How To Keep Couplers From Opening And Seperating On A Modular Layout?

I use small black zip ties.

I got mine at Lowes and they are made by Gardner Bender. They are in the electrical department close to the electrical tools.

Barnes Distributing is also another source along with Fastenal.

The zip tie is only about 3/16" wide and is about 6" long.

With the zip tie in place and the excess portion cut off flush you really have to look hard to see it wrapped around the coupler.

At times I pull up to 20 loaded coal hoppers and everything stays together even around (2) O31 curves.

Good luck!!!!

Were the couplers actually opening, or were both closed at the point of the breakaway? If one or more was open, and they are the thumb tack type, you can try to GENTLY bend the arm with the pin an thumb tack slightly upward. A pair of needle nose pliers works well. GENTLY is the operative word! If that fails, use a small, black, plastic wire tie to secure the arm with the coupler in the closed position. (Cut off the tail after snugging into position.) Note that this effectively disables the coupler, but does allow it to be returned to operational status simply by cutting the tie off.

If both couplers are closed, then one coupler is riding high and /or one is riding low. You will have to observe which one is going which way. Depending on the way the coupler is mounted to the truck, it MAY be possible to bend the mount of the offender in the appropriate direction to resolve the problem. Again, needle nose pliers are your best tool for the job.

Good luck, and let us know how things turn out!

Chris

LVHR

We exclusively use genuine, premium quality Kadee rubber bands on our modular layout. Just slip them over the coupler and double them up until the coupler is held snugly closed. A good substitute are the little orthodontic rubber bands.

Gilly

Thank you for the reply Chris.  Most of the time only one coupler was opening.  I am going to try wire as a last resort.  I was wondering  what might the best type of stretchable type of band that would work good? 

I'll have to observe next time I run on the layout which cars broke away due to being mismatched in height.  I was thinking of putting a stretchable type of band in a figure 8 pattern between the 2 couplers.

I custom cut black bands from bicycle inner tubes.  Inexpensive and difficult to see in use.

I use these. you can not see them unless you look close.

tiny rubber bands

If you have a coupler that opens under load, you have two options.  By load I mean 30+ cars.  First piton is put the troublesome coupler/car near the rear of the train.  Second option is to use a small drop of glue on the coupler hinge joint...let it dry first...the. Reintroduced in train.

quote:

I also need some suggestions to keep the couplers from riding up and off of each other with enough give as not to derail.

This is a layout problem, not a train problem. If the couplers are separating vertically, then more attention needs to be given to the height of the modules when the layout is assembled. Put a level or straight edge along the rails over the module joint to remove any drops or ramps.

I second Boilermaker1's comment. I belong the the Independent Hi-Railers, Mid-West Division, and our modular layout has been as large as 70+ feet by 90+ feet, and we go to great lengths to make sure each and ever module is the same height. Plus, many of us have all Kadee coupler equipped locomotives and cars, and we don't have uncoupling issues with either types of couplers.

There are couplers that actually pull by each other for a lack of a better term.. When you check to see which coupler opened both are still closed. I don't mean  the high low pull apart. The 3 rail coupler needs a slight design upgrade at the end of the knuckle similar to kadees    Kind of a grove  or latch, not round. 

We have not had any problems like that either, with all our Kadee equipped couplers. Even with the VERY long scale 80/85 foot passenger cars and auto racks equipped with "original claw couplers", by keeping our modules all at the same height, everything seems to work fine. However, we have had many issues with the older Weaver brand of non-diecast (plastic) couplers.

There are black plastic wire ties in 4 inch lengths that work perfectly for keeping couplers closed. Pull them tight and cut off the excess and you will not have any problems with them opening again.. Some couplers are more troublesome than others.

KD's are a good solution for a permanent fix and still have working couplers.

I've had this happen with some, not all, Lionel 2500 series passenger cars from the late 90's.