In researching the prewar trains it appears that many have either had their wheels replaced, or are in need of having wheel replaced. Obviously, all original AND running is the most desirable, but that seems like an awful lot to locate. As a collector, I would assume original wheels are more desirable. I'm curious if that is true though. What makes a train more valuable, all original parts with swollen/cracked wheels making it nonrunning, or a train that is otherwise all original and running, but has had the wheels replaced?
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The nasty wheels don't look so good on display, I expect, so I'd say any form of authentic looking wheel is desirable.
You could always replace the wheels then keep the old wheels in a labeled bag, just in case someone wants to go back to the original equipment. At least you can run it instead of keeping it as a door stop.
I am pretty new to prewar trains. I know when I am at a show and I see an engine I may be interested in, the first thing I look at is the wheels. If they need to be replaced, I almost always put the item back on the table. I'm just not really interested in doing the job, and most items that are worth putting the extra money into seem to already have good wheels.
Keeping the old ones makes sense if you did replace them on an engine though.
J White
Just my opinion: Original wheels are desirable if they are still in usable condition. Unfortunately, even when they look OK, they are often swollen to the point that the wheels won't turn.
I'd rather have quality reproduction wheels than blown originals.
I don't think that hurts the value.
I'm with C.W. I want decent wheels so I can run the unit, and original wheels in good condition are so rare that it's hardly worth waiting for a locomotive that has originals. I think I have one prewar locomotive that is all original including the wheels, my 390E. I'd have to look to be sure, though. Only the most hard-core of collectors will make a big deal over repro wheels.
To an operator, replacement wheels add to the value if they are installed correctly.
A botched job with bent axles usually means I'll have to invest a bunch of money to make it right.
keqwow posted:In researching the prewar trains it appears that many have either had their wheels replaced, or are in need of having wheel replaced. ...
perhaps if you were focusing on a certain model series (say 3/16" scale, O gauge Flyer) or manufacturer (say late Dorfan), i could see the word "many" being used in this context, but in general i'd tend to say "some" on an overall basis of prewar trains. in my observations it appears the earlier the focus of your collection, the less this seems to be seen as a problem.
but to answer your question of the value being effected, as you say of course original wheels in running condition are desirable, but as the consensus seems to agree on, i'd prefer good replacements over swelled or cracked/ crumbling originals. imo well modeled replacement wheels have the least (by far) effect on value over any other replacement parts perhaps for the exception of wiring (including rewound armatures) in electric models or mainspring repair/ replacement for a clockwork locomotives.
model trains should be operational, but just as with 1:1 scale, many parts do not last forever and need to be overhauled occasionally.
cheers...gary
Most of all prewar standard gauge trains will need new wheels eventually, even if they are still good, because of zinc-pest. My biggest problem with the repro wheels is that they are the wrong shade of red. Especially these new MTH wheels. They are so much of a brighter red, that they stand out horribly. If your very patient, you can cut small pieces of masking tape, and make your way around the pressed on tire and tape the flange, and re-spray them with a darker shade of red. What I have found to be the best shade to match an original is, American Flyer Hamiltonian DARK red. I had an automotive paint shop mix me some quality paint matched from the inside of an original Hamiltonian car. The spray cans from "Woods" is not the correct color match for dark Hamiltonian red. It is almost maroon. I may try to post a before and after photos of my Blue Comet with MTH wheels that re-painted. These turned out a prefect color match to some of my original wheels, and made my Blue 400E look so much better.
Also, if the repro name embossed on the inside of the wheel bothers you, you can carefully file them off. They still will not have Lionel on them. But would have the new manufacturer's name off of them. I don't bother with that.
I hope the Harry Henning will paint his new wheels with the darker red when he starts making his new replacement wheels. Just put an MTH new wheel next to an original Lionel red wheel, and the MTH wheel looks almost orange!
Are all original prewar Lionel wheels (both O gauge and Standard) marked with the Lionel name?
As 400bill states you can just repaint them. I already done this with original wheels. As I mentioned before you can always re-wheel it and save the old wheels if you want to sell the item and it would be up to the buyer to put the old wheels on just to make a shelf non-working piece. From the prewar item that I have i never saw the Lionel name on them. I would not remove any name on the replacement wheels unless you want to resale it and decisive the buyer as all original piece.
I do have some Lionel standard gauge drive wheels that have "LIONEL" or "LIONEL LINES" on the inside casting.
And yes, about taking off the BOWSER, MEW or MTH of the repro wheels. There seems to be a lot of counterfeit trains out there. Probably, most are just from people that inherited or bought at an auction, and just think that it's original.
Have you guys seen the 408E that's listed right now as:
Lionel 408E locomotive standard gauge excellent condition
I am 99% positive that is a first edition Williams 408E (around 1973). I have one that looks just like it. That version is the paint job that matches those 1973 Lion Lines states cars. That's why I want a brown set of Lion Lines cars to go with it. Those early Williams 408's didn't have that glossy paint job, like the 1981 edition version. And the brass had no clear coat. So they have much patina now.
Bill
And I'll add this too. Have any of you seen the MTH 400E Blue Comet loco & tender that the seller said that he bought it as an original?
I too, took an MTH 400E apart, and striped the copper & brass from it's clear coat to get patina, and made some changes to give it a more original look, so it would fit in better with my original collection. But, my wife knows to tell whatever auction company that sells my collection when i pass away, that it is not original.
400Bill posted:And I'll add this too. Have any of you seen the MTH 400E Blue Comet loco & tender that the seller said that he bought it as an original?
I too, took an MTH 400E apart, and striped the copper & brass from it's clear coat to get patina, and made some changes to give it a more original look, so it would fit in better with my original collection. But, my wife knows to tell whatever auction company that sells my collection when i pass away, that it is not original.
Aren't the MTH reproductions all clearly marked differently on the underside than the originals?
We have been experimenting with the new Lionel standard gauge electric wheel castings that we are producing and other then the M.E.W. engraving, I think you would be hard pressed to tell the difference between original Lionel & our new wheels. We are pushing hard to have the nickel rims finished for final assembly by first week in January, and delivery by mid January. American Flyer "O" electric wheels to follow. Harry