powerbox lumber stores like Home Depot or Lowes will not stock it.  It's not commonly used for most building projects, which is why it can be difficult to locate.  Most likely you will need to find it at more traditional lumber yard like 84 Lumber or similar, or a smaller independent yard.

http://www.homasote.com/WhereToBuy/

I'm not knocking the use of Homasote above.  I would plan on using it if and when I ever build a home layout.  Just be aware that some extra work may be involved in prepping it.

Jim

Actually.

I just picked mine up at Home Depot... around $27 for an 8' X 4' sheet.  However, the Lowes in my area does not stock it.

Michael Rahilly

Eastampton, NJ

These days many O gaugers seem to be using 1/2" Quietbrace on the layout instead of Homasote. It is more readily available at building supply and big box stores and much less expensive. It has a light black asphalt coating one side and should be covered with latex paint if using it as the final surface.

[Quietbrace is a compressed vegetation sheathing/insulating material often used under siding and brick veerer. I used it recently on a Playhouse].

It seems to me that glueing it to the plywood sub-base will create a mass to improve sound-proofing, if that is a layout priority? In my own case I would also glue 1/2" extruded construction foam[blue,pink,etc] over the Quietbrace to better receive groundscaping material/structures,etc. Several users have reported that Quietbrace receives and holds track screws just as well as Homasote.

I have used a lot of Quietbrace on structures over time but have not used it on a train layout as I have Homasote[O and HO layouts]. Too late to try on my current small 2010 attic layout which is cork on foam on plywood--anyway I am not a noise abatement freak. 

Something to consider.

It is discussed in great detail in the Kalmbach book: How To Build Realistic Model Track

Homabed roadbed over foam is another option.

Website => http://www.homabed.com/

Matt

Screws are not necessary if you're going to ballast your track. The glue that holds the ballast will also hold the track in place. I also glue a strip of N-scale cork on each side of the ties. This provides a nice ballast shoulder, reduces the oversize height of the ties, and holds the track in position prior to ballasting.

I have used only Gargraves Flextrack on 3 layouts built since 1992 and found that Dennis's method works very well. I install screws on curves, in particular at the flextrack joints where I am easing the joint inward under pressure to align the center rail over the marked centerline to make a perfect curve arc. 

After applying Brennan's Better Ballast using the old wet water glue mix method, I remove the screws, fill the tie holes and color the filler with a Sharpie.

Never had a track movement problem. 

I'll "3rd" DennisB's method. Although I am A 3RS Modeler, my entire layout is all Atlas O solid nickel silver track, which is glued to Vinyl Road Bed (now called FlexxBed), which was glued right to the 3/4" thick plywood. I have used nothing but Tight Bond Professional Wood Glue. 

I agree with those using ballast/glue to hold track in place, I never understand the obsession with nailing or screwing it in place...totally unecessary.

I am a user of the extruded foam sheet...2" thick over a 1/2" plywood base. I use cork roadbed glued on the foamboard and the wet water/matt medium method to hold my ballast/track in place. I also do a fair amount of handlaying to accomidate specific track needs. I find the wood ties glue to cork roadbed to be an entirely suitable system to hold track reliably. I can find no reason to avoid the extruded foam verses the Homasote. I've been using it for 7 years now without a single issue. It also works nicely for conturing the terrain in area I don't want to be flat. We each have our own needs for such methods. No one single approach is ironclad. Included is a photo of a scene on my railroad using the methods described. That's a 2 inch (8 scale feet) transition from the ballasted track to the waters edge in the lower left side. The foam works fine for me.

Bob

I can't find Quietbrace.  None of the Home Depots in the Richmond area carry it.

If you live anywhere near Grand Rapids Mi, I have a ton of homasote that I would like to get rid of it.  4X10 Sheets

I used Quietbrace.  It essentially accomplishes the same thing as Homasote but for about 1/3 to 1/4th the price.  And...by the way....I screw the track down because I found out why I didn't want to glue everything down when it was time to make a change or remove the track and switches. 

Alan

Three comments...

If you are in the areas of the country served by Menards, they sell Homasote.  (When I first inquired about the product years ago at HD and Lowes, their 'experts' gave me a funny look and asked ME what Homasote was!)

Second, I agree with Dennis re glue...no screws.  I think model railroaders are some of the least mindful of the qualities of the natural force...called g-r-a-v-i-t-y...when it comes to layout construction.  I would simply poke a finishing nail through the tie just to keep the track from shifting side-to-side, but gravity does a good job of holding things down.  Now, if you're building a layout that will be periodically stored tipped against a wall...or moved from military base to military base...then gravity, alone, may not be sufficient.

Thirdly, to minimize the dust from cutting Homasote...or closed-cell (white beaded) foam...I like to use a knife-blade in my electric saber saw.  Yes, they're somewhat hard to find at smaller hardware stores or big box stores that sell scented candles and dog toys across the aisle from their...'hardware/tools' area.  But larger hardware stores...those that have a serious offering of power tools and accessories...are the best choice for finding a knife blade for the saber saw.  When my wife and I first created our large Christmas village (Dept. 56) for the living room, we used this combo to cut all of the white beaded foam boards...right in the living room!  More...MANY more...renegade beads were kicked loose from handling than from the saber saw/knife blade.  Later, on the layout, I tried the same combo on Homasote with the same near-dust-free results.  HOWEVER!!....I did notice that the Homasote would dull the knife edge faster than did the foam.  No problem...a few swipes of the blade in the kitchen knife sharpener, and we were good to go!

So, FWIW...

KD