How much Naphtha to thin Collector Color 2354 NYC LT GRAY for painting F3 Shells w AZTEK A2203?

I use 10o/o ratio with thinner. 

I have used that same airbrush and generally found it better than a more expensive Aztec model, which has a tendency to spit/spatter the paint. Generally I find that you need to thin the paint down to the consistency of skim milk, which may require more than 10% thinning. There is no substitute for a test run with the first batch before applying it to the model.

Hi HANCOCK52. I did thin the paint down and did a test run on an old Plasticville house. The spray seemed to work fine.

I have another question. I painted the F3 shell with the thinned down Collector Color, and it still feels tacky after two days. Is that normal? Will too much or too little thinner affect the drying time? Thanks for your help. 

To make thinning easier mix two parts paint to one part thinner. Skim milk thicknes is the ticket. Tacky after two days is somewhat normal for that paint.  Depends on drying temp and humidity. Put it in the sunlight if possible, or inside a box with a light bulb for heat.  After 4 days it should dry to touch but enamel dries for a long time.

Rob

Hi OLDROB. Thanks so much for the info. I was worried that I did something wrong. It's only been two days and still tacky. I'll let if go for a couple of more days and re-coat. I'll try to rig up some sort of light heat source too. 

Rob, Have you had a problem with slow drying of Collector Color? Charles Wood enamel takes forever to dry but I had had better luck with Collector Color drying much faster and prefer it for that reason. Hard to beat Charles Wood paint on tinplate though if you want that high gloss.

2/3 paint , 1/3 thinner works for me though.

Pete

I have used both paints successfully. Tried several thinner types. Went back to Naptha with Hennings paint. I think I have it down pretty good now. I use a drip test to determine if paint is ready to spray. Put a small flat blade screw driver inside the paint mix jar and drag it up the side above the paint to see how fast it runs back down. Charlies paint airbrushes well, I did not like the spray cans.

Rob

Dontano, you don't want to spray too thick coats with enamel. Wait 5 minutes between coats. One heavy coat is not good with this paint. Thick paint will slow dry time.

Rob

Some - maybe most - rattle can enamels are formulated to be quick drying. I do find that with thinned down bottle enamel sprayed with an airbrush drying time can be long especially if you've laid on a relatively thick coat. As has already been said, a few thinner coats is preferable rather than trying to cover the surface all at once and what pressure and type of Aztec nozzle you use makes a difference. In any case you have to be patient and allow for indoor humidity, which always has an effect on how long paint takes to set. 

I generally only use acrylic paints now rather than older model train paints as the drying time is a lot quicker. 

Naphtha as the thinner is the key to a faster drying time. It has a much faster 'flash' point. I can all the paint personally and the lid is 'hand painted ' with a 1/2" paint brush. The paint is stored 'overnight' in the living room of our house. Next day it is then 'walked' over to the store, (right across the street). Bill then prints and hand cuts out the labels, and Ron applies to the can. The paint at this point is less then 30 hours old, and completely dry to the touch. Our pre-war colors are all 'gloss'  enamels. Most all post war are 'satin' finish. A really high gloss can be achieved by 'baking' @ 210 degrees  sitting on the door of an oven for about 15 minutes. This is the way I bake the paint on our MEW wheels, the station metal chimneys , and an occasional item that I restore. I personally like the Paasche #62  3 oz. sprayer that we sell. There are no adjustments to concern yourself with, and you can spray w/ a thicker coat for that original look that Lionel attained when 'trough dipping' their items.  Hope this helps.  Harry

Harry, I didn't realize your post war colors have less gloss your pre war colors. I have only used your Post War colors so far which is why I thought they had less gloss than Charlie's paints. Now I know why.

Pete

I bought that Paashe #62 sprayer and it blew too much paint out too quick. I never used it again. I like your paint Harry. What you brush on the lid may be dry to touch in 30 hours,  but a car body fully painted takes 48 to dry to where it isn't sticky at all. I don't handle them for at least another full day or more. That is my experience. 

I keep a temp and humidity gauge in my garage. If humidity goes over 68% or its over 80 degrees I don't paint. Sometimes I have to go out there early in the morning to paint.

Rob