Ideas for layout

Ok, now that the plan is getting more defined, I think it's time to check some things. I cleaned up some things for eye candy 3D. But, I returned to the beginning and reviewed the room dimensions again. The desk wall is 114", not 126" and then there is a 32" door or doorway.

The left side from the top is an 8' wall.

So, I am confused about what that corner looks like. Can you help, Charles?

next, I worked on the layout entrance area. It seemed the a pie shaped piece holding the curves would work. However, I made that piece before adding the the left wall and area in question. It will still work, but need to be moved a little.

Charles, I agree with you, there is not enough space to go around the pole on the desk side.

Ok I will explain the situation at hand the top part left side is not a 8 ' wall it is just the amount of room I could use on that side since the other side of 8' has a work bench / storage closet /oil tank/ washing machine ,  I gave my self 8' from the front wall so has to have room from these things, that's why it says "used up area" so I can't go to the left of the 8' so its a pretend wall of space.  I made the mistake of the top wall of being 18' of usable space when it is only 16' since 18' would go int my storage cabinet against the other wall.  Also the left space pass the doorway is again near used up area that can't be used since oil tank is there,  my dilemma of usable space.  It is a basement room on one side of house so its all I got, since other space is all finished with TV etc.

Thanks for the help,  I know it's a pain, that's why I had trouble figuring it out.

Charles, it's all up to what you want, not what we want or what we think will work. If you're not comfortable with going around the pole and don't think there will be enough room for the desk and chair, so be it. I like Jan's version because the yard layout is a little more traditional, but I also like the winding curves, so it's a toss up and both will work. We don't have the luxury of seeing the room, so it's all dependent on your measurements. I have to say we've gone from a 24" deep desk to 20" and now to 18", so I hope one of those is right.

Anyway, I understood that the left side was a faux wall, but I wasn't sure if you had any access at all on that side. Now it sounds like you might be able to reach that upper left corner if you need to. Since you mentioned shelves in the lower right corner though, I'm a little concerned now about the yard extending into that area. You haven't commented on that, so I don't know it it's going to be a problem. The idea was to leave a foot along the bottom wall for you to squeeze in there and reach around the corner if you had too, but if there are shelves there, we might need to adjust the baseboard and yard there????

We also haven't discussed the addition of any spurs that could be added to one or both upper loops for additional storage. That would require additional switches/tracks and would be a little costly, but it's an option.

At any rate, as long as the baseboard is outlined correctly, then I think we have a good design without going around the pole. Where the desk, door, etc., are doesn't really matter as long as the baseboard is where you want it.

Carl didn't change my track configuration, except to define some along the top as overpasses for the 3D view. I like Jan's version of the upper loop because it all connects, so I'll change that in Carl's eye-candy version and rename it to avoid confusion. You haven't said anything about the idea of cutting track, so I'll also give you a version that shows that and let you mull over the idea.

Ok, here's the first version with Carl's eye-candy and Jan's upper loop. I also reduced the height of the door and left/bottom walls to make viewing in 3D a bit easier. I need to eat some breakfast and I'll work on the version with cut track. Are you able to view the Parts List in the trial version of SCARM or do I need to keep posting that too?

 Here's the cut version (cuts in white). I'm not including the file unless you decide to go this route.

Yes I can access the parts list no problem there.  Also, the behind the pole is not enough room so that is a final stat.  The corner shelves are up high they just house some of my trains, they only come out about 3'" off the wall.  I am sending some pics to help Sorry for the mess I have everything apart in the room. #1 is that lower corner wall # 2 pole area # 3 Front wall (16') #4 next to desk /entrance door #5 Side wall  

Wow, you're moving right along and it looks like you've pretty much decided on the configuration of the benchwork. I added a version of where I'd use cut tracks to my earlier post, so let me know if that's something you might do. Does it look like we have a final plan yet???

Yes, I started outlining the benchwork until I came up with the measurement problem.  I do have questions about of cutting of the track though, I have never worked with Atlas since I only has fastrack before.  I am assuming that the cuts are sizes that don't exist and therefore need to be made or "cut" to fit.  Is that an easy process with the Atlas ? any special things that need to be done to make them ?  special tools, parts? connections, components ?  So, if not a big issue in cutting the tracks, it would be a final plan for me.  Thanks ! 

Charles, the cuts are simply to reduce the number of joints (as well as fewer future problems with loose joints). As you can see, there is only 1 place (the switch by the pole) where SCARM can't make the connection using small filler tracks. I believe it will all connect during construction, but may have to be dry-fit before you fasten track to the decking, roadbed, etc.

If you're going to use DCS to control your trains, it needs to have power drops every 10' or 11-12 joints. Even though they're small, all those fillers count as joints. I don't know if TMCC has similar specs, but the goal is a good signal throughout the layout. I'll leave it to others to comment on how easy/hard Atlas track is to cut as I haven't used Atlas yet. Cutting track can be done with a hacksaw, though a rotary tool is better. I believe you have to keep the end pieces of the ties because there is a clip on them. Atlas also sells replacement end clips.

