Hi Guys & gals
I would like to convert a Williams Gp-30 to Proto sound -2.0 or 3.0.
How easy or hard to convert?
Thanks in Advance
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Hi Guys & gals
I would like to convert a Williams Gp-30 to Proto sound -2.0 or 3.0.
How easy or hard to convert?
Thanks in Advance
Replies sorted oldest to newest
The PS2 conversion kits are 160.00 They have detailed instructions of how to do it Its not easy It takes a long time on the first one you do As long as you take your time and read every instruction its not that bad
On the other hand, if you choose TMCC instead of Proto, the installation is pretty easy.
I've bought used MTH PS 2.0 GP's for less than $160......Might be a LOT easier!!!
I like Dave's idea. Anytime I see a Command engine for under 200 bucks I consider it a deal. That said if the Williams engine didn't cost that much to begin with then its worth upgrading. There are trade offs between TMCC and PS2 upgrades. The PS2 kits come with just about everything you need including lights and couplers, but without smoke units. You do have to install a sound file. TMCC is more a la cart. Sounds, couplers, lights, tethers in the case of steam have to selected.
Pete
The answer depends on your skill level. If you can solder and do basic wiring, it shouldn't be an issue. I always find the hardest part is stripping the chassis and adding the various holes for stuff like the volume control, smoke switch, charging port, board mounting, etc. Once the mechanical stuff is out of the way, it's just an assembly task, and the book is pretty good as far as the instructions go.
Another option is to sell your Williams GP and pick up a RK PS2 model on the secondary market. Probably cheaper and you will have a factory installation. Some might even have smoke. Don't know about the MTH Geeps but their RK RS1s do.....
Just make sure you don't buy one with the old 5V boards!
Just make sure you don't buy one with the old 5V boards!
How do you know which boards are in the engine?
Just make sure you don't buy one with the old 5V boards!
How do you know which boards are in the engine?
A: look on the bottom of the engine, if it has a circular charging port, it is 5v, if it is rectangular, it is 3v (the better one.) B: look up the item number on the mth website (i.e. 20-3045-1) and look in the manual, if it has a 8.4v battery, it is 5v boards, if a 2.4, 3v boards.
P.S. a good cheat, if it was made in or before the 2003 volume 1 catalog, it is 5v, if 2003-2006, check manual on website, after that up to ps3, it's 3v.
The answer depends on your skill level. If you can solder and do basic wiring, it shouldn't be an issue. I always find the hardest part is stripping the chassis and adding the various holes for stuff like the volume control, smoke switch, charging port, board mounting, etc. Once the mechanical stuff is out of the way, it's just an assembly task, and the book is pretty good as far as the instructions go.
John,
How would that go with the conversion of a Lionel TMCC steam engine with the IR tether to PS2. The engine I have -- purchased on the forum -- is gorgeous in its level of detail but the TMCC control is balky and the sound quality is awful. I can do the work but don't want to sign up for something that won't work.
Thanks, S
How would that go with the conversion of a Lionel TMCC steam engine with the IR tether to PS2. The engine I have -- purchased on the forum -- is gorgeous in its level of detail but the TMCC control is balky and the sound quality is awful. I can do the work but don't want to sign up for something that won't work.
Thanks, S
I think your biggest hurdle here would be to create a slot for the tether connector in the engine. You could use a connector with a loose cable on the engine side but that would look pretty sloppy.
This engine had a connector but was too small to handle all of the wires.
Pete
The answer depends on your skill level. If you can solder and do basic wiring, it shouldn't be an issue. I always find the hardest part is stripping the chassis and adding the various holes for stuff like the volume control, smoke switch, charging port, board mounting, etc. Once the mechanical stuff is out of the way, it's just an assembly task, and the book is pretty good as far as the instructions go.
John,
How would that go with the conversion of a Lionel TMCC steam engine with the IR tether to PS2. The engine I have -- purchased on the forum -- is gorgeous in its level of detail but the TMCC control is balky and the sound quality is awful. I can do the work but don't want to sign up for something that won't work.
