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Rob, I'm servicing a pair of F3 horizontal motors in anticipation of finishing a repaint project.  I'll lube w/ RnT the armature gear and idle gear.  I was referring to the oil that goes in the top of the motor.  Are you putting RnT in that hole?

 

I read Jim Barrett's article in the Digital Edition recently published on the subject of servicing PW horizontal motors and power trucks.  He could not have been more explicit in saying not to use grease in the hole on the top of the motor.  Hence, my confusion with your reply.

Yes, those 2333's have the Lucas grease injected into that hole labeled "Lubricant Reservoir" in the instructions.

 

I would NOT do this with "Lionel Lubricant" as instructed by Lionel, so in that regard, Barrett is correct. That old stuff is just nasty and can seize up solid over time.

 

The Red 'N' Tacky #2 is a whole new ball game, though, and I use it in all horizontal steam and diesel motors.

 

 

I haven't tried red and tacky but do have a few compact grease guns that would accomodate these tubes. I have replaced the zerk fitting tip with a pointed tip that would work here. They can be had in metal and rubber. The rubber tips will seal against small hole. One example can me seen here.

 

https://bigtoolstore.com/0-106...IP-4-GREASE-GUN.aspx

 

metal tip

 

https://bigtoolstore.com/0-106...EDLE-ADAPTOR-QD.aspx

 

Pete

Last edited by Norton

I would NOT do this with "Lionel Lubricant" as instructed by Lionel, so in that regard, Barrett is correct. That old stuff is just nasty and can seize up solid over time.

I have gotten some great buys on older Lionel trains because they were seized up due to dried out lubricant. If you have any old tubes of postwar Lionel grease, I suggest you keep it as a curiosity, or put it on display. I wouldn't use it.

Also, try not to over lubricate.
All the excessive grease and oil will do is collect dirt, and it can get into places it does not belong and cause your train to run poorly or not at all.

I asked my dentist about an irrigating dispenser that he had on the shelf in his office, it is plastic and has a rigid tapered curved tube with a plunger. It is about four inches long and with the plunger for dispensing works great, he gave me two. That tube of Red & Tacky will probably last me 100 years though.

Ray

Last edited by Rayin"S"

Just the opposite for me.  When I started using RNT my PW 2343 ABA unit starting voltage dropped from 5.75V to 3.70V.  Runs smoother and the "growl" is alot less. Not supposed to "slob" it on.  I use it in all my PW Geeps/FM's/682 also with great results. When the 2343ABA unit is run at 16V and shut off ubruptly , it will coast 18" b4 it stops!  I use one of my grandaughter's make-up brushes to just "paint" a VERY FINE FILM  of RNT on the drive gears.  Nothing in the worm gears.  Works better for my trains than all that white stuff with so-called "teflon", which turns into a nasty looking black mess that looks like cottage cheese.  Wont use nothing else.    JMHO

bob

Last edited by oldtimer

Drawing together all the opinions, it would seem that 3-in-One oil is fine for prewar wheels where there is no plastic. Although a low viscosity synthetic motor oil is a slightly better solution. A traditional mineral oil-based white lithium grease is fine for prewar and immediate postwar locomotive gears. For modern gears where there's plastic nearby, something like Labelle 106 thick grease or Lucas Red 'N' Tacky or a modern lithium grease with PTFE. Correct?

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