how to apply waterslide decals

Hmmm......I assume no one knows. I'll figure it out. YouTube has some vids.

Thanks

The procedure varies by brand and age of decals and you have shared neither.   John in Lansing, ILL

rattler21 posted:

The procedure varies by brand and age of decals and you have shared neither.   John in Lansing, ILL

What don't you understand about "I bought a bunch from Dave at LBR last year and just getting around to applying them. I am doing a 671rr and (2) 726's." ?

It says they are a year old. It says they are LBR. It says a 671rr and 726.

 Get some Windex on those glasses. 

I am currently a decal manufacture.....and have been for more years than I care to say!!!

Start with a clean and glossy surface. Use whatever method you like to get there. I like a clear spray like Testors gloss coat or Tamiya.

Regardless of decal type here is how I apply decals.

I cut the decal from the sheet as close to the image as possible. I have a small pair of scissors that are sharp and easy to cut around small images.

Using tweezers I dip the decal in warm water for about 10 seconds.

I place decal on a damp paper towel and allow the decal to ‘cook’ as its called. This can vary by decal paper maker. It can be anywhere from 30 seconds to a minute or two. When decal moves easily on paper backing it is ready to apply.

On surface of model put two or three drops of water. With tweezers place decal on model body where you want to apply. With your finger move the decal image off the paper just enough to use your tweezers to pull the decal paper from under the decal image. This will keep as much air out from under the decal.

Position the decal image in the exact spot you want it. With the slightly damp paper towel blot the water from the decal.

Making sure the decal is positioned in the correct spot, make a squeegee from the damp paper towel and from the center of the decal out to the edge squeegee out all the water and some of the glue. This will keep the decal from turning yellow as it ages.

IF needed I will use Walthers Solvaset decal solution. Go light as it is a strong solvent but works
Well for me.

After the decals dry for a day or two I apply a coat of Future Floor Shine with a 1 in wide soft sable brush that is only used for Future. Allow to dry overnight and all should be good!!!

Good luck!

MattR posted:

Hmmm......I assume no one knows. I'll figure it out. YouTube has some vids.

Thanks

rattler21 posted:

The procedure varies by brand and age of decals and you have shared neither.   John in Lansing, ILL

What don't you understand about "I bought a bunch from Dave at LBR last year and just getting around to applying them. I am doing a 671rr and (2) 726's." ?

It says they are a year old. It says they are LBR. It says a 671rr and 726.

 Get some Windex on those glasses. 

MattR,
First, don't be so impatient. 
Second, don't be so snarky! You are the one that needs the help!
Third, there is more to decaling than what AMCDave posted, so, Rattler21's post is very true.
     While applying decals is pretty straight forward, like anything else there are "tricks of the trade", so to speak, as to getting different manufacturers decals to set properly. Age does matter as old decals can crack and again there are ways to deal with this.

Good luck learning a new skill.

Big Jim posted:

MattR posted:

Hmmm......I assume no one knows. I'll figure it out. YouTube has some vids.

Thanks

 

MattR,
First, don't be so impatient. 

I'd normally be first to jump in on a decal post......but I spent Thur-Sun attending a funeral at Arlington in DC. So sometime give the forum just a little time....the answers are here 99.99% of the time. thx

AMCDave posted:

I am currently a decal manufacture.....and have been for more years than I care to say!!!

Start with a clean and glossy surface. Use whatever method you like to get there. I like a clear spray like Testors gloss coat or Tamiya.

Regardless of decal type here is how I apply decals.

I cut the decal from the sheet as close to the image as possible. I have a small pair of scissors that are sharp and easy to cut around small images.

Using tweezers I dip the decal in warm water for about 10 seconds.

I place decal on a damp paper towel and allow the decal to ‘cook’ as its called. This can vary by decal paper maker. It can be anywhere from 30 seconds to a minute or two. When decal moves easily on paper backing it is ready to apply.

On surface of model put two or three drops of water. With tweezers place decal on model body where you want to apply. With your finger move the decal image off the paper just enough to use your tweezers to pull the decal paper from under the decal image. This will keep as much air out from under the decal.

Position the decal image in the exact spot you want it. With the slightly damp paper towel blot the water from the decal.

Making sure the decal is positioned in the correct spot, make a squeegee from the damp paper towel and from the center of the decal out to the edge squeegee out all the water and some of the glue. This will keep the decal from turning yellow as it ages.

IF needed I will use Walthers Solvaset decal solution. Go light as it is a strong solvent but works
Well for me.

