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We are in the process of installing/replacing a 6' bridge on one end of the club layout. We have never had, a way to cut the power from both sides of the bridge, when it has been raised. Needless to say we've had a couple of close accidents of trains going to the floor when the bridge is raised.

As most of us members are getting older, the bridge hinges will get more work, as time wears ON!  

I'm asking you guys What Would You, and How Would You, install some sort of switching devise, to cut the power when the bridge is raised, or ajar?

I thank you guys in advance, as you are always helpful to me and our club!.............................................Brandy!

I for got to say that we are 3 rail Gargraves, w/Ross & Gargraves switches, if that makes a difference......................... 

 

Last edited by Brandy
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You asked how I would do it.  I am not the most knowledgeable, but I would just add a micro switch and use a relay to cut power to a block before and after the bridge.  Depending on how fast you run, you probably only need a 3 or 4 section block.

I'm not sure how LEGACY and TMCC locos would like that.  The sounds and everything would go away.

Another option that would work well on a conventional layout would be to use the relay to switch in either diodes or resistors or a secondary transformer at down around 2 volts.  Train would come to nearly a stop but the sounds, headlight, etc would stay on.

I use two micro switches (one on each end of the bridge) to close the circuit to dead sections of rail extending severl feet back from the span.  Thea serves well to keep distracted operators from running into the void or upright bridge.  What that doesn't address is someone backing a train longer than the dead section into trouble.  Last year I posted photos and text showing how I built and wired my lift (it swings up) section.     If you search through my posts you'll find it.

I use a relay and insulated sections on either side of my dropdown bridge, which also works on my Atlas Bridge.  Here is a diagram:

Basically, I took the sections above (center one is the bridge) and isolated the them.  Then I got a relay with a dedicated transformer and put an interrupt inline with the power (the latches for the bridge section).  On my Atlas bridge, I used RC plugs.  For your application, a mini switch that disengages when the bridge is up would work.  Then I took my track power to the input side of the relay, and ran wires from the output side.  When the latches are closed, I have power from C1 to A1 and C2 to A2.  When they are disengaged, then the relay trips and power is cut to the tracks.

Last edited by C&O Allan
The GN Man posted:

I have not seen this in the model RR world but many real RR bridges incorporate powered de-rails near the bridge approaches, to put an uncontrolled engine or car "on the ground" as opposed to "in the water".  If anyone has done this in O scale, please share!

One of our engineman didn't get quite stopped before  a open swing bridge. He went over the  derail but not in the drink.   I suppose it wasn't funny but he tried to back up with the engines on the ground. When unsuccessful he  walked to the highway and hitch  hiked home only to heard of a  week  or so later.

As a result he was given professional help and later became     a permanent  fireman.   

 

Last edited by Gregg

How about the bridge getting the feeders wire  right at the hinged end on the bridge (underneath) ,  the bridge now  distributes the power to each block on either side via Plugs .    I guess it depends on whether  you want to bridge to be operational or is it  just set in place  while operating the layout.

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