Thanks, S
Scott, The PS-2 would go in tender. So if that fits the issue is engine mods. First, need a DC motor with flywheel, second the smoke unit needs major mods to remove any chassis ground on the heating element.
Examine the rear as Pete posted. May need some mods, but I have also used horizontal PCBs like the diesels have to make it work. G
Hi Guys & gals
I would like to convert a Williams Gp-30 to Proto sound -2.0 or 3.0.
How easy or hard to convert?
Thanks in Advance
Williams is not hard at all. If this has DC motors with flywheels and no smoke unit, it has plenty of room. You do need basic skills and you can read the upgrade instructions posted from MTH website to see if this is something your capable of doing. G
The answer depends on your skill level. If you can solder and do basic wiring, it shouldn't be an issue. I always find the hardest part is stripping the chassis and adding the various holes for stuff like the volume control, smoke switch, charging port, board mounting, etc. Once the mechanical stuff is out of the way, it's just an assembly task, and the book is pretty good as far as the instructions go.
John,
How would that go with the conversion of a Lionel TMCC steam engine with the IR tether to PS2. The engine I have -- purchased on the forum -- is gorgeous in its level of detail but the TMCC control is balky and the sound quality is awful. I can do the work but don't want to sign up for something that won't work.
Thanks, S
Scott, The PS-2 would go in tender. So if that fits the issue is engine mods. First, need a DC motor with flywheel, second the smoke unit needs major mods to remove any chassis ground on the heating element.
Examine the rear as Pete posted. May need some mods, but I have also used horizontal PCBs like the diesels have to make it work. G
G, thanks to both you and Pete. The engine connection as Pete pointed out is what worries me. My first step will be to remove the tender and engine shells to see what's in there and compare that against the PS2 install manual that I can download.
Pete,
In the photo you provided is the freshly machined spot a modification you did to fit the upgrade connector? If so, how did you get that done?
Thanks, S
Scott, That was done on a Bridgeport mill. Years ago I assembled a fairly complete machine shop to work on my motorcycles. It has come in handy for train projects as well.
If there is room on your engine you could achieve similar results with a Dremel and a steady hand. It would just take a little longer.
Pete
I faced that issue not long ago. I had a scale steamer with no place for the tether. I ended up drilling out the auger spot and feeding the tether through that. This minimized the hacking on the locomotive and allowed me to install the PS/2 kit.
Scott, That was done on a Bridgeport mill. Years ago I assembled a fairly complete machine shop to work on my motorcycles. It has come in handy for train projects as well.
If there is room on your engine you could achieve similar results with a Dremel and a steady hand. It would just take a little longer.
Pete
That's awesome Pete. If I have to I'll look around for a machine shop before using the Dremel. I have a PS2 upgrade steam engine I got on the forum where the Dremel was the tool of choice for the modifications. Yuch. The engine I have in mind is too beautiful for that even if the end modification is hidden from view after reassembly.
Thanks again, S
"I really hate TMCC and Railsounds", somewhere above.
Oh, please.
Lots of good suggestions here.
It may seem crazy or heretical converting a conventional engine to TMCC/RS but sometimes, that's the best option, especially if one is particular about what he's looking for. Sometimes you have to pay a premium to get exactly what you want.
I've been looking for a semi-scale steamer in the B&O livery. Black are common, but blue are rare. I'd have love the K-line version from a few years ago, but they are very rare and sell for a premium. I don't really like the looks of Lionel's 2000-05 4-6-2 which is all blue and looks (to me) very plastic-y (if that's a word). I gave serious thought to the LionChief Plus but decided not to embrace a second technology. Not sure that was the right decision, but I have two TMCC command bases and two CAB-1s, so I wasn't sure I wanted to drop $325.
I waiting and finally found a new WBB O27 Hudson for a steal of a deal and can add ERR to it so my all in will be less than the LC+ price. And, I like the WBB looks better.
Different strokes for different folks.
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