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PLCProf posted:
ADCX Rob posted:


K-Line 952d [1)K-Line 952d [2)K-Line 952d [3)

I never saw one of those, but I would suspect it is an AC wall wart and some diodes that duplicates the function of the PW rectifier and boost winding. Shame they aren't still available.

Certainly would like a peek at what they did and how they did it! A schematic would be uber-cool!

Now.....back to gluing the core of my ZW transformer back together! I just have too many priorities, but I found a spare hour today!!!

Nobody has actually suggested how to add a bell control directly to a PW ZW. It's easy, if you are using only one throttle. Use the whistle controller for the second throttle and turn it into a bell controller. Switch out the wiring so both whistle controllers operate on one throttle. Replace the disk rectifiers each with a single zener diode. Rip out the asbestos resistors.  Swap the direction of one of the zeners. Now one whistle controller works the bell, and one works the whistle. Simple. And you don't get a voltage drop because you have compensating windings on both the whistle and bell functions.

If you are using both throttles, you can also retrieve a couple of wires out of the transformer off the compensating winding,  run them into a couple of DPDT momentary push buttons in order to throw the influence of the  zener diode and some extra compensating voltage into the track power to activate the bell.

And with the zener diodes you wont get that speed surge when the horn is activated on a modern era loco.

Last edited by GregR
Pine Creek Railroad posted:

Gentlemen,

   Still IMO the best way is to just add the DCS to your layout, and use your ZW as the power. Opens a lot of great engineering doors for the layout also.

PCRR/Dave

I don't doubt that DCS adds a lot to the operating experience, though it is not my preferred command system.  In any case I don't think recommending a $300 command system is the "best" way to add a bell button to a ZW.  If I walked into an LHS and they did that, I'd be sure to never walk in the door again, as a $15 bell button will get the job done.  

As a side question, would a DCS system even solve the more complex issue being discussed?  Does DCS boost track voltage when the whistle/bell is activated?  

JGL

Truthfully, the DCS system is only so-so for conventional operation.  It has pretty coarse voltage steps, and the sawtooth waveform is not kind to some locomotives.  Also, whistle & bell functions are spotty with many conventional locomotives.  I use it for testing repairs here, but many times I have to break out a real transformer for conventional testing.

JGL,

   Wait just one sec, the question did not say anything about the cheapest way to add this bell control.  All the different functions work well with the DCS, I especially like the way it operates my original conventional Williams Engines, fantastic stuff.  Further it gives him full remote control operation of his conventional layout.  He adds both the bell function and full remote control with the DCS hand held, IMO still the best way to go, if he has the money.  Now the cheapest way is still the 5906 Lionel Bell control button, least expansive also.

PCRR/Dave

 

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad
gunrunnerjohn posted:

I made a box like this years ago, it took a total of ten diodes to get it to work reliably.  Ignore the extra terminals on the pushbuttons, it was a junkbox build, and those were the switches I had handy.  The switches are wired NC, they open when pressed.  Each switch shorts four of the five diodes in the string for normal running so only one diode pair is in the power path.  Either switch gives a DC offset, one negative, one positive.

They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, so be flattered! I'm thinking my version must look just a bit familiar to you!

IMG_8356

Works like a charm with just 5 diodes per leg!

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  • IMG_8356
Last edited by GeoPeg

John,

I am thinking of making a few of these up in a four channel configuration.  So that they can each handle bell/whistle for all 4 ZW channels. Will also add a fuse for each channel.  Each box would have 5 inputs (4 ch + common) and 5 out.  4 fuses and 8 whistle/horn buttons.

What model number of diode do you recommend?

-Bill

 

Bill, I'd use a 6A diode, and for universal compatibility, I'd consider adding an extra diode.  So, the switches would short out five of six diodes in each string to trigger either the whistle or bell.  I've not had an issue with the five diodes, but several people have commented that they needed six diodes, switching 5 of them to trigger the function.

Ten for $2.98 shipped from a US seller if you're in a hurry, eBay: 271388093297

Ten for $0.99 shipped from China if you're more patient, eBay: 262458088731

 

Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

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