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I have replaced older coupler springs on postwar operating couplers.  I have driven out the rivet and salvaged or replaced them.

But on this dummy coupler the setup is different and the pin won't move.  If I hit the end of the rivet too hard with the pin punch it will probably peen over making it too fat to go through.

What is the secret?

20220709_16261620220709_162646600-0222-130

Thanks,

John

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The 2243-90 coupler is one piece. The coupler bracket 2243-91 is staked in place. You can slightly bend open the sheet metal to release the head.
Note that the above pictured spring looks normal and unbroken.

I bent it straight as I could, but I have 10 new ones so I would like to replace them.  I suppose I could bend the ends of the bracket open and slip the spring over the pin.

Thanks,

John

EDIT:  The bent bracket end trick worked like champ.  Thanks

Last edited by Craftech
@Lyinel posted:

Did you bend open the top of the truck or the bottom of the coupler?

I bent the top of the coupler bracket up by inserting a flat head screwdriver between the top of the coupler and the coupler bracket wiggling the screwdriver back and forth to slowly pry up the top of the bracket on both sides.

When it was up high enough, the coupler slipped out.  Insert new spring.  Held everything in place and placed the coupler/bracket assembly on top of a 10mm socket to support it while I pushed down vertically with the flat head screwdriver on the end of the bent up bracket until is was back where it belonged.  Hooked the ends of the spring on the bracket ends and it works like a champ.

John

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