I added MTH smoke fluid to 3 PS2 engines, Now No Smoke?

Did you blow down the stack to clear any air bubbles?

Hi Don,

Never heard about that.  The steam engine started blowing bubbles for a second.  The diesels never bubbled?

I have experienced the same thing with different engines.  Some just smoke intemittantly.  But, I found that if I continue to run them and increase power the smoke will come.  It seems with a low power supply the smoke does not function properly.

Bubbles is a sure sign over over-dosing.

The element is likely drowned in fluid, and the heat is causing the fluid to vaporize and bubble.

The remedy is to get most of the fluid out as best you can.

If you tip the engine upside down you will make a huge mess inside the shell.

A better way to do this is to  insert Q-tips or pipe cleaners down the stack and soak the stuff up until they come out reasonable dry, with the engine right side up.

You will have to do this several times with a new Q-tip each time.

The proper fluid amount is 15-20 drops. This is about 3/4" of fluid in a dropper.

Rod

Oh oh...  I most likely put to much in.  I will try the cue tip on the steam engine stack. Mon the diesels I guess I could pull the shells and then turn them up-side down. And have towel over the opening.

If you put more than about 2/3 of a single dropper in, you put too much fluid in as Rod says!  You may have to open it up if it's gotten all over things.  Also, excess fluid will leak into the fan chamber and frequently kills the fan motor.

Unscrewing the shell screws while upright is challenging but can be done.

Once the shell is free you should be able to use the same Q-tip trick.

Don't feel bad; we have all been there.

Rod

But Rod, we typically only go there once!   When the smoke fluid is dripping down on the track, that's a dead giveaway that there is too much!

 I don't add the fluid while it's running. I'm not sure how the hot elements like cold fluid hitting them?? I've always added it while their off. A few drops (less than 10?) is all they need, depending on how often you use it. I add a little, more often, so they don't ever run dry.
 I've had them overfilled and they won't smoke until you lower the level.

The wisdom from Lionel (and I presume it applies to MTH) is to allow the unit to cool for a few minutes before adding fluid.

Can't argue with that logic.

Realistically though the fluid drips into the front empty part of the chamber where it hits only the wicking.

I usually shut the smoker off before adding fluid, but only so the fan is not trying to blow air out the stack at the same time I am adding fluid. So it's only for a few seconds usually.

Seems to work OK. 

Rod

Well...  I guess I'm learning the hard way.  I appreciate the shared knowledge.  I have never taken one of these apart before.  They may be burned because I never added fluid other than maybe 1/2 of the little bottles they came with.  I think since I had this big ole 2 oz jug I was going to catch up

The 8-8-0 started smoking and now works fine.  The ABA ran the rails and then started smoking from the one of the A units only, let it run for about 15 minutes and the other A unit never smoked, when the working A  unit started smoking near the trucks I knew it was going to get messy!  Time to shut her down.

The GP38 ran the rails with the shell off for about 15 minutes and never smoked...  so I decided to open it up and shut the fan motor down.

I pulled the shells from both A units even the one that was working since it was smoking near the wheels.  It was oily in there but the electroinc didn't seem to be wet in either of the A units and the GP 38.  They will take some good cleaning before I reassemble.

Amyway, I took the two non working smoke units apart.

The first picture is of the wick in the F3 A unit (that doesn't smoke at all).

I didn't open the working F3 A unit  smoke unit because I think I can clean up inside the shell and be good to go.  Unless you think I should open it up as well to inspect the fan and or wick?  It's oily inside that shell but it definitely smokes!

The 2nd picture is the wick in the GP38 (that doesn't smoke at all)

The wicks look scorched, the locomotive manual shows a black and white picture of good and bad but I cant even see the difference in the book...

Can I make these wicks work?  I moved the material alittle so it's not pinched at the burned spots?

Not even sure if this is why they dont smoke...  Is there a heating element voltage check that you guys perform?

hmmm...  The bottom picture was the gp38, I took the wick sections and re-seated them between the elements and caged the hairy beast as best I could.  Although the bond between the reservoir and the fan came apart.  Actually inside the reservoir there was a clear film like a liner that may have been blocking the little path between the fan and the oil reservoir, I repostioned it.  In addition if you look at the picture there is a piece of  brown top gasket stuck to the corner...  I decided to put it back together and try it on the rails.

Wow it worked!  for a 1 loop.   The fan did sound healthier this time around.  The smoke did pour out nicely while it lasted.  When I originally had it apart I never did refill with smoke.  There was that new bottle of fluid just begging for a 2nd chance.  Well I added more and as I was putting it in I get one puff, added some more another puff.  Then the chassis started looking oily again.  I wonder if it' leaking out the bottom some how.  Now I'm reconsidering smoke free again.

I brought it back upstairs and am going to open it up again.  Do they sell a gasket kit that is supposed to be replaced as part of opening the unit?

Have not messed with the F3 (A unit) yet, that one has a super long wick! 

These three engines (apart) are consuming my kitchen counter, I'm now getting the LQQK...  You know.

If the fan(s) are making any odd sounds, you may want to clean them up and properly lubricate them.  Whatever is in the smoke fluid apparently doesn't make a good lubricant for the fan bearings.

What I do is use contact cleaner to try to flush out any excess smoke fluid, then I use a very light machine oil (gun oil to be exact) to lube the bronze bearings.  I've brought a number of noisy fans back that way, and I haven't had to go back to any of them again.  In a couple of extreme cases, I've actually cracked the case of the motor and cleaned the brushes, but I doubt that's needed here.

The fan is spinning, with the shell still off I'm able to look in the hole (w/flashlight) and see the fan spinning... Doesn't make any odd noise and can feel that it does move some air.

Do I need any parts?

The top gasket, the clear liner inside the reservoir, the thick spacer- (between fan and reservoir) and brown top gasket and wicks.  My attempt last night was all with the GP38 w/the shorter wicks..

Can it be cleaned and reassembled with what's there or do I need to get parts?  Atleast if the super long wick looks presentable (for the F3) I'd like to at least get that one back together. 

If all that is intact, just clean it all up and put it back together.  If it's pretty much dry of smoke fluid, put in about 15 drops and fire it up.  If the fan runs, and the wick is not cooked, it should start smoking.