After the decals dry for a day or two I apply a coat of Future Floor Shine with a 1 in wide soft sable brush that is only used for Future. Allow to dry overnight and all should be good!!!

Good luck!

 

 

Dave, do you see a problem with applying Future both before and after the decal application?

Dave, do you see a problem with applying Future both before and after the decal application?

It's a common practice that the military model guys use a lot.  (flat paint finishes) So it should go well....as always test if possible. 

Thanks a lot Dave. You explained it very well. I was also emailed yesterday an instruction sheet from LBR. I think I'll get it. Just so small to work with.

Dave, can I just spray clear coat over it after it's applied? I don't have the Walther's super juice. I live hundreds of miles from the nearest hobby store.

BigJim was happy to chime in but didn't offer a lick of advice. Thanks Jim!!

Thank you Dave

Matt

 

.........can I just spray clear coat over it after it's applied?

Most folks do use something to seal the decal - Dull Coat generally

I don't have the Walther's super juice. I live hundreds of miles from the nearest hobby store.

Have you got a USPS address? You could order it directly from Walthers and have it delivered. 

MattR posted:

Thanks a lot Dave. You explained it very well. I was also emailed yesterday an instruction sheet from LBR. I think I'll get it. Just so small to work with.

Dave, can I just spray clear coat over it after it's applied? I don't have the Walther's super juice. I live hundreds of miles from the nearest hobby store.

BigJim was happy to chime in but didn't offer a lick of advice. Thanks Jim!!

 

Thank you Dave

Matt

You can spray clear over decals after they have set for a few days....but different decals react differently to the various clears......so it's hard to tell how things will work. The 'Pledge with Future' as it is now called has never reacted badly. It is sold at any big box store. 

Walthers Solvaset is needed for decals applied to a surface like diesel loco hood were the decal needs to conform to a surface that is varied or uneven.  You can order it from their website too. 

I agree completely with RATTLER21 and AMCDAVE, I have decaled many cars using older production Champ & Walthers decals and current production PROTOCRAFT  decals. I also plan ahead and layout the decal position using a see through gridded 6 inch flexible ruler (C-ruler) and 3 mm mechanical pencil with soft lead HB to mark the decal position. The soft graphite HB lead is easy to remove using water and paper towel. Also using very old decals, I apply a decal preserver that is allowed to dry completely. 

MattR posted:

Dave, can I just spray clear coat over it after it's applied? I don't have the Walther's super juice. I live hundreds of miles from the nearest hobby store.

BigJim was happy to chime in but didn't offer a lick of advice. Thanks Jim!!

No, you can not!
You need to make sure that all of the air bubbles are out from under the decal or you will wind up with "silvering". "Silvering" is an air bubble under the decal that looks "silver" instead of looking like the color of the body. This is the main reason to use setting solution. I use a Q-Tip® to roll over and squeegee out the air. After drying, if bubbles persist, I will use a sharp needle or the point of a new X-Acto blade to slightly prick the surface and the add more setting solution and squeegee until all of the bubbles are gone.
And, there is a proper way to use setting solutions. Different solutions for different types of decals. 
Solvaset works great on thicker decals such as Champ, but, will melt very thin decals such as Micro-Scale decals right now! When using Micro-Scale decals use their setting solutions and whatever you do FOLLOW THEIR INSTRUCTION!!!

And, being snarky while asking for help will get you what you deserve. You're WELCOME!

Clear spray will not work like a decal solvent will...(Solvaset etc) and make the decal conform to surface.......but a clear protective coat applied after the decal is correctly applied should be used.  Air trapped under the decal causes 'silvering' which on a solvent will correct.  

AMCDave posted:

Clear spray will not work like a decal solvent will...(Solvaset etc) and make the decal conform to surface.......but a clear protective coat applied after the decal is correctly applied should be used.  Air trapped under the decal causes 'silvering' which on a solvent will correct.  

True cubed.

I think I'll order some solvset.

Thank you for the help

Not sure if this is common knowledge, but I dilute Solvoset 50/50 with water to avoid "melting" decals.

 Great advice about setting the decal to "cook" on damp paper towel. I will need to use that trick next time

Al

albertstrains posted:

Not sure if this is common knowledge, but I dilute Solvoset 50/50 with water to avoid "melting" decals.

 Great advice about setting the decal to "cook" on damp paper towel. I will need to use that trick next time

Al

That is a good tip to keep in mind about cutting the Solvaset. Oddly enough, I have seen some model car decals that Solvaset wouldn't even phase!

As for "cooking" on a damp paper towel, why waste a paper towel? I just let them set on a saucer or other waterproof surface until ready.