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Originally Posted by POTRZBE:

 I want to cut 4x2 panels from a 4x8 sheet.

Just use a decent hand saw if that all you want to do.  You could also use a utility knife with a new blade in it if you want to work a bit harder.

Could also use a sabre saw with a knife blade - they get dull pretty fast.

 

As everyone has said, it is best to use a sharp blade and a straight edge to cut Homasote.  Multiple passes are required.  Use a straight edge whenever possible.  You can do curves and freeform shapes but multiple passes are required.  The cut edge is cleaner than the factory cut edge.

 

Do put a coat of latex paint on all surfaces and edges to prevent dust but more important to prevent absorption of water. 

 

I had open-framed tables covered with Homasote last 20+ years before being permanently dismantled.  They were in perfect shape.

 

Jan

For straight cuts I use an Airway #6 knife.  The blade is way sharper and much thinner than a Stanley box knife.  You can cut your finger to the bone before you feel the injury.  don't ask me how I know.  Knife and blades available where floor covering supplies are sold.

 

Five passes against a steel straight edge raising the knife's angle of approach with each pass cleanly severs 1/2" Homosote.

 

After going through pallet quanties of Homosote my experience is that I have painted and not painted Homosote's faces and /or edges with the same result; no problem.

 

If you have problems with this product look rather to your layout's environment.

 

If you just take a snarley cut with a nasty blade your finished product, you will get out of you finished product what you put in it.......  Fine knife slices will be very clean.  Fine saw tooth cuts will be very managable

 

Done properly this product does not continually flake or dust.  Just like with computers, G.I.G.O.

 

I use a Porter Cable 5" hand held w/ vac. attached to dress all cuts.  Also a 32t metal purpose blade will give a cleaner saber saw cut.

 

After awhile you will find yourself cutting free hand on curved lines w/o any problem.  Quick and clean.  Replace or turn the Airway blade after 30 to 50 linear feet of cutting.  Replace the blade sooner than later.

 

Take your time, be patient and you will become an expert with Homosote.

Last edited by Tom Tee

I just cut it on the taligate of my pickup (outside obviously) and didn't worrry about the dust. Sawhorses would work too. After priming all edges, dust was no longer a problem. I've heard others claim Homosote is a bad product to use because it will absorb water and swell, but I guess I've never had bad enough moisture or humidity problems to make that an issue. It seems to be a good compromise between the loudness of plywood and the fastenter retention problems of foam. They all have their fixes though. As long as your trains are running it's all good! 

All of my layout, (some 500+ sq ft). is covered with Homosote.  Yes, it is dusty and creates a bit of a mess during cutting.  For that reason I would suggest that you try to cut virtually all the Homosote you are planning to use before you get into other projects, so you can clean up the  whole room at once.  Oh, you will always have some adjustments, future changes and installations, etc. to do, but in my case, when I had that to do, I tried to take the Homosote out to the garage to cut.

 

When I installed a turntable and had to cut out the circle, I tried to vacuum up immediately while a friend of mine did the actual cutting. 

 

One thing about Homosote as a sub base, (I do use cork roadbed directly beneath the track), is that all you need are 1" long nails to hold the track in place.  Screws don't hold much better than nails and are so unsightly.  We mount flexible Gargraves track and Ross switches simply by drilling a small hole through the ties and driving 1" black paneling nails through the tie, the roadbed and into the Homosote base.  Works great and is easy to move and relay if you must do it at a later date.  Can hardly see the nails when the track is down.

 

Paul Fischer

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