On the Atlas website, a 40" straight track is $25.50, a 10" straight $6.75 and a 1 3/4" fitter $3.65. In some places you need 2 of the 10's and 4 fitters making it cheaper to cut a 40" to size. In other cases you can cut a single 40" to fill 3 spaces that together are less than 40" total. I'm vacillating between Atlas and GarGraves track, but either way I'm going to cut larger pieces to minimize the use of fitters. I just wanted you to know there was the option to cut tracks to length.

Ok,  got it.  So we can do a final plan with what you did .  Thanks

I'm not exactly sure what that means, so here's the file with the cut tracks. Let us know which file you're going to use and if there's anything you want changed. In this version SCARM counts each of the cut tracks individually, so I color-coded those that could be cut from the same 40" straight. For example, the 3 in Green can all be cut from the same track. The same with the 2 Lt Blue, 2 Yellow and 2 Red (may had to turn off the upper layer to see both).

I meant I will use the last final version that you did with all the cuts in it, current file you just shared.  Thank You for all your time on this !  I really don't need to have anything changed.  You have given me what I was looking for on this.  as i know others helped in opinions also.  Thanks for adding the color coded cuts.  On those cuts that are colored and used from the same 40" track are those cut sizes of track shown ? I don't see their values in the drawing.  How do I know what size to cut track spaces to fit track gap ,do I just measure it when I dry fit the configuration ?.  Thanks again !   Charles

Charles, if you select one of the cut track, the status line will show you its size. Or there is a right-click menu option (Length of Selected Section) that will show the same thing. However, since most of them simply replace a mix of smaller tracks, a more accurate measurement is the sum of the tracks they replaced. In this example, the cut track replaced a 10", 5.5" and two 1.75" tracks for a total of 19". Note that the status line shows 18.97".  For these, they should be rounded up/down to the nearest 1/4 (that is .00, .25, .50 or .75).

Since you're not proficient with SCARM and I'm not sure what the trial version lets you do other than delete tracks, I'll go through the design and annotate the cut measurements for you. Don't worry, I've got some time, so it won't be keeping me from anything. Since the 2 levels are not connected, I'll also separate them into separate files that will be under 100 tracks each and remove the color coding. I'll turn on labeling, so the sectional track will show it's size and the cut tracks will show a scissors with a text label to the side showing the size.

Some notes:
-- When you cut tracks, you should cut them slightly larger than needed and use a file or sander to even the cut and gradually reduce them to the right size.
-- Depending on what control system you're going to use, you need to decide where your blocks are going to go. DCS likes to have the center rail isolated every 10' or 11-12 joints with the drop in the middle of each block.
-- You also need to decide where you're going to put your control panel, etc.

Here's what the files would look like:

Here are the 2 files; Upper Level and Main Level. I can change them any way you want, just let me know.

Thanks Dave,  I got the files you attached.  It does show me the size as you said when right click I get the length of selected section, it does  show  it on the bottom as you have shown in red .    I will be using DCS, and plan my control panel to be to the left of that pole. I will have to see where to put the blocks though. Thank You so much for the advice and help.  

You're welcome Charles. Good luck with the build. One of these days, if we stay healthy, I might get to start mine.

Not seasoned yet posted:

Yes, I started outlining the benchwork until I came up with the measurement problem.  I do have questions about of cutting of the track though, I have never worked with Atlas since I only has fastrack before.  I am assuming that the cuts are sizes that don't exist and therefore need to be made or "cut" to fit.  Is that an easy process with the Atlas ? any special things that need to be done to make them ?  special tools, parts? connections, components ?  So, if not a big issue in cutting the tracks, it would be a final plan for me.  Thanks ! 

A chop saw is what I found works best as it cuts both rails in the same spot easily:

https://www.harborfreight.com/...t-off-saw-61204.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/...heel-3-Pc-61198.html

- Greg

Hacksaws & bandsaws. Radial saw, circular saw, & table saw with a chop saw blade. Angle grinder, and die grinders. All are alternates to a quick and even cut, especially if it is a tool with a guide, fence, clamp etc.

  A wire wheel is nice for burrs, and/or few small files, and/or coarse-medium wet dry sandpaper, emery cloth/boards, etc,   Needle nose and duckbill, or a wide set of pliers, maybe two wide jaws, tie colored sharpie/paint/stain, ..........other goodies might be..solder/iron, wire, screws, screwdrivers, tiny zipties, a straight edge/square or three, tape measure, pencil & sharpener, string, Tpins, tacks, and a drafting compass.... or calipers, dividers etc.I measure with one for fast"repeats" in marking stuff. They are not just good circle makers

Thanks men, I do have a 2" mini chop saw which I think will work good and a rotary/dremel  also

You'll need to flip the track around, but a mini chop ought to do it better than a dremel. Unless you have a cable drive or 90° attachment dremel cuts are angled pretty hard and have to have measurements well planed for, cutting long and trimming to size more. You just loose 1/8" to about a 1/4" more than a chop blade getting the ends straight and plumb, so any "exact split measuring" may need another piece of track to cut, maybe increasing costs some.

Ok  Thanks, might have to invest in a mini chop saw as Greg suggestion.